Assuming you pushed the pistons out thru the top it's not uncommon for rings to break on the ridge at the cylinder tops. The oil pump gear can be removed with a slide-hammer or a simple puller, but you sound like you improvised pretty well.
Good to know about the rings. A few I could tell were fresh brakes, but there were a few that were busted into about a dozen pieces and looked like they had been that way. My homemade puller was not pretty, but neither am I so I guess that works out.
Is there anything else that may be hiding from me in the block? I know there is a little something that the fuel pump rod goes through that is pressed in... Does that have to come out before machining? I assume the machine shop will have a way to get the cam bearings out? Are there any more plugs or anything I have to seal out through the sludge?
There are screw-in plugs at the front and rear of the block (above the cam) for the oil galleries. A good machine shop should remove them for clean-out. If your block is dipped for cleaning, your cam bearings will probably be ruined from the chemicals. Make sure that they're removed and replaced.
good to hear you got one that wasn't too stuck. I took apart one '50 8BA that sat outside so long the plastic cover rotted off it, and everything was stuck tight. Wound up cutting the rods with a cut off disk to get the crank out, then using a sledgehammer and a sleeve in the cylinders to get the pistons out. A punch and a 2lb hammer to drive the valve guides into the lifter valley, some with the stubs of the valves still in them (from where I used the cut off disk to cut the valve head off because the valves would NOT move). Weird thing is, after all this pounding to get it apart, the block wasn't cracked. The cylinders will clean up without sleeving, too. Engines like that really make you appreciate the ones that will actually turn over before you start disassembly. good luck with your build. Keith
The crack starts on the rail right around the center support... Runs back about halfway to the rear of the motor then dips down inside. Mirror image on the other side. Good times
Wow-sorry! Well, now go find another block. When I first started with flatheads I got Frank Otto's book and he states that ya might have to look at several before you score a good one for building and a call to Mark Kirby at Motor City Flatheads confirmed what he said, but once you are bit by the flatty bug-ya gota live with the sting! Good luck!
Going to look at a few more next week! Just goes to show that even if it is a strong running motor it can still be cracked and useless.
Some folks say that it is cool to ask for an agreement from the seller to return your money if the block can't be repaired-something to think about!
After a long day at the semi local yard, I pulled home (in the trunk of my Honda civic) a new to me 8ba block...this one has a money back guarantee. Before I even attempt to take the crank pistons and can out I took it over to the machine shop to see what they had to say. From initial inspection I am looking at one piston sleeve, all cylinders bored out, and one new valve seat. The thing that really ticks me off is the motor was rebuilt, bored 60 over then set outside! I will resume this thread if anyone is interested with the progress of this motor.
I am doing the same thing. My little girl and I are working on a 53 flatty. Quality time at its best. Every single one of my valves are rusted to the block. Every single piston is rusted stuck. We WILL make it live again! I started knowing nothing. It is a learning experience to be sure. Keep at it. P.S. Buy stock in penetrating oil!
Got the crank out of the new block and seems like most of the pistons are moving somewhat. I ended up having to cut one of the rods out but beyond that not to many hassles. Looks like 2 cylinders need sleeves. Is it possible to sleeve cylinders that have already had sleeves?
And the saga continues... Got block number two appart and taken to the machine shop. Needed two cylinder sleeves and had already been bored to 80 over so mr machine man said its a no go on that block. Fast forward a few weeks to just about an hour ago and I got a phone call from the machine shop and he found me a magma fluxes crack free original bore 8ba block with my name all over it. Back in the game! My one issue now is that I went and spent my motor money I had saved, on a model a project... With a motor! I think on the long run I will be happier spending the money on the flathead motor than running the sbc 305 that is with the project I just bought. I will keep updating with motor progress as the machine work and reassembly continues if there is any interested.
I'm putting mine together today. I wonder why he thought that .080 was a no go, mine just got bored .125 which is fairly common.
Let me clarify a bit. It was ALREDY 80 over, would have needed to go to 125 just to clean up 6 cylinders, then 2 sleeves on top of that.
The Jalopy Journal
