I have a 29 sedan with a stroked 59ab backed by a 47 truck open drive three speed brand new pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw out bearing with F1 crossmember and pedals. I can not slip the clutch.... It just grips and goes... Makes the car unbearable to drive. Just jerks you around! I've tried adjusting the linkage with no change.... Is it the new pressure plate?! Help please!!! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hard to know what it is without us driving it. but, my guess is that as the clutch starts to grab, then the motor/trans moves in the frame, and it lets the clutch linkage OUT more....so it is like a chain reaction.
Two things come to mind. As F&J says, the motor is moving as the clutch is released causing the jerking. You can put in stabilizer rods on the bell housing or put on a bracket/stop on the water pump mounts. Other thing could be oil or something like it on the clutch plate. Probably less likely but that is what I had on one of mine. Changed out clutch and all is well. Neal
Take a look at this thread.....Lots of good information http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488085
Do you have chatter rods? Is the PP a car PP, or a tractor PP? Evidently some suppliers have been sellong tractor parts instead of car PP's to unsuspecting buyers. The pressure plate won't have any counterweights if it's meant for a tractor.
I think your problem is not the clutch but the linkage you have is reacting to quickly, its ratio is to small giving you instant clutch engagement thus you have a problem. You will not have an issue when the car is rolling 1 to 2 or 3 but from a stop to roll you should have about 3" of pedal travel from complete disengagement to complete engagement. If you have less than that the I would look there first.
Dick it's stock F1 pedal assembly and linkage. Using a 47 truck Trans... Could having the piece that goes from the Trans to the frame not clocked right do it... I have the arm on it at about 10 o'clock... Pointing towards the rear of the car... If it were more straight up would that help? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok you have corresponding parts from the donor car but their position in the new car is not in the exact same location as donor car. First check is to remove the pedal to trans rod. Place the pedal in the top position against the floor board. Now rotate the clutch shaft arm so you can just feel the throw out bearing bumping the pressure plate arms. The pedal to trans rod should be the distance of these two points. Adjust the rod out or make a new rod to match this distance and see if that first impoves the clutch action.
Awesome ill do this the second I get home from work thank you! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I reclocked the cross shaft piece to start out more at 12 o'clock and it made a huge difference. Now I'm getting clutch chatter pretty badly... I have a feeling it is the half inch spacers I put under my motor that is just too much leverage on the mount and is letting it move... Oh well more fine tuning I guess. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Nope still got some bogus clutch pedal arrangement, shoot a picture of what you have and it might be easier to diagnose the issue.
Here are some pics... And no I do not have chatter rods. I may need to make some Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
From what I understand you only need chatter rods when using a torque tube... The 47 truck Trans is open drive Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Chatter rods are a must.if you can't find some, make some.without them the whole motor and trans will move when you push the pedal.
This info would be incorrect. With 1 rod pushing from the stationary frame to the clutch arm you can't help but have some forward movement. Do yourself a favor and install 1 on each side as designed by Ford. The Wizzard
Yes to chatter rods; The 59A has 2 bosses on the lower rear of the block, (one on each side) to accommodate them. They run back to attach to the frame. The engine / trans will move quite a bit when the clutch is engaged if they are not installed. You can easily make a pair of them , if the stock items can't be found. 4TTRUK
I had a vehicle that had the same sort of problems it ended up being that since the slave was mounted to the frame. When you let the clutch out the engine would roll over just a little on the mounts thus letting the clutch out all the way, put the slave on the trans problem solved. I dont think you need chatter rods on an open drive. But some say you do,
The Jalopy Journal
