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Featured Hot Rods Flathead advice needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Desoto291Hemi, Oct 22, 2019.

  1. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    I just got the last important pieces removed before I get it to the shop and have it cleaned and checked.
    I still have to remove the cam bearings and a few odds and end stuff,,,but it is very close to be ready to go.
    Here Is the oil pump drive gear and cover plate,,,they also seem to be in excellent shape.
    I had to get a puller,,,slide hammer,,,,situated in there on my stand.

    I never thought I would get this far,,,you guys keep pulling for me in the next week,,,,hopefully the block will turn out good.

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    One more thing,,,you guys will get a kick out of this.

    Last week when I got the Flathead home,,,my son came home and helped me organize some things and get it situated in place.
    He was smiling real big,,and admiring the new engine.
    Then he looked at me and said,,,,,”Dad,,,I hope you don’t mind me saying this,,,,but as much as I love the Desoto,,,,I think I like the Flathead more.”
    Then ,,as I was smiling back at him I replied,,,,”You know son,,,,I feel the same way “.

    Tommy
     
  3. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 337

    Ziggster
    Member

    Nice work. Had my block done with a 0.060" over which was only 0.020" over the previous 0.040" and it just barely cleaned up one of the cylinders, so don't purchase any pistons until cylinders are cleaned up like I did. Everytime I go to my machinist to check on my engine, I'm always amazed at how small the flathead bore is compared to other engines. It looks like a lawnmower piston. I can see why folks go for a 0.125" over, but for me, it is not about how much power, only nostalgia/authenticity.
     
    Truck64 and Desoto291Hemi like this.
  4. 8flat
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 1,330

    8flat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    HAHA very cool. I just gave my son, age 9, his first ride in my F1 this fall, he was grinning ear to ear the whole time. Good stuff.
     
  5. The best advise I can give you on cam selection is do a lot of research and contact of Pete1 on here, he won't steer you wrong
    upload_2019-11-6_13-21-20.png
     
  6. send me a PM, I have an interesting list of cams I cam share with you
     
  7. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Hey guys,,,,opinions wanted about pistons.

    I am not ready to buy yet,,,but I am checking my options right now.
    The cast ones made by Egge are on Speedway,,,,,for about 330 bucks.
    Then the rings are an additional 70,,,,total 400 bucks for pistons and rings.
    I have nothing against cast,,,,they are very strong and I will not make more power than they can stand. Good cast pistons used to be rated to over 400 horsepower for later engines.

    On Reds headers site,,,they have Ross forged pistons ,,with the rings,,,for 465 bucks.
    I assume shipping will add some more to that?

    That is not that much more for a good forged piston,,and I have always used forged in all my hi po stuff.
    I am leaning towards the Ross!
    Am I wrong,,,,it’s only 65 more dollars?
    I know that the Flathead will take several dollars to complete,,,but it seems like it is not that much more,,,for the quality difference?

    Tommy
     
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,266

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Which is more likely to be a better balanced piston? Which is likely to be lighter?

    Two weeks after your purchase, will you really miss that $65?
     
  9. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Alchemy,,,you are correct Sir!
    However,,,it still feels good to have opinions other than my own.
    I always like to look at both sides of the issue,,,,but I usually already have my mind made up.

    Johnboy,
    Back on post 63,,,you asked about the oil pump.
    Here are some pics and it really is in great shape.
    The gears are almost perfect,,,they have no gall marks,,,,and the housing is the same.
    The top cover has a wear mark,,,it is about .0015 deep.
    The top can be surfaced like new again.
    The cam drive gear is in excellent condition,,,,the gear to end clearance is .021.
    That seems a little high,,,, I am still waiting for my Motors manual to show up,,,it should be here in a couple of days. The specs are usually in there.
    That is why I think the oil gear wore on the cover plate somewhat ,,,excess clearance at the top allowed the gear to ride lower.
    I will have to mic both oil gears too,,,the height,,,,and then cover clearance.
    The pickup is fine,,,gonna replace the screen,,,and the spring hook latch.

    Anything else to look out for ?

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Bearing Burner
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 840

    Bearing Burner
    Member
    from W. MA

    If you found a good Ford Flathead block on the first try you should be buying lottery tickets
     
  11. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Well,,,I am still optimistic about it,,,it looks good so far.
    I am taking it to the shop next week to be checked.
    All I can do is hope and pray for the best.
    If it turns out good,,,then I will buy the tickets,,,Lol!

    Tommy
     
  12. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 4,648

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No .. It's just made different. If it's a welded crank to have a longer stroke then it's a "stroker". Put a Merc stock stroke crank in a Ford is just that.. A Merc in a Ford. Putting in a 4-1/4" stroke welded crank is a real stroker...

    A 400 crank in a 350 Chev is just that too. Now a 3-7/8" or a 3-15/16" in a 350 or 400 block is a stroker...
     
  13. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,085

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

  14. Truckdoctor Andy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2017
    Posts: 854

    Truckdoctor Andy
    Member

    Tommy, I have absolutely no experience in Ford Flatheads, but I have built a ton of engines. Please spend the extra money for the Ross pistons. Engine parts are no place to try and save a couple of sheckles. Build it once and drive the crap out of it.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  15. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Hey guys,
    Just got the rear seal retainer off.
    I was really ginger with this removal.
    I had read some time ago about this piece and that they were fragile.
    So,,,,,no matter what people might think,,,,,we do listen to you when details are being expressed and caution is advised.
    It came off after some persuasion with a large screwdriver under the lip and a rubber hammer.

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Under the rear main I noticed that the oil passageway does not line up at all.
    Since it looks as if it is designed that way,,,,would it be okay to give it a little extra lead in?
    Relieve the oil passage and smooth the entrance somewhat?

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    I removed the cam bearings,,,,they had some wear.
    The rear bearing was worn the worst,,,,it was worn in the direction away from the oil pump drive gear.
    I assume the thrust of the oil pump pushes away from the drive gear ?

    The bearing o.d. Measures 1.930,,,,I assume that is standard size?

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Also,,,does the aftermarket have the oil shields that goes in the tappet chamber ?
    One of mine is crapped out from a rats nest and mice piss that eat it up.
    The other one broke a spring tab when I was removing it.
    I might can repair it,,,I’m not sure yet.
    If at last resort,,,I could fabricate them,,,I just would like to have original type.

    Tommy
     
  19. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,266

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just put a wanted ad in the classifieds if you don't have somebody over some up here. With all the sob stories these guys tell about their cracked blocks, I'd think there are a few million extra tin shields left over.
     
  20. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Alchemy,
    Yeah,,,I was thinking there should be plenty extra laying around.

    Tommy
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2019
  21. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Johnboy,

    That is a good article about the oil pump.
    Some good information in there.
    Thanks.

    DrAndy,
    I understand your concern,,,I have built a lot of engines as well.
    This is my first Flathead,,and I am still learning and listening.
    Don’t fear,,,,,I am gonna go with the Ross parts.
    For the price difference,,,,I can’t refuse to go that route.
    Thanks.

    Tommy
     
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  22. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Okay guys,
    I got a chance to put a good wire brush to the decks a while ago.
    They seem to be in decent shape,,,,,these pics are of the decks between the bolt holes.
    The pass side deck is the worst,,,had some rust pitting built up on that one.
    I think they may be there on it,,,not sure yet,,,,I could have gotten happy with a scraper before.
    The left deck is clean as it can be,,,almost no pitting.
    I am pretty sure it is ready to go and have cleaned and checked for cracks.

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019 at 5:24 PM
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  23. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Here are some pics of the valve seats.
    It looks like it has hardened seats on the intake and the exhaust?
    Am I wrong?
    The other bank looks the same as this.

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

    8flat, Johnboy34 and warbird1 like this.
  24. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 4,373

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Look Mom! Not even any "Part Number" cracks. It's lookin' good so far!
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  25. 59L , 59Z on the bell housing. are best if you can find one.
     
  26. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Here are some pics of the pump after my initial cleaning.
    I am very pleased with its condition,,,,seems to be fine.
    I will check all the clearance and proceed from there.
    If you look in the oil gear chamber,,,in the top,,there is absolutely no wear.

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 12, 2019 at 3:30 PM
  27. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    The shaft has .001 wear on the top and bottom bushing area.
    The bushings themselves have right about.002 wear,,but,,,only in the thrust area from the load.
    Here are pics after I polished the shaft with 400 Emory,,,and the drive gear after Scotchbrite.
    I am very happy with it so far.

    Tommy
     

    Attached Files:

    throughbeingcool likes this.
  28. Man, I hope I get this lucky when I buy mine. Good going so far! Can't wait to watch the reassembly after it gets back from the machine shop.
     
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  29. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Well guys,
    I got the block delivered to the shop just a while ago.
    They are only open Monday through Thursday,,,,so it will be next week before I get any news.
    I am still hoping for a good report,,,,maybe I will get to buy those Lottery tickets after all!

    Tommy
     
  30. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 741

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    Hey Cam,
    Thanks man,,,I appreciate all the encouragement I can get.
    I believe what helped the engine be as nice inside was that it was almost completely enclosed from the elements.
    When I purchased it,,,the carb had still been in place,,the plugs in the heads,,,the distributor in place,,,,everything.
    Except the fuel pump,,,,,it had been removed some time ago.
    When I removed the intake,,it was solid cotton fibers inside the tappet chamber .
    It looked like a quilt had been ripped up and shoved in there.
    It had tunnels for the mice to sleep in ,,,in the cotton.
    I’m sure they stayed warm,,,Lol.
    A few exhaust valves were kind of stuck from moisture that had entered the chambers from some valves being open.
    Still,,,they were not stuck very bad,,,,I was able to remove them with a pry bar and some elbow grease.

    I am gonna post some pics of my rods soon.
    I have some questions for the experts on here.
    Thanks guys for everything.

    Tommy
     

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