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Flathead 8BA HELP

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lifeview2, Mar 6, 2014.

  1. lifeview2
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 5

    lifeview2
    Member

    Hello Everyone!!!!

    I have been reading various post for last few days....WOW wealth of information.

    Ok here goes, I new here to the forum, Also new to the flathead world...just bought a 48 Ford F1, It has an 8BA in it, as that is what is on the head if this is correct for identification?

    I am a recent graduate of Nashville auto diesel college, Collision repair program, I have always been in love with the classics and rods. I work for one of my instructors at RPM Restoration in Clarksville TN. We also have a full machine shop, however our engine guy is a hit and miss when he is around...so I'm asking for some advice here.

    I'm planning to have the engine rebuilt, and mating it to a GM T-5, here is what I am planning, the 304 C.I Scat stroker kit, L100 cam, Now my question is, can I have the stock heads worked? or which edelbrock or offenhouser heads should I get? What about valves? What about lifters? I am planning on stock intake and carb for now...eventually that will be upgraded as well but on a budget currently. and is there anything else I should consider or need to know?

    THANK YOU ALL IN ADVANCE!!!!
    SSG(RET.) Ray Manning
     
  2. Bearing Burner
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 916

    Bearing Burner
    Member
    from W. MA

    Your wasting your money if you plan on running stock intake and carb. I would change intake and heads before investing in a stroker.
     
  3. lifeview2
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 5

    lifeview2
    Member

    Ok, then which intake and carb is recommend? if I'm doing it mite as well do it only once...
     
  4. lifeview2
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 5

    lifeview2
    Member

    Again I have full access to the machine work at little to no cost here, as it is in the restoration shop I work at.
     

  5. jkeesey
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 652

    jkeesey
    Member

    Stroker=big money, cam=still pretty high total, intake and carb=not so much money. I would go heads, intake, carb, and see how she runs. Unless the bottom end is shot anyhow.
     
  6. First order of business I'd get headers and duals from Reds Headers and a mechanical advance distributor from GMC Bubba here on the Hamb. I've been driving my 48 F-1 with that set up for a few years. Welcome aboard, F-1s are awesome no matter what you do with them


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  7. hombres ruin
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,301

    hombres ruin
    Member

    I went with offy heads and offy regular dual manifold but the super dual is a better performance. I went with two Holley 94s as well. I changed out my stock ignition as well you may want to think about that as a performance improvement.
     
  8. lifeview2
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 5

    lifeview2
    Member

    I guess I should of stated that I'm looking for a mild to moderate performance build, as the truck is being built into a restomod, Again never had a flathead before, I'm a big block chevy guy and love my Muscle cars and performance...

    I know that flattys are not high horsepower engines....but with just heads intake and carb I don't think that is the performace I'm going to be happy with...but again I don't know jack about flattys
     
  9. The build you're describing will set you back at least 5-6k and you'll get your doors blown off by a stock 350. Flatheads are cool little motors with a cult following, but not many are taking the checkered flag


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  10. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,634

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you are planning on spending that much money, you would be better of with a smaller supercharged engine. I would you suggest you get one of Joe Abbin's books on "Blown Flatheads". If you are used to "Big Block Chevy's and Muscle Cars", any kind of N/A flathead, no matter how big, will really disappoint you, especially in a vehicle as heavy as a '48 F1.
     
  11. lifeview2
    Joined: Mar 6, 2014
    Posts: 5

    lifeview2
    Member

    I by no means expect to be burning up the quarter mile, Just looking for a nice sounding mild performance motor, Cost is a factor as is with anything, but here is what I have found so far....maybe I'm wrong that is why I'm here asking for help/advice

    304 CI Kit $1700.00
    L100 Cam $200.00
    Edelbrock or Offy heads $ 600.00
    ebelbrock Intake $400.00
    carb $350.00
    Gasket kit $75.00
    Headers $300.00
    Valves????
    Machine work and assembly= Couple cases beer
     
  12. Sorry I wasn't trying to throw a wet blanket on you haha. I've actually got a flathead all rebuilt ready to go in. Mines a milder build. For valves you can actually use small block Chevy valves to save a couple bucks. Lots of info here on the Hamb about springs, etc.


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  13. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,185

    19Fordy
    Member

    Post your question on www.fordbarn.com. Those guys really know their flattys.
     
  14. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 6,002

    daddio211
    Member

    Similar setup in my '50 with Offy heads and intake, but I have the super dual and 97's. The 94's are great but don't work well on the super dual. I don't remember why, something to do with the choke I think. Uncle Max steered me in the right direction, he'll help you too!

    My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
     
  15. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    Go over to the following site and read everything. http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm That will answer 95% of your questions.

    If you need to bore the block, go to 3 5/16. If you want a longer stroke, buy a Merc crank. I would not spend the money on a stroker crank.

    If you want it to be a SBC, buy a SBC. ;) It will never perform like one. You have to like the uniqueness and nostalgia of the flathead to appreciate the idiosyncrasies.

    Unless you have found someone to grind a L-100 cam, it may not be obtainable. If you do know a source for one, please share.

    Neal
     
  16. Just save the beer until the build is done...

    another cost is hardware to assemble, the Bubba dist. recommendation I will give a X2, fuel delivery? stock pump or electric? generator or alternator and new mount for either? and probably many other little things you'll run into that I can't think of right now... oh, oil pump, stock or high performance... see what I mean

    lastly, there are many, many, many posts here on building flatheads and many books on how to do it. research now will pay off dividends down the road. take your time and have fun with it. You would probably be better off getting the help you want doing research as stated above and asking specific questions to get clarification, if not you run the risk of having your post end up like this one...


    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9580117#post9580117
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014
  17. dadsdreamcar
    Joined: Dec 14, 2011
    Posts: 58

    dadsdreamcar
    Member

    I tried to have came tecniques who grinds the L100 do one for me. But it seems he has retired.i have is ce talked to Pete here on the hamb and seems to be a great cam choice as well.
     
  18. LjH
    Joined: Jun 1, 2009
    Posts: 42

    LjH
    Member

    IMHO.....The best bang for the buck is this combination;

    Bore it, cam it, Reds headers, electronic distributor.
    If you want to got deeper into your bank account:
    heads and intake(2x2, 3x2, 390CFM Holley, or 500 Edelbrock.) Heads are classified by clearance (Offenhauser .425 or .400) or chamber size(Edelbrock 76cc etc.) Be sure the machinist knows what he is doing and be prepared to spend some money. I took a 8BA bored it .080, installed a Isky Max1,Offenhauser .425 heads and intake, Edelbrock 500, Red's headers, Mallory Unilite. I did everything except the machine work and short block assembly. It runs great, but I spent. $4962.83. As you know, for that much you can buy a crate motor and have a little change. Would I do it again? Absolutely...
     
  19. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,630

    Slopok
    Member

    You're also gonna need water pumps.
     
  20. also save that stock manifold and carb and use it for the first 500 miles then bolt on any carb combo you want...
     

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