Two issues with the "pumps". IF it has a rear pump, it will be "engaged" and affect how the tow vehicle can do the tow. It actually pulls the tow vehicle down, and makes the towed vehicle squirrely. It does lubricate the transmission and prevent it from being "run dry" so to speak. It's the reason a rear pump transmission can be push started also. IF the towed vehicle only has a front pump, you're asking for trouble, and damaging the transmission. Removing the drive shaft prevents BOTH of these issues, unbolt it and tie it to the side. It's why towing hubs were invented, prevents ALL the issues you risk towing a vehicle. IF it's a SHORT tow, there will probably be no problem either way, don't even consider a long tow, and I'm limiting MY advice to FIVE miles. Now, looking at the car, just hire a tow company with a flatbed to move it. I've had experience where a tow company won't use a wrecker to tow a vehicle that's been sitting for many years claiming the bearings (spindle or axle) may be dry/rusted, and they don't want a "lockup" to happen. I have TWO tow bars and Two sets of towing hubs, that's how I always towed my Bracket Car. I have also made short tows, just to move the car, without using the towing hubs, and when the rear pump, aluminum Powerglide engages, it almost feels like a Positraction unit is going bad, and something is holding the towed vehicle back. Just read what is recommended in a MOTORS MANUAL regarding towing a vehicle. Bottom line, disconnect the driveshaft for ALL flat tows, period. Butch/56sedandelivery.