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Projects Flat-N-Low's '64 C-10 thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flat-N-Low, Jul 3, 2013.

  1. The wife had to work on New Years Day, so I stayed out in the garage all day and worked on the grille surround. I had a full day in just cleaning and prepping the backside, I shot some Rust Reformer on the back, and acid washed the front to get rid of the surface rust.. After that was done, I shot the backside in chassis black. The black paint on the front side was looking shabby as well, so I gave it a light coat of SEM black. I had to paint this area because the core support shows through the grille, and the black paint will now match up.
  2. Because I eliminated my in-cab tank, I wasn't sure how I was going to fill the open hole in the cab. In the past, I would have made a filler panel and welded it in, but because I was trying to keep the original patina, that wasn't an option. I was going through some stuff the other day and came across an old mag wheel cap that measured out perfectly. I needed a way to secure the cap, so I went to Lowes and got the stuff I needed. I bought a 4" expanding pipe plug ($4.99) and a bronze bushing with a 1/4" i.d. and a 3/8" o.d. ($2.91).
    To make the cap fit flush to the cab's filler neck grommet, I milled down the four raised areas inside the cap and opened the 10/32" hole to 1/4-20. The cap is soft, so I just ran the 1/4" tap down the existing hole and used a lot of penetrating oil to lube the tap and flush out the chips. I used a section of the pipe plug as the backing plate, as because it has a bevel on the backside, it'll fit perfectly into the cab grommet.
    I popped the bronze bushing in the center hole and did a test fit using a 1" 1/4-20 bolt and washer.
    Here it is in it's installed position. It's nice and tight, also waterproof!
    slack likes this.
  3. I got some time this week to work on the truck, so I bent up some hard lines to use as wiring conduits on the top of the engine. These hold the A/C and the choke wiring. I used 3/8" line (30" lengths, bought at NAPA), and supported it with 8.5mm plug wire seperators. I bought the separators on eBay for $14.99 for a complete set. They work perfectly when supporting a 3/8 line. I also snuck in the vacuum advance line by sliding a 3/16" line inside the 3/8" and plumbing the ends with the rubber line. The ends of the 3/8 line are capped with rubber caps that I trimmed and drilled the center out for the wire to go through. This keeps water out of the hard line and prevents corrosion.
  4. YJ4000
    Joined: Feb 5, 2009
    Posts: 277


    Thanks for the update!! I really like your attention to detail. I may use your steel line idea.

  5. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,407


    I was wondering what happened to this build very informative. Good to see some updates, nice work.
  6. Rick Barakat
    Joined: Aug 12, 2005
    Posts: 932

    Rick Barakat

    You're attention to detail is fun to watch.
    I look forward to seeing it on Father's day. That's always been a great day to debut a car. Dinner is on me!
  7. Heydon
    Joined: Mar 27, 2016
    Posts: 2


    Watching thread- great work and learnings lots- thanks

    Will your rear wheel/ tyre combo fit under stock rear tubs. Truck is 3 inches lower than stock, SWB.

  8. Yep, the wheel tubs are all stock, but the original bedfloor has been moved up 3 inches. If you're just 3" lower than stock, your original tubs and bedfloor location will work just fine.
  9. Heydon
    Joined: Mar 27, 2016
    Posts: 2


    Thank you- will order the tyres up!

    Looking forward to the next update. :)
  10. Must be out smoking those ET's :D
  11. 70L34
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 254

    from Detroit

    Any updates? Awesome truck.
  12. Jaroy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2017
    Posts: 6


    Any updates on this truck? I’m dying to see the finished project.
  13. He just said he's back on this project in another thread. Hopefully some updates soon!
    porkshop likes this.

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