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Customs Flaming River in a '56 Mopar w/manual box

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GaryS, May 16, 2015.

  1. GaryS
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 90

    GaryS
    Member

    My project is a ’56 Plymouth with a Poly 318 and the original manual steering box that has the integrated, full length shaft…from steering wheel to box.

    My desire is to keep the original steering box, shorten the shaft, and install a Flaming River tilt column with ignition switch. I would also prefer to use either the stock ‘56 steering wheel, or one from a later model Mopar, so there will be a need to adapt either/or to the GM-splined Flaming River column.

    Since I will have to use the universal column, and I don’t have it in hand to experiment, I hope someone who might have already gone through the mix and match issues can give me some ideas about what to expect.

    One concern is the use of a double-D connection to join the box and the column. Since this would not be unique to my Mopar, I would be interested to hear how similar installations worked out on other brands. Were there problems with steering wheel alignment? Would it be better to spline the stock shaft?...or use the double-D on the stock shaft and a splined adapter to the column?

    The original wheel has a ¾”-40 spline, so I doubt Flaming River would be willing to re-spline their part to that odd-ball size, though they might do it to a later Mopar size.
     
  2. Maybe an adaptor that slips over your shortened box shaft. 3/4 to DD. and then a 3/4 to 3/4 coupling and adapt your Chrysler shaft to your flaming river shaft..
     
  3. I did this with a 50 chevy. Kept the old [a 1953] steering box and used a 71 chevy van column.Instead of using a double D configuration, I used the original chevy van rag joint as the shaft alignment was a straight shot. I removed the old 50 chevy steering mast jacket [column] and cut the steering shaft off about 8 inches from the steering box. I bought a seal, using dimiensions, that fit around the steering shaft and down in the steering box to keep dirt out of the gear box. Wrapped wet rags around the steering shaft stub and welded a rag joint receiver to the shaft.
    Used a new rag joint to join the steering shafts together and it worked like a champ!
     
  4. uncle buck
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,399

    uncle buck
    Member

    I doubt it also, as the only thing worse than their bogus "Lifetime Warranty" is their customer service. I think your double D idea is your best bet. I wouldn't use anything FLAMING RIVER though. Borgenson has much better u-joints and actually has customer service.
     
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  5. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 6,995

    George
    Member

    A guy on Power Tour some years ago had one of their columns crap out in 500 miles.
     
  6. GaryS
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 90

    GaryS
    Member

    Hmmm, it looks as if I need to do some more research. I wasn't aware of serious quality issues when I first searched for product reviews, but another search brought up enough negatives to make me reconsider.

    Ididit seems to have better reviews, but now I'm becoming gun shy about the aftermarket. I might be better off looking for a factory column that I could adapt.

    Rocky, doesn't the higher torque required to turn the wheel with a manual box put excessive strain on a rag joint? I had considered that option, but vetoed it for that reason.
     
  7. rag joints abound....picking a mid 60's Dodge truck box up instead a Ford F100 because it has one....
     

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