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Flames, flakes, shimrin base coats

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by abone1930, Nov 4, 2010.

  1. abone1930
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 1,324

    abone1930
    Member

    I looked for old post but couldnt find what I was lookin for :D
    Here is my questions, final stage in sanding on my model A.
    Want to paint it white with a blue metalflake flames and also going to paint the cage flake.
    #1 Can I pull off spraying flake for flames without having to much of a step in a tape edge? Between flake and clear might be pretty thick?
    I was wanting to use .008 flake or .015?

    #2 Has anybody use the House of Kolor Shrimn base, was looking at a Lapis blue, can you notice the flake in it? Was looking at the coarse metallic.
    About what size flake is in it?

    #3 I am spraying the 30 sdr sedan, frame and underneathe, About how many gallons of base and clear will I need?

    #4 Whats a nice white color to go with?
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2010
  2. abone1930
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 1,324

    abone1930
    Member

    So if I change my aviatar, would I get somebody to give me some pointers :D
     
  3. never sprayed that flake or base. to answer the quantity question need to know what material. the clear you will probably use 1.5 gallons sprayable with hvlp.the base is hard to say because of coverage rate. be safe by extra! i wish i could help more
     
  4. autobodyed
    Joined: Mar 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,943

    autobodyed
    Member
    from shelton ct

    let's see if we can help, as far as the frame and underneath, i would spray that first, probably with a single stage urethane. easier and less steps than base clear. yes you will get a heavy edge from the white to the flame edge, what you want to do is spray the whole car white, let it dry, wet sand the entire car without going thru. mask and paint your flames and then clear the entire car.the house of color blue base covers very easy so just put down what you need then flake it. as far as flaking the cage, that could be a real pain in the ass, but will look real cool. for the bottom and the frame i would get 2 qrts single stage, with activator and reducer. for the body i would get depending on the reduction of the basecoat, at least 2 qrts, maybe 3, depending on what color you seal it with. the same with the blue base under the flake, i'll say 2 qrts. should be plenty, the only thing with the roll bar is more of the material is gonna end up in the air than on the roll bar itself. get 3 qrts. to be safe. i would also get gallon of clear and activator. as far as a nice white you have to decide if you want a "holy shit that's a bright white" , or a toned down white like chryslers cool vanilla. hope this helps.
     

  5. abone1930
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 1,324

    abone1930
    Member

    Thanks, that helps Another guy P.M. me saying chevy white from the 60's kinda of had a blueish tint? Does any body know what year? Good ideal, will do the bottom in a single stage, less steps.
    Do they make bigger tips for a Devilbiss touch up gun where I can spray flake through? A standard size gun sucks when youre try to spray a cage in a model a? Primer was hard enough :rolleyes:
     
  6. autobodyed
    Joined: Mar 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,943

    autobodyed
    Member
    from shelton ct

    you can have the white custom tinted by your paint supplier. try 99 ford white, color code YZ. they have a bluer shade variance for that white. not sure about the larger tip for a touch up gun though.
     
  7. abone1930
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 1,324

    abone1930
    Member


    No problem there, body welded to new frame, and skinned and body worked for smoothness:D Look like a unibody know :)
     

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