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fixing paint drips

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by G9mickey, Nov 29, 2005.

  1. G9mickey
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 248


    I just painted my truck over the weekend and I got a few drips in it. I used PPG Delstar DAR acrylic Enamel. Can I color sand the drips out after it dries and if I do that, do I have to re-shoot it or can I just buff it up?
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,150


    It all depends on the color and severity of the drips. Some guys like a razor blade, I like using a "run file". The paint is going to need plenty of dry time before you do anything. At least 72hrs in good heat (over 70deg). You take the file and gently in 1 direction shave the drip down to almost level with the surface leaving some for a sanding with 1000 grit paper. This technique avoids getting the area around the drip too thin and showing shadows. If it's a pastel type color or something bright (orange, yellow) the area "shaved down" by the file will be lighter. Some add'l dry time may bring it into a better match but don't count on it. Proceed to some 2000 grit paper and sand with lots of water and a few drops of liquid soap through a spritzer bottle. The soap is a lubricant as well as an aid to avoiding clogged paper. With Delstar, the finer you sand it the better the end result will be. Take your time and look at it from a logical'll do just fine. Good luck.
  3. Mule Farmer
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,508

    Mule Farmer
    from Holland MI

    I like the razer but use a new one.

  4. Meester P
    Joined: Oct 10, 2002
    Posts: 189

    Meester P

    The highlander pretty much nailed it,but I would add that using the razor method I would shave the run as close as possible then let it dry off again,could well be a bit sticky once you open it up,never sand it if it is still tacky or it will clog the paper and drag the paint,then your in for a lot more work.

  5. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,765

    J'st Wandering

    I'll put in my two cents.

    Hold the razor blade at a 90 degree angle and drag it along the run. It should shave off a little bit each pass. If the paint is dry, it works well.

    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,349

    from New york

    I use a vixen file blade, very gently!!!!!!....Pretend it's your nuts your doing and you'll understand how gently
  7. G9mickey
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 248


    Very cool, Thank you all, I would never have thought of this. Its funny Ive read sooo many Hot Rod Magazine articles on how to paint your car but never how to fix it once you screw it up :)
  8. muffman58
    Joined: Oct 24, 2003
    Posts: 999


    GO to you paint shop and ask for a paint ''NIB'' It looks like a tiny planer. Just shave it across the run until it is even. You must wait 2-3 days at warm weather before you attempt to wet sand acryilic and I hope you put in plenty of hardener. I use a more aggressive grit to begin with [ 600 grit ] than a finer grit as I go.
  9. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,801


    I've heard of them "nibs" but I've never had one or seen one in use. Eastwood sells them, maybe I should get one. Razorblade or just a shitload of wetsanding with a block has always worked for me to take runs out. With acrylic enamel, I've never had a problem with colormatch, usually once it's flat you can't tell.

    Just remember, now you need to wetsand and buff the whole paintjob. If you do just the part where you ran the paint, it's gonna stick out like a boner in sweatpants. Take your time, be careful, you'll be fine.
  10. Barn-core
    Joined: Jan 26, 2004
    Posts: 946


    If you use a razor blade it helps to wrap each end in a layer or two of masking tape so that only the middle of the razor is exposed, (I don't know if that makes sence or not?). That creates a small "buffer" between the razor and your new paint job.
  11. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    from so cal


    So the next time ya find yourself shootin a job, and leave your signiture
    in it try this(only works if the run/sag is still wet and flowin'): take a piece
    of 3/4 masking tape, 12'' or so long with gum side ta the wet sag, just
    touch the crest of the sag with the gum side of the tape. This will just
    remove the heavy part of the sag, and sometimes two or three trys are
    warranted. Now trigger the gun, with just a flow of air in this area ta dry
    out any solvent loiterin' about, next shoot a dry piss coat in the area,
    like blendin' in clear. Next give it time ta flash and reshoot with caution.
    "IF" you have lead a good clean life, and Lady Luck diggs your ass, ya may
    jus' pull this off.

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