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Projects fixing a smashed 31 model A pickup cab.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tb33anda3rd, Mar 17, 2019.

  1. seat back now fits under the wood brace and rests against the back boards like the original. seat is comfortable for me. not sure how we will finish the upholstery off on the shortened cushion yet. IMG_0447.JPG
    IMG_0446.JPG
     
    dwollam, TFoch, mkebaird and 7 others like this.
  2. last project before priming and painting the sub panels and undersides, is fitting the slat wood. I have 3 sizes of strips do to trying to get the most out of the wood I "milled". my plan will be to rip one of the 1 1/2" strips down to 1 1/4" to give me even amounts so I can space them symmetrically . I think I have the math right? IMG_0448.JPG IMG_0451.JPG
     
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  3. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,592

    Slopok
    Member

    Unbelievable, is there anything you can't do???
    Beside painting wheels RED!;)
     
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  4. these will be trimmed to fit, sanded and varnished before installation. IMG_0449.JPG
    IMG_0450.JPG
     
  5. A jack of all trades
     
  6. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,234

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Ted, not enough wood from the killer tree for the bed?
    I wonder how often the Slacker will get asked about servicing someone’s garage door? I suppose the red rims will let them know it’s a real hot rod not a wealthy executive’s luxury car(33 Coupe).


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  7. I am so proud of this relative, unlike some others. He he


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  8. we have two chunks of wood left for the bed. not sure how we will use them, maybe wood bed strips over a steel floor or maybe bed rail type racks. I think what ever we find for a bed will dictate how we go
     
  9. today I removed all the top wood and cut the slats to length. since the new plan is to finish all the wood that will be exposed I removed the paint from the rear beam and sanded it down. I also removed the seat riser and seat back boards. IMG_0452.JPG IMG_0453.JPG
     
  10. I then stood the truck up on it's firewall so I could paint the sills top and bottom. I sanded and used a cup brush to clean it up. I also put spot tacks in the bottom lips of the outer panels I made to attach them to the inner panels. I then cleaned up all the welds and under sides IMG_0454.JPG IMG_0455.JPG IMG_0456.JPG IMG_0457.JPG
     
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  11. after thoroughly cleaning I sprayed a polyurethane 2k frame/chassis blacken the sills and undersides. I then painted the under side of the cowl [inside of original tank] white, which makes it easier to see when working under the dash later. I also paint ed the seat riser, the wood floor board and the pan that goes under the seat. IMG_0457.JPG
    IMG_0458.JPG IMG_0459.JPG IMG_0460.JPG
     
  12. notice how bright the white makes the under side look. really helps and is worth the effort. IMG_0461.JPG
     
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  13. I went through each slat and chose a "good" side to face down. these boards have knots, weird grain and worm holes which should give the truck a little more character. ;) I then sanded all the boards with 180 grit on my DA. I also softened the corners of the slats. with all the fans running in the shop I now have a thorough coating of red oak dust on everything. IMG_0463.JPG IMG_0464.JPG IMG_0465.JPG
     
  14. I removed the wood from the latch posts and sanded and painted the back sides. IMG_0466.JPG IMG_0467.JPG
     
  15. Fun thread to catch up on. Great work saving another old Ford!
     
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  16. anybody know what/how the rear window is attached and sealed?
     
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  17. Rex_A_Lott
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,019

    Rex_A_Lott
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't know how to do it, and neither of the books I have show it either. If nobody comes along soon, I'd suggest going over to the Fordbarn and asking. Good luck.
     
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  18. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,234

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Ted, I thought they were held in like the 32-34. With a steel flange that screws down around the entire window squeezing the glass in a rubber seal that’s goes over the outside edge of said piece of glass?
    [​IMG]
    This looks like my 32s so I think I’m correct.



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  19. Mine is held in like Runnin Shine says. The inside frame pinches the window and gasket.
     
  20. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,398

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They use a frame as shown above. My glass has a rubber channel seal along the edge and just held in place with the frame. I’m sure I got the seal from one of the Model A parts places, but don’t recall as it’s been 33 years since I put it in.


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  21. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,398

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  22. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,362

    nunattax
    Member

    any insulation going in the cab ted? good oppertunity to upgrade with modern safety glass.!
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
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  23. thanks for the replies, seeing the special frame makes sense. I have a Tudor frame and it seamed a questionable way to hold it in. to use the Tudor one I would have to build a wood frame/sill around the opening to hold the glass in place. we need to find the right frame.
    Chris there will be no insulation, just a rugged hot rod truck. the glass will be all new laminate glass. Charlie is having the glass cut this week.
    again thanks for the speedy replies.
     
  24. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,398

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On the corners there are backing pieces of just flat sheet metal at the radii.


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  25. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,290

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Super thread, Ted. Just getting to the forming and replacement of sub frame and small pieces/patch panels in my '27 tub. Your methods are excellent, as much of the available 'repair panels' are crude and ill fitting.
    Thanks for so much detail and many pics! "Slackers", indeed...
     
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  26. tonight I flipped the cab back up right, and put the post wood back in. I then drilled for the hardware that holds it into the post. IMG_0473.JPG IMG_0472.JPG IMG_0474.JPG
     
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  27. after I tightened all the bolts I sanded the exposed wood so it can be varnished. IMG_0475.JPG
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  28. the consensus is to put all the top wood together with glue and screws, THEN varnish it. this is to keep varnish away from the glue joints. I might just try to get some varnish on the end grain first.
    this is what Charlie bought for this project. I never used rustoleum brand spar varnish and look forward to see how it hold up. IMG_0477.JPG
     
  29. edcodesign
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 3,992

    edcodesign
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice progress, great job !
     
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  30. first coat of varnish on the pieces that will not be glued. instructions did not say to thin the first coat. it brushed on fine, a little thinner than the other brand I have used. they recommend 3 coats, applied between 8 and 12 hours apart. if longer than 12 hours it must be sanded before applying the next coat. I plan to sand before the last coat. IMG_0478.JPG IMG_0479.JPG IMG_0481.JPG IMG_0483.JPG
     

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