The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tb33anda3rd, Mar 17, 2019.
Nice sheet metal work on the riser!
^^^^^^ Add me to the group admiring your metal working skills!! Woodwork also!
thanks, I am just a hacker that thinks he can do anything.
living my life; "too stupid to win, to stubborn to quit"
Great work, nice photos, I learned a bunch in 10 minutes...
i'm sure you and your wingman know all about the overdoor panels but just so a reader doesn't run out and buy the first panel he sees, only to find out there are , here goes...
1... '28-'29 coupe... special cpe.? ... drip rail gutters will tilt up towards the back...
2... '28-'29 tudor… like coupe but tilt up more, coupe gutter stops at the qtr. window, tudor almost all the way back...taller roof....
3... '30-'31 tudor… like the '28-'29s but has a triangular mounting tab out front...
4... '30- early '31 truck... almost parallel with the door top...
Hope I did not hi-jack this thread...
but, maybe we need a by year, make and model interchange /doesn't interchange thread, as parts are getting harder to find not wasting time searching out the wrong parts... or worse believing the seller knows what year, model it fits...
over the last 35 or so years I have had more calls wanting to know "what fits" than I did the
"you got one ?" calls...
thanks for the info, not a hi-jack at all. the more info given the better a thread is.
did you find that other '33 standard hood side?
no and looked everywhere... I must have given it away...
pm. me and i'll give you the phone # of the middle man that has scrounged the stuff …
he knows the chebby guy. hope it helps.
just playing around...
looking very well,whats in the backround a roller? maybe
1932 rolls royce 20/25 limo. amazing car!
i see the truck is getting a cat scan lol
Looks great! What does the kitty think?
he thinks it is purrrfect
started to fit the seat frame, I had to cut a couple notches for the body mounts. I measured off the original frame.
once fitted and screwed down, I welded the seat frame up.
the Slacker had cut the 3 boards for the back of the seat last year but had never drilled the holes or cut the angle into the ends. I set up the sliding miter and cut the angles into it.
the holes and mortice have to be drilled perpendicular to the miter I cut, so the bard had to be clamped at that angle.
I set the stop on the drill press so I wouldn't drill too far. once the mortice was in I drilled straight through with a 1/4" bit.
I drilled the holes at the other end of the board and the pilot holes for the seat hooks. I then bolted it into the truck.
the new tires for the bandsaw came in. I cleaned up the wheels and installed them. the machine has/had a couple issues. the blade looks like it had been tracking wrong and was hitting the back shield of the upper pulley and the door of the lower pulley. for some reason the top pulley "head" had been shimmed up with a couple washers. I pulled the washers out and put them on the nut side. this allowed to me to make the final adjustments of the upper pulley and guide bearings. it tracks perfect and doesn't hit anything. now I am having problems with the motor popping the breaker right as it gets up to speed. I tried it a few times and could only get it to stay running once by lifting the motor so the belt would slip, getting it up to full speed then I dropped the motor so the belt tightened and it stayed running. when it did run it cut wood amazing.
Sounds like the "start" capacitor is bad? Love the work you're doing!
Also check ALL of your wiring .. especially IF the plug was replaced.
My bandsaw of questionable history had the neutral & black switched .. also frayed ends screwed flat by screw. Soldering cures that complaint. Double insurance.
Neighbor said polarity had nothing to do with it. Whatever black magic this electrical was .. it no longer pops breakers .. so fugg' that guy.
I do what my meter tells me .. not what a master electrician says. My ignorance is bliss !!
P.S. .. my bandsaw now has pedigree'd questionable history.
I checked the plug and it is on a 20 amp breaker with a short cord. it starts fine but the minute it gets up to speed it pops the breaker. I was told there are flyweights[?] inside the motor that switch on the secondary windings that could be stuck? we need a electrical guy...
Oh gotcha. I interpreted it as not having the umph to get going!
you just have to free up/oil the hollow shaft/flyballs so the repulsion start works properly-make sure the commutator is polished up too
ok, I just took the motor out so I could see what was going on, I found that this motor is a monster. 1.5 hp and running on 115 volts it draws 18 amps. much too close to the 20 amp breaker with the 14 gage cord they had wired it with. I decided to rewire it so I took the switch apart and found it must have been getting warm because the insulation just crumbled. . so the plan is to clean up the switch, paint the switch box, rewire it for 220 using 12 gage[?] wire .
@Bandit Billy you better go over there he needs a master polisher.
that junction box is scary
I don't think it was going to ground. the insulation came apart as I pulled the switch out. pretty cool switch tho that disconnects all three wires.
lucky you are not 220V
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