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Projects fixing a smashed 31 model A pickup cab.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tb33anda3rd, Mar 17, 2019.

  1. Nice sheet metal work on the riser!
     
  2. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 535

    OFT
    Member

    ^^^^^^ Add me to the group admiring your metal working skills!! Woodwork also!
     
  3. thanks, I am just a hacker that thinks he can do anything.
    living my life; "too stupid to win, to stubborn to quit"
     
  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,015

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great work, nice photos, I learned a bunch in 10 minutes...
    i'm sure you and your wingman know all about the overdoor panels but just so a reader doesn't run out and buy the first panel he sees, only to find out there are [4], here goes...
    1... '28-'29 coupe... special cpe.? ... drip rail gutters will tilt up towards the back...
    2... '28-'29 tudor… like coupe but tilt up more, coupe gutter stops at the qtr. window, tudor almost all the way back...taller roof....
    3... '30-'31 tudor… like the '28-'29s but has a triangular mounting tab out front...
    4... '30- early '31 truck... almost parallel with the door top...

    .
    Hope I did not hi-jack this thread...
    but, maybe we need a by year, make and model interchange /doesn't interchange thread, as parts are getting harder to find not wasting time searching out the wrong parts... or worse believing the seller knows what year, model it fits...
    over the last 35 or so years I have had more calls wanting to know "what fits" than I did the
    "you got one ?" calls...
     
  5. thanks for the info, not a hi-jack at all. the more info given the better a thread is.
    did you find that other '33 standard hood side?
     
  6. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,015

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    no and looked everywhere... I must have given it away...
    pm. me and i'll give you the phone # of the middle man that has scrounged the stuff …
    he knows the chebby guy. hope it helps.
     
    Stogy, kidcampbell71 and loudbang like this.
  7. just playing around... IMG_0018.JPG
     
  8. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,247

    nunattax
    Member

    looking very well,whats in the backround a roller? maybe
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. 1932 rolls royce 20/25 limo. amazing car!
     
  10. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,360

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    i see the truck is getting a cat scan lol
     
  11. Looks great! What does the kitty think?
     
  12. ha

    he thinks it is purrrfect
     
    chryslerfan55, Stogy, cactus1 and 3 others like this.
  13. started to fit the seat frame, I had to cut a couple notches for the body mounts. I measured off the original frame. IMG_0074.JPG IMG_0075.JPG IMG_0076.JPG IMG_0077.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55, Stogy, brEad and 6 others like this.
  14. once fitted and screwed down, I welded the seat frame up. IMG_0078.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55, Stogy, brEad and 6 others like this.
  15. the Slacker had cut the 3 boards for the back of the seat last year but had never drilled the holes or cut the angle into the ends. I set up the sliding miter and cut the angles into it. IMG_0079.JPG IMG_0080.JPG IMG_0081.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55, Stogy, brEad and 5 others like this.
  16. the holes and mortice have to be drilled perpendicular to the miter I cut, so the bard had to be clamped at that angle. IMG_0083.JPG IMG_0082.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55, Stogy, brEad and 7 others like this.
  17. I set the stop on the drill press so I wouldn't drill too far. once the mortice was in I drilled straight through with a 1/4" bit. IMG_0084.JPG
    IMG_0085.JPG
     
  18. I drilled the holes at the other end of the board and the pilot holes for the seat hooks. I then bolted it into the truck. IMG_0086.JPG
    IMG_0087.JPG IMG_0088.JPG IMG_0089.JPG IMG_0090.JPG
     
  19. the new tires for the bandsaw came in. I cleaned up the wheels and installed them. the machine has/had a couple issues. the blade looks like it had been tracking wrong and was hitting the back shield of the upper pulley and the door of the lower pulley. for some reason the top pulley "head" had been shimmed up with a couple washers. I pulled the washers out and put them on the nut side. this allowed to me to make the final adjustments of the upper pulley and guide bearings. it tracks perfect and doesn't hit anything. now I am having problems with the motor popping the breaker right as it gets up to speed. I tried it a few times and could only get it to stay running once by lifting the motor so the belt would slip, getting it up to full speed then I dropped the motor so the belt tightened and it stayed running. when it did run it cut wood amazing. IMG_0154.JPG IMG_0153.JPG IMG_0156.JPG IMG_0155.JPG
     
  20. Sounds like the "start" capacitor is bad? Love the work you're doing!
     
  21. Also check ALL of your wiring .. especially IF the plug was replaced.

    My bandsaw of questionable history had the neutral & black switched .. also frayed ends screwed flat by screw. Soldering cures that complaint. Double insurance.

    Neighbor said polarity had nothing to do with it. Whatever black magic this electrical was .. it no longer pops breakers .. so fugg' that guy.

    I do what my meter tells me .. not what a master electrician says. :cool: My ignorance is bliss !!

    P.S. .. my bandsaw now has pedigree'd questionable history. :)
     
  22. I checked the plug and it is on a 20 amp breaker with a short cord. it starts fine but the minute it gets up to speed it pops the breaker. I was told there are flyweights[?] inside the motor that switch on the secondary windings that could be stuck? we need a electrical guy...
     
  23. Oh gotcha. I interpreted it as not having the umph to get going!
     
    loudbang and tb33anda3rd like this.
  24. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 365

    patsurf

    you just have to free up/oil the hollow shaft/flyballs so the repulsion start works properly-make sure the commutator is polished up too
     
  25. ok, I just took the motor out so I could see what was going on, I found that this motor is a monster. 1.5 hp and running on 115 volts it draws 18 amps. much too close to the 20 amp breaker with the 14 gage cord they had wired it with. I decided to rewire it so I took the switch apart and found it must have been getting warm because the insulation just crumbled. . so the plan is to clean up the switch, paint the switch box, rewire it for 220 using 12 gage[?] wire . IMG_0157.JPG IMG_0159.JPG IMG_0160.JPG
     
  26. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 29,063

    loudbang
    Member

    @Bandit Billy you better go over there he needs a master polisher. :rolleyes:
     
  27. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,247

    nunattax
    Member

    that junction box is scary
     
  28. I don't think it was going to ground. the insulation came apart as I pulled the switch out. pretty cool switch tho that disconnects all three wires.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  29. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,247

    nunattax
    Member

    lucky you are not 220V
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.

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