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Projects fixing a smashed 31 model A pickup cab.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tb33anda3rd, Mar 17, 2019.

  1. Charlie wanted to keep the "tunnel" so I trimmed it, added a bolting flange and bolted it to the bottom of the dash. I then made some small pieces of angle to bolt the front of the tunnel to the firewall. IMG_9800.JPG IMG_9801.JPG IMG_9803.JPG IMG_9805.JPG
     
  2. Last edited: Apr 5, 2020
    Stogy, kidcampbell71, Slopok and 2 others like this.
  3. washed my hands, then drilled the holes for the gages for Charlie. IMG_9814.JPG
     
  4. back to the wood work, I put a coat of paint on the back side and bottom of the front header, I also painted the angle iron where the wood touches it. IMG_9842.JPG IMG_9843.JPG
     
  5. I went ahead and put the header in place and put the flat head bolts in. I am using flat washers and regular nuts. IMG_9844.JPG
    IMG_9845.JPG IMG_9846.JPG it also gets one wood screw through the bracket
     
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  6. the post sheet metal gets a nail to hold it to the wood. I cut a head off of one of the nails and used it to "drill" a pilot hole. this is the way a boat/woody car builder I know told me to do it. IMG_9847.JPG IMG_9848.JPG
     
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  7. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,687

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    ^^^^^ It's also a great trick in wood working when doing fine molding.
     
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  8. We use the same nail in the drill trick to install hardwood trim like oak baseboards.
    The truck is coming along nice.

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  9. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    There are two vertical carriage bolts in the front angle iron through the lower part of the header. The header sheet metal has two bumps where they go.


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  10. I noticed a couple square holes about a foot away from the posts. is that the ones you mention?
     
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  11. I welded a little rod between the nuts so if the need to be tightened in the future the nuts won't spin. IMG_9849.JPG
     
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  12. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    That sounds right, have to look later today


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  13. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    They’re 14.75” in, here’s a picture of them in my coupe, bit dark, but measure the same on the pickup. Also the corner brackets go behind the angle. IMG_0946.JPG IMG_0947.JPG


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  15. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    I did a lot of research on those. The outer hole on the angle across has a taper hole for the screw while the bracket does not. When assemble the other way the taper screw doesn’t fit properly and there is also a gap on the bracket.


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  16. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    I could be mistaken for the pickup. My pickup is a late 31 with the steel roof, they have to go on the outside, but the brackets were tapered on the outside as compared to the coupe, should have looked there first. IMG_0949.JPG


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  17. this truck the bracket goes like we have it, like your coupe. you can see the taper on the bracket. there is a bump for clearance of the carriage bolts in the square holes. IMG_9850.JPG IMG_9853.JPG
     
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  18. I started making the board that goes over the driver door. I used my angle finder to get the proper angle against the header, then measured the distance from the back end against the door jamb. I marked the piece and measured the depth of the rabbet. IMG_9854.JPG
    IMG_9855.JPG IMG_9856.JPG IMG_9857.JPG
     
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  19. instead of walking down to the house [300 ft.] to cut this on my wood bandsaw I just cut this with a hack saw. I cut it big and finished the fitting with a rasp. IMG_9858.JPG IMG_9859.JPG
     
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  20. I then traced out the shape of the door and marked the jamb. IMG_9860.JPG
    IMG_9861.JPG IMG_9860.JPG IMG_9861.JPG
     
  21. the wood will have to be trimmed to allow for the thickness of the outer metal. I also think it will have to have a rabbet to keep it flush along the bottom edge. IMG_9862.JPG
    IMG_9863.JPG
     
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  22. with both pieces in place I trimmed the over hang on the front then fitted the filler panel over the windshield. I blasted the panel. I then cut the pieces over the door about a 1/8" away from the line I marked. I will use the sander to get them to the right size . both pieces had almost the exact same profile which leads me to believe we have the truck pretty squared up. IMG_9866.JPG IMG_9867.JPG IMG_9864.JPG IMG_9865.JPG IMG_9868.JPG IMG_9869.JPG
     
    kiwijeff, brad2v, OFT and 8 others like this.
  23. I clamped them together and sanded them to the same shape, then clamped and bolted them in place. started sanding the header to the proper shape. IMG_9870.JPG
    IMG_9871.JPG IMG_9872.JPG
     
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  24. sanded the header and fit the panel over the windshield. the header needed to be sanded to get the correct shape for the visor. once the visor was clamped on it needed to be shaped to square up. it had a bad twist. IMG_9873.JPG IMG_9873.JPG IMG_9874.JPG IMG_9876.JPG
     
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  25. I sanded the pieces over the doors to allow for space for the metal pieces that go over the door. IMG_9877.JPG
     
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  26. I then traced out the old piece that went over the back of the cab and made a template for the corner pieces. then cut them on the bandsaw. IMG_9880.JPG
    IMG_9881.JPG IMG_9882.JPG
     
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  27. with a little sanding I fit the corner pieces. IMG_9883.JPG
    IMG_9884.JPG
     
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  28. I then clamped the piece to mark for the rabbets that will join the three pieces. IMG_9885.JPG IMG_9886.JPG
     
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  29. I took all the pieces out and gave them a coat of paint so they can be put in permanently. I didn't paint the areas I plan to glue. IMG_9887.JPG IMG_9888.JPG
     
    kiwijeff, TFoch, brad2v and 7 others like this.
  30. I am not sure if this is a photo of me after sanding, or getting ready to go grocery shopping. IMG_9875.JPG
     

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