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Technical Fixing a bad Bondo job...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by corvairnut, May 17, 2016.

  1. corvairnut
    Joined: May 17, 2016
    Posts: 4

    corvairnut

    image.jpeg image.jpeg Hi all! I've been a stalker of forums for quite a while, but never joined/posted... until now. I'm glad to join the community; what a great resource!

    So I've got some questions regarding a really poor patch job on a '64 Corvair Monza Coupe. The previous owner executed some kind of patch/Bondo repair on the passenger rear quarter panel with very poor results. As you can hopefully see in the photos, there is a noticeable rectangular bulge near the base of the antenna that really sticks out like a sore thumb.

    Can this possibly be fixed without too much headache? Is it possible that it could just be sanded down and repainted? Would the whole quarter panel need repainting? I wouldn't even begin to attempt to handle this myself; I would refer it to a body/paint shop, but I'm trying to get some opinions (and perhaps also a few estimates as to how much of an expense I might be facing) beforehand.

    Photos are attached... All opinions/thoughts/recommendations are very much appreciated. Thanks!
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,174

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You've got a bodywork problem, and you don't know what's underneath. Any quickie fix you do will probably come back the same later. You'll need to remove all the paint and bondo in that area and see what's underneath causing the problem.

    Grind all the paint and bondo off that area and see if it's a pop riveted patch, or bubbling rust, or who knows what. Then a proper fix will require removing ALL of the rust and buggers, and welding in a solid repair. Then properly hammering it to shape, and a skim coat of filler, then paint.

    Silver paints are very hard to match a spot repair. Hopefully you have the paint code, or better yet some leftover paint from the last job. It will require a skilled painter to match it perfectly.
     
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  3. 35WINDOW
    Joined: Jul 7, 2005
    Posts: 454

    35WINDOW
    Member

    If it were mine, I would grind out all of the Bondo, assess how bad the problem is, and *possibly* replace the damaged Metal, Epoxy Prime it, and then Paint it-hopefully you can match that Paint, and, yes, you would need to blend the Quarter-

    Could it be just sanded down and repainted? Possibly-you need to find out what has been done under that-as far as blending, it's an acquired art (lots of practice)-
     
  4. Been there, what a Pain. My issue was moisture from not having Dry air during prime and paint coats. Yes I have a water trap on the compressor and yes we had a water trap on the line in the wall connection. We did not have a trap at the gun. After several attempts to sand the blisters off we eventually went all the way back to bare metal.
    The Wizzard
     
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  5. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,255

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    Yeah, looks like trouble a-brewing below the surface. Surgery required just to determine what's up.
     
  6. The paint can maybe be matched at a good paint store, they can use that paint matcher tool then mix it accordingly. Maybe it is worth a try if nothing else is going to work out.

    Like my friend @alchemy says, it needs the bondo removed and then it needs to be properly worked. No need to take it to a body shop for that part of it and maybe it is just a dent that can be hammered out. Sometimes you get lucky.
     
    volvobrynk and Martin72 like this.
  7. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,280

    Squablow
    Member

    As mentioned, if you have leftover paint, or at least the paint code, a paint blend job can be done without a complete repaint of the car. You won't know what's under there until you grind it off. Looks to me that there is a second panel right below that one and there's rust in between, pushing up from underneath, that didn't get cut out and repaired properly when the paint job was done. Might not have been noticeable then, but who knows, could be a sloppy rivet patch or mud filling a hole, won't know until you cut into it.

    Cost is going to depend on the paint situation. The grind/weld/bodywork/respray could be done in 8 hours or less I'd bet by someone who knows what they're doing, at 60/hr that's $480, not bad, but if they have to custom mix paint and try a bunch of colors before they get it right, you could double the cost in labor there. Plus the cost of paint.
     
  8. Sporty45
    Joined: Jun 1, 2015
    Posts: 763

    Sporty45
    Member
    from NH Boonies

    Yep, you are definitely going to have to find out whats underneath first, then repair as needed. Good luck, hope it isn't too bad under there! Oh, and nice looking car. :cool:
     
  9. Alchemy said it perfectly
     
  10. Most of the DuPont automotive paint stores have a camera that they use to take a photo of your cars paint.then plug it into their computer for an exact paint match,,,You will need something like this to match that paint...also if you go back to your profile page and complete your information,there might be a fellow HAMBer that lives near you to help guide you thru the repair...
     
  11. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 2,060

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice Corvair! We bought '62 Monza a few years ago for the wife and it's definitely one of the most fun cars I've ever owned.
    You need to go over the entire car carefully and see if there are other areas with the same issues. If there are, then you have to ask yourself the big question; am I ready to step up and strip, repair and repaint this car? or pay someone to do it? If not, then I say just drive and enjoy it as it is instead of doing a spot repair that will most likely show and drive you just as crazy.
    If that's the only bad spot, the answers are posted above. Just be aware that heavy metallics like yours are very hard to spot in successfully. Good luck!
    Checkout the "Coolvairs" thread if you haven't already.
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  12. corvairnut
    Joined: May 17, 2016
    Posts: 4

    corvairnut

    All I can say is, "WOW!"...

    I can't express enough appreciation to each of you for your insight and advice. What a great community! Hopefully at some point I can return the favor.

    With that said, I'm left to debate whether I should tread down the dark path of uncertainty to unveil this mess and fix it properly... or as bchctybob suggested, "just drive it and enjoy it as it is".

    Thanks again, everyone! I'll post photos if I decide to move ahead with the repair.
     
  13. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    If you drive it as is for a while and the problem is rust pushing out you will find it out as it will keep getting worse.Likely wont be any harder to fix than it would now.
     
  14. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,380

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cant you get a light and a mirror and look at it from the back side?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    5window likes this.
  15. when i first saw the picture i thought it was my old car. mine was a '61. the color i used was a 1990 honda champagne gold which was a pretty close match to the original.
    keep us informed about your findings.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  16. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 659

    finn
    Member

    Unless my memory is failing me, I don't recall that area to be one that is prone to corrode on the Corvair. Most around here in the salt belt died from terminal front fender and floor pan issues. What does it look like from inside the engine compartment?

    I think I'd let it go a little further before digging into it and creating a mess.

    If the pans are bad, or have been "repaired", then maybe I'd dig into it further.
     
  17. You should check all of the other panels with a magnet.......bondo use is a disease
     
  18. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 5,473

    anthony myrick
    Member

    looks like where holes might have been drilled to fix a dent
    that's a common buckle area when bumped from behind
     
  19. xpletiv
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 938

    xpletiv
    Member
    from chiburbs

    I, too, was going to ask if you could see it from underneath inside.
     
  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 45,308

    squirrel
    Member

    It looks like a can of worms....I'd leave it alone.
     
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  21. corvairnut
    Joined: May 17, 2016
    Posts: 4

    corvairnut

    image.jpeg Unfortunately, there is no way to see the backside of the patch. It's completely "hidden" somewhere above the wheel well and forward of the engine compartment. I've attached another photo from a different angle... I'm doubtful it does much to change the discussion, however. The floor-pans, underbody, and rockers are solid. I think this spot was more damage-related rather than rust-related. The rest of the car seems to pass the magnet test except for an edge under the lower engine vent near the passenger-side exhaust It's very low and mostly unnoticeable.

    My OCD-self is very tempted to strip this down and have it done the right way. Something about having such an obvious (at least to me) rectangular patch along the rear quarter makes me cringe. I even find myself positioning/parking the car so the passenger side gets less exposure to passers-by.
     
  22. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,899

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Do it once, do it right as everyone has stated. Otherwise you later will regret not doing it right this time around as it will come back and bite you and you don't want that!
     
  23. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,622

    thirtytwo
    Member

    You can't feel up there on the backside? Looks like the rectangle in the paint goes back to the trunk opening?

    If its a solid car I might be suspect that the rear has been clipped from a accident
     
  24. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,696

    indyjps
    Member

    I'd sell the car unless you have sentimental attachment.

    May sound harsh, but it really looks like a riveted patch to me. If that's the case you will find a lot of issues once you start grinding paint, it will be a large investment.
     
  25. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,444

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There's a reason they call it "cancer"-- if you don't get it ALL out, then re-do it properly, you'll have this as a recurring problem that will only get WORSE.
    Unfortunately, no easy fix- labor intensive and a tough color to blend in.
    Good luck with it whatever you decide.
     
  26. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 45,308

    squirrel
    Member

    A Corvair is the wrong car for an OCD guy to own. You'll spend way way way more money on it than it will ever be worth.
     
  27. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,380

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Treat it like a sore pecker and don't screw with it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 3,661

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    put a V8 in it and have some fun v8 corvair.jpg


    that's what I did with mine

    corvair 2.jpg

    Sent from my etch a sketch using a pencil
     
    squirrel likes this.
  29. chevy57dude
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 5,406

    chevy57dude
    Member

    Would you keep the antenna? Or fill the hole? My Chevelle had an AM radio with the antenna on the rear quarter. IIRC, FM equipped cars had the antenna on the front fender.
    Got a nice black steering wheel and a'65 service book around here. PM if interested!
     
  30. Can you see the back side of the damaged area by possibly removing the rear seat back?
     

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