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Technical First time to shoot base coat/clear coat....questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 41woodie, Sep 1, 2017.

  1. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,095


    As stated I'm getting ready to paint the chin apron, the piece that goes between the front fenders and below the grill on my '41 Ford. The car is low in front so this piece is not visible without getting on your hands & knees. It is also very vulnerable to road rash and curb kisses so repainting is nearly an annual task.

    I've never shot BC/CC so I need a bit of coaching. First, does it require a special type of primer? If so, any specific brand recommendations? Second, I will wet sand the primer prior to shooting the BC to give a good smooth foundation, from what I've read I will need to shoot 3-4 coats of BC and wet sand between coats....Yes, No?

    When I've put down the last coat of BC do I wet sand it and then start applying CC to a sanded, dry surface or do I shoot the CC over a tacky surface? I believe I'll need 2-4 coats of CC should these also be wet sanded between coats?

    Any advice that you think would help a novice would be appreciated.
  2. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,721

    john worden
    from iowa

    Read the technical data sheet before doing anything.
    BC to hiding. Sanding not required unless flaws exist and then recoat after sanding.
    Not necessary to sand between coats of clear unless you want to for perfect finish.
    henryj1951 likes this.
  3. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,304

    from USA

    ^ is correct as usual....
  4. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,974


    Do a light coat of base, drink one beer. Do another base coat, drink another beer. One more coat of base if you think it needs it.

    Then, while you are cleaning your gun and mixing your clear, you need one more beer, maybe two if you drink fast. Shoot your first clear coat, let it tack while you drink one more beer. One more coat, slightly heavy, but not too heavy. If it needs one more coat, do it, but don't do another coat just because you have more material.

    Now, resist the temptation to touch anything until morning.

    If you don't drink beer, do two or three coats of base, wait ten minutes between coats, wait fifteen or twenty before you do clear, then two or three coats of clear waiting ten in between.

    Good luck and post lots of pics.

    Los_Control likes this.

  5. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,095


    John, you make it sound deceptively easy that's not usually how my life works. Abone, I appreciate your suggestions about time between coats, I'm not a great drinker and using your timing method I would have to adjust my time to allow multiple head calls and trying to find my ass with a flashlight.
    Legends47 and redwilly1949 like this.
  6. did you buy the paint already? if not get it made in straight color so it makes it easier if your doing it annually.
  7. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,095


    Jeez you guys are really making me feel dumb....straight color?? The only thing I can come up with is a color without pearl, metallic etc?? Am I close?
  8. what color is it?
    simpsonrl likes this.
  9. dogwalkin
    Joined: Jan 17, 2013
    Posts: 91

    from tn

  10. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,095


    1988 Isuzu Cavalier Blue, no metallic just color. Check the avatar
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,280


    What he meant was direct gloss color, or what we all call single stage. If it's a solid color (black, blue, even white) it's not a bad way to go for a couple reasons. Durability is the 1st reason. As that part gets a bit of road rash over time it's less likely to show. If it's a dark color, say a dark blue with clear on it, all the minor rash will show as white dots because the clear turns white as it scars (think of minor scratches on modern cars that are white). If it's black you might even want to use a black primer in case a good knock happens to chip it. Another case for direct gloss is ease of touch up. You can brush some catalyzed paint in the chip, ignore it for a couple days (or even weeks), then later on lightly sand it out and it's gone.

    I see above you answered, a medium/dark blue, yes? You're right, that part is nose 1st to road hazards. Single stage material might be a win. You can tint primer. Get it as dark blue as you can and you might not visit that part for quite some time. Like many others here I'm willing to answer or assist. I'm a PPG fan, been using it for over 40 years, but there's several good quality materials out there. Only thing I can add on that thinking is that I'd avoid mail order material as long as you have a body shop supply within reasonable travel distance. Last bit of advice, I wouldn't wet sand the primer unless you have a couple coats of epoxy under your surfacing primer. You can dry sand to about 600 and have a nice surface to paint over. Even 400 dry is just fine. Why no wet sanding? Primer by nature is somewhat porous. Urethane primers may let that water in but not let it out. Not worth the risk in my opinion. Good luck and enjoy the challenge.
    john worden likes this.
  12. Bill Rinaldi
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,856

    Bill Rinaldi

    It's a great piece to learn on. If it's still on the car, raise the car up enough to not have to contort your self to paint it. These guys have given you good advice, except in my case I drink beer pretty fast, not much, just fast. BC/CC is pretty forgiving especially in small doses. You will do just fine. Especially because of the chin piece location, even if you put a run in it, or a little blemish in it---Nobody will ever know but you, even then, you have learned enough to shallow up your learning curve. Try it, you'll like it!! Bill
  13. sorry, we call it straight color around here but yes direct gloss, single stage that would be much better in that case with that color.
  14. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,762


    A short was said, as you spray the be, you can sand a run, then shoot a little color over where you sanded. When you get to the cc, same thing. You can sand the run, then shoot more cc. BUT- if you are sanding the cc, DO NOT go thru the cc into the bc. Kind of like shooting lacquer. I did my truck, first time to shoot back/cc, had done 6 or 7 single stage paint jobs, turned out pretty good, I think.

    Attached Files:

  15. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,095


    Wow, this is challenging, I quit learning about paint back when lacquer and enamel were the choices. So Direct Gloss (straight color) is paint that provides the color, coverage and gloss all in one product. BC/CC has two operations, the BC provides the color and coverage and the CC provides the gloss and depth. Yes?
    I appreciate the time you guys are taking to answer novice questions, it's greatly appreciated
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  16. fordor41
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 958


    rustoleum makes a spray- on coating that protects the paint. it can be peeled off to renew and is clear
  17. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 715


    The beer between each coat comment reminded me of my friend who taught me how to paint. Be sure to read the (SDS) Safety Data Sheet as they will advise of the hazards of the product and how to protect yourself using the material. Hardeners in paints are typical isocyanate based and can be dangerous to ones health if not taking the proper safety precautions.

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