The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by baspinall, Apr 24, 2018.
B pillar patch looks good. Like you said, little steps
My Machine of choice as well. This last weekend I needed to weld down the frame to the frame table to cut out some rust without destroying the nice frame. I took the welder off the auto selection for the first time and dialed in my temp and speed. I am using 230v on mine and I liked the result. My working speed is just not fast enough for the auto selector it seems.
On the small cuts question, I recently picked up a little dual voltage plasma cutter. I need some practice with it but I think this tool is going to be a great add to my garage.
I have switched to the 230V. What a difference ! I ad a plasma for a bit and sold it. I picked it up cheap and sold it for a profit Didn't find myself using it to often.
Thanks - Aaron
OK well from the much appreciated advice here on the HAMB I got my sub rails down on wood blocks on my frame. Now to piece together the body. Centering my wheel well on one panel it's looking like I am going to have to do major surgery on my firewall and upper gas tank firewall portion. This frame was supposed to have been stretched 4 inches up front but I don't see it unless it's in front of the engine. I have seen many recessed firewalls but not many folks having to do anything the the upper portion in front of the gas tank. Will know better as I go. I know everyone says work front to back setting the cowl first. Is there a solid reason for this?
Is the frame set up for a spring behind axle, or a spring over axle? If it's set up for a spring over axle, you axle/wheel wells would be around four inches further back, meaning your firewall would be around 4 inches back.
Aaron the frame is set up for a spring behind.
What's your wheelbase measurement? Mine is 103".
Supposed to be 106" Will measure it tomorrow, The frame is from Riley's way back when . Here are the specs that it was supposed to be. But I'm finding out some of those may not be so. Like the rear Z. It's 10 inches not 8.
4" Z in front (in the toe board)8" Z in rear.
Set up for buggy spring rear and Pete and Jake's ladder bars.
Very simple and easy rear suspension.
Front has stamped Model A style cross member.
Some spec's,.120 wall 2"x4" main rails.
Model A style front horns,front rails from firewall forward tapered like original.
106" wheelbase same as a 1932 Ford.
The stretch is between the front cross member and firewall,
couple extra inches there really helps in fitting the engine.
Just measured, yes my wheel base is 106. Today I will be working on getting my cowl in order. The sides I have a repo's. The seam against the A pillar is OK but not great. If I have them flush on the bottom and level with the sub rails they seem to be to tall, meaning they rise above the tab on the A pillar that the tank sits on. Should be even here correct? Seems to me that top should be pie cut and lowered but that will mess with the fitment of the tank. I guess I could also trim the difference off the bottom edge and raise them.
When I did mine, I mounted the tank and modified the side panels to fit. I looked at my Coupe and yes, the side panels are flush with the bottom.
Why don't you blast all the sections now while it's apart? That way any unknown pin holes will be found and you will have clean metal to weld against? I always get it clean and some kind of protective paint on before putting it together and trapping rust.
When you bolt your rear roof sections on/together, put a good (3M) seam sealer in the joint.
Well I spent about a half a day messing with these repo cowl sides. Got them pretty close I think. They are really old reproduction ones. They also have a million holes on all the flanges from someone before me. From what I have been reading the newer ones are a bit better fit.
Not sure but I may also be fighting A pillars that are a bit tweaked
Aaron - Thanks
Corn Fed - Reason it isn't blasted is $$$. I had the roof, rear window & side windows done and ran out of dough. Just trying to do what I can for now until I save up more. My quarter panels, A pillars, gas tank and cowl would run me about another 5 to 6 hundred bucks from the guy I used. I tried using a siphon blaster I have but DAMN it's slow! I spent more time F'ing around with it getting it to flow good in this 90 degree humid soup weather we are having than getting anything done. My plan it to have it done at some point before the final assembly though so as not to trap rust like you mention.
Started to gut the gas tank today. Drilled the spot welds and removed the upper firewall and got the bulk of the bottom side of the tank cut out. I am retaining my original dash as of now. Just need to do a final trim and clean up the cuts now. Now that the upper firewall is out I can also work on the notch I will need to clear my distributor cap.
Good job that you didn’t cut away too much structure. I did and my tank top/cowl changed shape. Not a lot. Just a little and I didn’t figure it out until trying to install the welting.
Think that will work.
Iowa - I probably would have done the same. I watched Aaron 29 AV8 videos and read he left the lip for structure. Dodged one of the multitude of bullets that are flying around lol.
That’s almost exactly how I cut mine, I need to trim the edge near the firewall a little more to clear my hanging pedals but other wise seems to be working out well
Worked on getting the other B pillar in order today. Made a patch and rolled the indent in it. Welding it in was a bit trying. Chasing blow outs. Turned the MIG down a tad and made better progress. Learning as I go.
So after a couple days of messing with these old aftermarket cowl side panels I gave up and ordered two from Brookville. WHAT a difference in fit! These are a much much nicer fit. Still chugging along.
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