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Projects First time build ........ aka Beaver Creek Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by baspinall, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,013

    Aaron D.
    Member

    B pillar patch looks good. Like you said, little steps:)
     
  2. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 7,966

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My Machine of choice as well. This last weekend I needed to weld down the frame to the frame table to cut out some rust without destroying the nice frame. I took the welder off the auto selection for the first time and dialed in my temp and speed. I am using 230v on mine and I liked the result. My working speed is just not fast enough for the auto selector it seems.

    On the small cuts question, I recently picked up a little dual voltage plasma cutter. I need some practice with it but I think this tool is going to be a great add to my garage.
     
  3. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    I have switched to the 230V. What a difference ! I ad a plasma for a bit and sold it. I picked it up cheap and sold it for a profit :) Didn't find myself using it to often.
    Thanks - Aaron
     
  4. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    OK well from the much appreciated advice here on the HAMB I got my sub rails down on wood blocks on my frame. Now to piece together the body. Centering my wheel well on one panel it's looking like I am going to have to do major surgery on my firewall and upper gas tank firewall portion. This frame was supposed to have been stretched 4 inches up front but I don't see it unless it's in front of the engine. I have seen many recessed firewalls but not many folks having to do anything the the upper portion in front of the gas tank. Will know better as I go. I know everyone says work front to back setting the cowl first. Is there a solid reason for this?
     

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    Stock Racer and kidcampbell71 like this.
  5. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,013

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Is the frame set up for a spring behind axle, or a spring over axle? If it's set up for a spring over axle, you axle/wheel wells would be around four inches further back, meaning your firewall would be around 4 inches back.
     
  6. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Aaron the frame is set up for a spring behind.
     
  7. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,013

    Aaron D.
    Member

    What's your wheelbase measurement? Mine is 103".
     
  8. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Supposed to be 106" Will measure it tomorrow, The frame is from Riley's way back when . Here are the specs that it was supposed to be. But I'm finding out some of those may not be so. Like the rear Z. It's 10 inches not 8.

    4" Z in front (in the toe board)8" Z in rear.
    Set up for buggy spring rear and Pete and Jake's ladder bars.
    Very simple and easy rear suspension.
    Front has stamped Model A style cross member.

    Some spec's,.120 wall 2"x4" main rails.
    Model A style front horns,front rails from firewall forward tapered like original.
    106" wheelbase same as a 1932 Ford.
    The stretch is between the front cross member and firewall,
    couple extra inches there really helps in fitting the engine.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2019
  9. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Just measured, yes my wheel base is 106. Today I will be working on getting my cowl in order. The sides I have a repo's. The seam against the A pillar is OK but not great. If I have them flush on the bottom and level with the sub rails they seem to be to tall, meaning they rise above the tab on the A pillar that the tank sits on. Should be even here correct? Seems to me that top should be pie cut and lowered but that will mess with the fitment of the tank. I guess I could also trim the difference off the bottom edge and raise them.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,013

    Aaron D.
    Member

    When I did mine, I mounted the tank and modified the side panels to fit. I looked at my Coupe and yes, the side panels are flush with the bottom.
     
    baspinall likes this.
  11. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,011

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Why don't you blast all the sections now while it's apart? That way any unknown pin holes will be found and you will have clean metal to weld against? I always get it clean and some kind of protective paint on before putting it together and trapping rust.
    When you bolt your rear roof sections on/together, put a good (3M) seam sealer in the joint.
     
  12. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Well I spent about a half a day messing with these repo cowl sides. Got them pretty close I think. They are really old reproduction ones. They also have a million holes on all the flanges from someone before me. From what I have been reading the newer ones are a bit better fit.
    Not sure but I may also be fighting A pillars that are a bit tweaked

    Aaron - Thanks

    Corn Fed - Reason it isn't blasted is $$$. I had the roof, rear window & side windows done and ran out of dough. Just trying to do what I can for now until I save up more. My quarter panels, A pillars, gas tank and cowl would run me about another 5 to 6 hundred bucks from the guy I used. I tried using a siphon blaster I have but DAMN it's slow! I spent more time F'ing around with it getting it to flow good in this 90 degree humid soup weather we are having than getting anything done. My plan it to have it done at some point before the final assembly though so as not to trap rust like you mention.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2019
  13. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Started to gut the gas tank today. Drilled the spot welds and removed the upper firewall and got the bulk of the bottom side of the tank cut out. I am retaining my original dash as of now. Just need to do a final trim and clean up the cuts now. Now that the upper firewall is out I can also work on the notch I will need to clear my distributor cap.
     

    Attached Files:

    deluxester likes this.
  14. Good job that you didn’t cut away too much structure. I did and my tank top/cowl changed shape. Not a lot. Just a little and I didn’t figure it out until trying to install the welting.


    Walt
    Outsiders CC
     
  15. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Think that will work.
     

    Attached Files:

    Shadow Creek and deluxester like this.
  16. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Iowa - I probably would have done the same. I watched Aaron 29 AV8 videos and read he left the lip for structure. Dodged one of the multitude of bullets that are flying around lol.
     
  17. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,975

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    That’s almost exactly how I cut mine, I need to trim the edge near the firewall a little more to clear my hanging pedals but other wise seems to be working out well
     
    baspinall likes this.
  18. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Worked on getting the other B pillar in order today. Made a patch and rolled the indent in it. Welding it in was a bit trying. Chasing blow outs. Turned the MIG down a tad and made better progress. Learning as I go.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    So after a couple days of messing with these old aftermarket cowl side panels I gave up and ordered two from Brookville. WHAT a difference in fit! These are a much much nicer fit. Still chugging along.
     

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