Projects First time build ........ aka Beaver Creek Coupe

Get to know your welder,
Some have a cold start ramp up on voltage. If it has that it will be cold at the first pull of the trigger then ramp up quickly. That's useful for filling holes and such by tapping the trigger, but will quickly blow a hole once the ramp up happens if your still holding the trigger. The cold start ramp up needs a higher setting for tacking too.

 

I like .030" as it supplies more filler... IMO... the wire burns hottest away from the nozzle, I try and keep my past weld in that spot while I work my way along the gap, branch to the sides but quickly cheat back to the safety of the past weld...
I have tacked some scrap strips of .030" lengthwise down into the gap and worked from the loose end... they kind of held up the molten weld and worked as filler... hope that doesn't give flop heartburn ?

 

Did you pick up a liner and tips for .023?

An air saw is nice to have in the box to get into tight spots, sometimes even the small diameter cut off wheels dont fit. Another approach is to drill the corners of your patch area with a large diameter bit and put radii in the patch corners. You will maintain metal thickness and not have the cut off wheel "overcuts".

 

Dang! Nope. I know the tips but didn't know I had to change the liner?

 

As far as the tooling goes. Don't think my 20 Gallon Craftsman will do the job with the air tools? I know it has issues with the little air sander I have. I'll give a look at the air/elec. saws.

 

you could probably use an air die grinder, it would just be slow moving and would have to let the compressor catch up, but if there are smaller electric ones that are maneuverable/ not too clumsy, they will come in handy for smaller cut off wheels, roloc sanding pads, etc.
I typically use .030 wire for most everything I do, sheet metal and the thicker stuff, it works well for me and is what I am used to and I don't have to bother swapping out wire. I might have missed what welder you have, but check with the drive roller/wheel inside where you load the wire, there should be compatible wire sizes on there with accompanying grooves for the wire to sit in, as you may need to pick up a new one of those as well if stepping down in sizes.
Definitely pick up some small strong magnets, I like the small circular ones as opposed to the big red arrow ones usually, but both are handy, and the arrow ones are good for making stuff when you need perpendicular/ angles, etc. the small butt joint/ panel intergrip clamps,( I know they atleast sell them at harbor freight) are good if you can access the backside to get the block out, but the thickness of part of the clamp can make for a larger gap and that can be a pain. I use a lot of clecos and cleco style side grips, nice and quick and hold strong.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/sheetholder.php?clickkey=3620

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/clamps1.php?recfer=4430

Something I like doing for butt joints on sheet metal, are making short little links to cleco pin together, takes a little longer, but is really handy for hard to access places, not the best picture, but this is the idea. just little pieces of scrap with holes drilled in them

 

The welder I'm using is a Miller 211

 

That's the machine I primarily use, are you using the autoset feature on it? i dont generally use it, but I've noticed that when using that instead of dialing it in by hand, it runs a little hot and fast for my liking on sheet metal, especially old contaminated/rusty sheet metal, could be part of what is causing you to burn through.

 

Ive been trying both. Yes it does seem hot on auto. On regular I would dial down the voltage a tad correct?

 

I want to say for sheet metal, I usually have the voltage knob set to around 2.75 give or take a 1/4, and the wire speed at or a little under 30 or so but i'm always playing around a little, and gas flow around 15. this is also for about 18gauge sheet metal, thinner stuff, turn both down a hair.

 

http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/03/the-101-how-to-weld/

 

What i use for a copper backer is a piece of 1/2 copper pipe,same stuff they use for household water lines,it is about a foot long,on one end i pound it flat like a spoon?,that way i have a handle to hold it in place when im trying to fill holes,works good and when it is all used up i just make another one.I sometimes use the welding magnets to hold a patch in place,they are available at places like harbor freight pretty cheap,they are all kinds of shapes,some bigger then others,but they will all do the job. Patching old cars is not easy so keep trying and dont give up,maybe walk away for a bit,then try it again. Harvey

 

I think you only need change the tip , liner should be fine . Question on magnets . I heard the magnet affects the weld ?? Maybe only on tig ?? Restoration friend only used .030 and all his welds look good . My son switched out the .023 for .030 and likes it better , less blowouts .

 

I notice if i get a little too close( within 1/4" or so) to some of the really strong magnets, it will sputter a bit and feels like its grabbing or something, i notice it less with the big red arrow ones sine they are weaker.

 

The magnet can pull your puddle towards it and distort your weld

I’ve heard not to put a magnet between the torch and ground, don’t know why and never tried it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I sheared some 18 ga. copper and made a bunch of these with different handles to reach in behind panels.

 

YAAAAAAAA!!!! I posted a picture!!!!!!!!

 

Great video , this guy is so calm and relaxed . Makes you want to dive right in it looks so simple ( AMD tech guy I think )

 

Harbor Freight sells a copper paddle for less than 10 bucks. I have been changing back and forth between .023 wire and .030 wire for 20 years without changing a liner . Just the tips. Maybe I am doing it wrong ?
I always coat the back side of the patch and the surrounding area with weld through primer available at Napa auto parts. Keeps future corrosion from rusting my repair.

 

This works well, the reversible feature is nice, it's hella noisy.
https://www.eastwood.com/4-in-air-cut-off-tool-w-forward-and-reverse.html

 

OK so on my other A pillar the bottom portion is really bad. I bought a donor pillar that is tweaked at the top. Would you guys cut the donor as low as needed or use as much of it as possible? Or does it even matter? I was thinking just cutting the bottom portion would be best. Retaining the structure of the original.

 

If it were me, I would replace just what's below the hinge.
Aaron

 

Aron, that's what I was thinking.

 

I'm doing the same thing with my b pillar, but I don't have replacement so have to make it

 

Mechman_22 - I'll be making the bottoms of my B Pillars as well.

 

Update - I cut my donor A pillar today. I have a question about removing the corner/triangle sub frame bracket. Drilled out the rivets and spot welds but still can't get this bracket out? I don't want to bend this piece up trying to get it out but there is a lot of rust and dirt behind the bracket. Went at it a bit with a chisel and hammer and it not budging. Would like to clean it up before I weld it to the pillar.

 

Well I got that sucker out finally!

 

Well I received some of my roof tin back from the media blaster the other day. Most of my roof pieces are ok. My drivers side rear window quarter has a lot of pin holes in it which will have to be addressed. I do have a donor window quarter so I may use that.
One question I have is when you guys put these pieces back together do you add a welting strip or anything in between the pieces being bolted or do you just bolt metal to metal?
My quarters will go to the media guy next. I also realize that I probably should not have had him epoxy primer these since I have a bit of metal work to do still. What is the best coarse of action to prevent rust when items come back? A different type of primer?

 

Another question on the welding end of things. I was talking to Bob Moon my media blaster guy and he advised me to use my welder hooked up to the 220V all the time. He said even with small wire patches and such they run with a much better arc on 220. Is this true?

 

Today I got on B pillar foot made and welded in. Also pie cut the front sub rail cowl brace to fit better. Small steps .....