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Projects First build: 1930 model a

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by JOHANSON, Oct 14, 2014.

  1. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    As the title states, this is my first build. I'm going to need a lot of guidance through this, so be patient. I've recently purchased a 1930 Model A frame for $150, the price seems to be right, and a 1946/47 flathead 59a for $250.



    Now I've got to decide on what I want to do with it first. I'm guessing I need to start off by stripping the chassis and installing the suspension/axles. I've got my mind set on the 4" drop front end kit from chassis engineering, but I have no clue what to do about the rear end. I have the set of wire wheels from the original car, I was told they'll fit on most 9" Ford axles. I haven't decided on what drive train I want to use, but I have the original 3-speed so I guess I'll stick with that until I decide later on. Any suggestions on a rear end?
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
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  2. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Do you know what you want for a body? I'd say get a body first. And the Tardell book.

    Since you've got the 59A/transmission, I'd suggest going with a banjo rear end or at least starting your search there. They should be rather inexpensive and easy to find in your area. I see them on epay for short money in TX all the time. You'll definitely pay for a 9" no matter where you are.
     
  3. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,698

    Corn Fed
    Member

    You actually have a 28-29 frame there.
     
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  4. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    I'm leaning towards a roadster body. At the moment, I just want to be able to roll the chassis around, I don't really have anyone to help me. I may know of one person who might have a banjo rear end in my area, but other than that I can't find them anywhere. Maybe I need to look harder.

    I stole my brother's front end off of a 1941 pickup, I think I could jerry rig a few brackets to mount it to the chassis without modifications. The flathead was off of a water well rig, it came with half of a rear end with a sprocket attached. I might be able to salvage it, if I can identify it. Who knows.
     
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  5. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
  6. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    We need more pix. Right now, SAVE EVERYTHING. What part of TX are you in? It takes a while to catch a listing on the internet that's what you want and nearby on any given day. But I've found that if you look at least once a week, eventually you find something. Your desire to buy and someone's desire to sell just need time to overlap with this stuff.

    If all you want to do is be able to roll, just look around for model A stuff. It fits, and rolls a model A around just fine ;)
     
  7. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    I'll post some more pictures when I get home tonight. I'm really excited about this build, but at the same time I feel sick to my stomach:confused: I'm an hour away from Amarillo. OKC and Dallas seem to have new posts every day, but my area is pretty dry. I messaged a guy a few weeks ago about a banjo, maybe he still has it.
     
  8. Johanson,have you joined Fordbarn?Theres folks near you andnew mexico.Any early ford wheels will roll it around when you get front & rear.Google modelA serial numbers,and keep searching.
     
  9. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,047

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Besides checking out builds on this site, if you don't have a copy of Vern Tardel's book "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod, you should pick one up.
     
    patmanta likes this.
  10. The best place to start is by deciding where you want to be when you are finished. Now make a list and price out everything you will need to get there. Add up everything and find out what it will cost then you are finished. Next go to the classified ads and see what a car like you want is selling for. You will probably find it is better to start with a more complete abandoned project or a finished car.

    Before you start be sure to sit down with your local DMV and see what will be required to register the car when you are finished (receipts?).

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
  11. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    I always hear about this book, I think my brother has it, and the local library. I'll have to see.
     
  12. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    Our local DMV is pretty leaniant, all I'll need is a picture of the serial numbers and mileage, a picture of the entire car, and a bill of sale to get it titled and registered.
     
  13. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,651

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    AFTER you get the Tardel/Bishop book:

    1) get a body
    2) get a rear axle/bones/spring
    3) get a front axle/bones/spring/spindles (put the catalogs down and get real Ford stuff, there's plenty out there. There are guys here that drop axles)
    4) get the size wheels and tires you want to use
    5) get the chassis together and get the engine and trans in the frame. Stand back and see if you like the stance. That will keep you busy for a while, ask anyone here. ;)
     
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  14. Novaron
    Joined: Mar 12, 2010
    Posts: 188

    Novaron
    Member
    from New York

    Good luck! Lots of a ideas on the web to look at, and see what you like.
     
  15. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    I'm from Texas and went the other day. About getting a car titled. From what they told me it was not going to be that easy. Of it's not in their computer. You will have to do a bonded title.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  16. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    You have to go to someone that knows what they're doing. The lady at my DMV has to do this all the time, so she knows the ropes. I've gotten three titles on motorcycles that had never been titled before, but that's probably a bit different.

    From what I understand, you go in, show them all of the paperwork you have, then they'll give you a request for title form(after they call the PD and make sure it isn't stolen). You fill that out and hand it back, and two weeks later they send you a title rejection letter in the mail. Then you call the lady and she sets up a 'title hearing' a few days from then. At this 'title hearing' you fork over a few hundred dollars, sign a few papers, show current proof of insurance on any vehicle you own, and bam. They print you off a title, and register it if you want to do it at that time.

    Edit: I guess you also have to have it inspected and bring them the report.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2014
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  17. modelamotorhead
    Joined: Dec 24, 2011
    Posts: 471

    modelamotorhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good, stay enthused about the project, that's 90% of this hobby. If you don't already have them, get a good welder, grinder, and some extra jack stands. Try to hit any and all swap meets (I've even found Model A stuff at yard sales). Walk away from it when you hit a snag, and above all else....have fun with it.
     
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  18. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    I've got most of the tools covered, and I bought a Harbor Freight mig 170 a while back, is that a good enough welder? I emailed that guy back and asked him if he had a 28-31 rear end, he said he has one and to call him today after work. Judging by his craigslist post, it seems like he sells the parts for reasonable prices, I'm guessing I could get the entire assembly for $100-150. I'll ask about a front end and a fourth 19" wire wheel while I'm at it.
     
  19. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    The HF welder will get you started, but don't expect to do much more than tack things with it to be finish welded later with a more reliable machine. I have the smaller HF unit and it tends to not penetrate well on thicker pieces and blow through thin sheetmetal. It's good for tacking up real quick but that's about it. You're going to want to save up for a Miller, or maybe a Lincoln or Hobart.

    Don't spend too much on stock A rolling gear. You're going to want to swap it out at some point before the build is finished. The 19" wheels are only going to be good to move it around with.
     
  20. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    I'll be over in the corner --->
     
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  21. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    I have the same problem with mine. I can take it to the shop at work over the weekends and finish weld there. They have a couple of high dollar Lincoln welders and a tig I'd like to learn to use.

    I've been able to find a bunch of the wire wheels for about fifteen dollars a piece, so I figured I'd use them for the time being. Were there problems with them?
     
  22. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Well, I can tell you, never trust it welding to a flat surface. You can improve penetration a little if the flat piece is hot and you score it up a bit, but not by much. Stick to tacking and finishing with another machine.

    They're narrow and about 3" too big for most any proper hot rod tire. You want the 16" wires or steelies. For rolling something around, or if you're looking to build a gow job, they're fine.
     
  23. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    I was planning on doing solids when I'm finished. What brand do you suggest?
     
  24. The price for the wire wheels sounds good but they can't have excessive run out, be out of round, have broken spokes or oversize holes for the lug nuts. The only thing you need to watch for with the '28-'35 wire wheels is that you need to run an adapter if you go with the 1940'-'48 hydraulic brake drums. The wire wheels were designed to be used with a drum that had a small step in it and the 1940-48 drums didn't have the step. See http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045

    Charlie Stephens
     
  25. It is not possible to make a suggestion until the rest of the car gets defined. I like the bent spoke Kelsey wheels but they also go with the type of car I like.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  26. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    For steelies, original Ford wheels if you can find good ones, 5 on 5.5" pattern. Old Jeep wheels ran 5 on 5.5 too.

    For brand new, I think Wheel Vintiques is probably a good brand to start at least looking at. They make a bunch of steel wheels in bunch of sizes. You can order them from a bunch of places.
     
  27. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Also, Is that front end you pulled set up for parallel leaf or transverse? I'm not familiar enough with the trucks to just know. But those spindles, hubs and brakes should be good for your build regardless.
     
  28. JOHANSON
    Joined: Apr 4, 2010
    Posts: 37

    JOHANSON
    Member
    from texas

    Yes, it's set up for parallel. I thought about it, and I've just about decided to just weld together a couple of pieces of angle iron bolt it on to the chassis. I don't really need suspension at this point. It's either off of a '52 or a '41.
     
  29. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,504

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Well either way you can at least use the brakes. Pretty sure 52 F1 will bolt up. 41 to 48 certainly will.

    Someone will correct me.
     
  30. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,226

    manyolcars

    the Very Best thing you can do is go to the Chickasha pre-war swap meet.
    its coming up soon and is close to you

    http://www.pwsm.com/
     
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