Projects Fireball 8, how much is too much...?

Seems like you tried everything with the carb.
Try doing a compression test.
I had similar problems with my 51 263.
Check my build thread
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-the-shane-asylum.868987/page-9#post-11046574

 

I recall a Buick straight 8 I had in for a tune up...Checked comp., replaced plugs, points. cond. Rotor, cleaned cap. Adjusted valves, replaced rocker cover gasket. Miss...Darn!
Finally, after running at 2,200 RPM and removing plug wires 1 by 1, locating miss: Removed the rocker arm cover and Voila! #5 exhaust spring was broken on the 1st coil. Unnoticeable, until you had reason to LOOK. ( ponder, inspect, examine) There was my miss. Air pressure applied to #5 cyl. with piston at TDC, flywheel locked, I removed the spring and slipped another in...adjusted the valve and replaced the cover.
Ran smooth as silk. (1960, at Mayfield's Garage)

 

I might make an adapter from an old spark plug and blow some air in the cylinders while the valves are closed. If air comes out the carb, you know that intake valve is leaking. If it's out the exhaust, there's your leak. Out of the pan, rings are worn and so forth.

 

With miles that low, just clean it up and make it a driver. If you want a gasser, get this Buick going good with I8 and then find another light car for a gasser, plenty of 50's cars that are just a body and frame, and build the light one into a gasser. then put a trailer ball on the Buick and flat tow your gasser to the track with it!

 

With all due respect, I'd rather have a slow 2 door than a fast 4 door. Best thing you can do IMHO is get this thing running and driving reliably for as little money as possible with the I8, then sell it and buy a 2 door. I'm not trying to be a dick, but you're swimming upstream trying to make this yacht "fast", and you're swimming upstream through raw sewage trying to do it with that I8.

 

it's got kind of a gaser look...
(ruined it back in 1979.)

 

knowing what I know now... just get it running and driving. it doesn't have to look good. just enjoy it as is... A survivor car. you don't even need to do body work or paint to it. just keep a for sale sign up in it.

 

stick with it.

 

Nieko..glad to hear you got your problem solved. Keep the I8! I have had similar problems recently with my 51 263. EXCEPT I have new wires. Runs great at idle. Under load backfires and under powered. Prior to problem I had her running great. Carb rebuilt....4 bolt stromberg two barrel type (same style kit you used), new plugs/gapped, wires, cap, rotor, condensor, new points/adjusted, timed. Ran great for months then the miss started.......cleaned plugs, readjusted carb settings just in case, valve lash adjusted, even did new cap rotor and points again.....just in case, checked for crossed wires......still problems under load. I'll never give up on this I8. Its too cool. Its not about how fast you go its about how cool you look moving. Somebody mentioned cracked valve spring.....how would I go about finding that besides visual inspection. I've looked but not closely. Anything more scientific to find it? Also, my compression readings are lower....but were prior to the problem. All around 100. Planning to rebuild the 263 this winter but really want to find the problem 1st. AND yes BOTH BEAUTIES are mine...I'm a lucky man!

 

Two hotties in the same picture, you are living the life!! Truly

 

Nieko your advice about the service manual is great and I have already done just that. I have it both on CD and a printed version. I actually like the old service manual better. In performing the valve lash adjustments I tried doing it as the manual described using the .015 feeler gauge. When I was finished it was worse. Spoke with my old man who is actually an old time mechanic and Buick freak and he suggested that I had probably gone too tight with the adjustment as he remembers it takes quite a touch to use the "feeler" gauges while the engine is running especially with the nut and screw adjusters. As usually the old man was right. I went thru all of them probably about 6 times and it ran way better but still has a miss under load. Heat riser is stuck in the open position and always has been despite on going attempts to free it up. It does it with or without air cleaner and just like you my old man suggested the same possibility. Vacuum advance seems to work fine. Checked for vacuum leaks but have found none. With cap off I wiggled the distributor and there does not seem to be any play in it. Have thought to pull it and check it closer. Coil is about 2 years old. Maybe has 700 miles on it. I thought the coil might be my next choice a its easy enough. The low pressures are the reason for the rebuild but my readings are the same as prior to the problem. If I get this licked I will finish fabricating my see thru valve cover. Might make adjustment in the future easier lol.

 

you can run engine with cover off. oil will not sling everywhere. is yours a 3 speed or dflow? dflows have hyd lifters with zero lash. if so, make sure oil is streaming down the push tubes and lifters are primed and not flat.

 

Long...I have 3 speed sychromesh (series 40) so if I am reading manual correctly have plain sleeve solid lifters.....

 

might pull rocker shaft off and pop each valve down with a plastic hammer. check to see if any is sticking. also check mechanical timing.

 

You should write to Buick complaining about their crappy plug wires that wore out after only 63 years lol.

 

The copper WIRES did last.......it was the INSULATION that failed.

Ray

 

I too did the MMO thing but mixed it in with the fuel. Have done so regularly. When I did my first compression check a while back I dumped the MMO into the cylinders and let sit over night. Ran much better after that too. My engine has about 68,000. Then again maybe its 168,000 lol. Engine sat as best I can tell since about 1980 prior to my resurrection. I just tried a 2nd new coil as the spark color jumping from the wire to the plug as I was checking cylinders seemed weak. Color was orange. Seems to me it should be blue/white? Still no better. I cannot think of anything else ignition related to try. The sticking valve seems to be possible. Maybe I'll try the MMO trick on the valve train AND, remove it and hit valves with a rubber mallet. May be until after the holiday before I have time to try it. thank you all for the input. I will check in to see if anybody has other ideas between now and then. Otherwise have a nice labor day weekend all!

 

My engine was doing the same as yours
Valves were sticking
Stems were rusted in guides moved okay but
Slow to close.
Guides were fine.
Also valves were pitted at seats.
The more i ran it the worse it got.
I guess that carbon and old lead deposits helped seal it.
Modern fuels wahed it away.
Try a running compression test
And
A leakdown test.
Or just pull the head and do a valve job.

 

Did leak down test and revealed what I already knew about the rings leaking from sounds coming from dip stick. Had a bit of noise in the valve covers. Guide seals? Did not hear anything from exhaust or carb though. I also took MMO in a spray bottle and ran stream at valve springs (gaps) so it ran down valve stem and hopefully into guide as the seals are old. Let it sit and do its thing. Rapped on valve stems with rubber mallet. Sprayed the rest of valve train with the MMO. Ran engine and got it toasty. Ran better. Still has a putt putt sound that occurs mostly when cruising and at upper end of each shift point. Also has a pop pop noise when you let off the throttle. I think I partially freed up a sticking valve. What you guys think? Nieko one word MICE! Little F%$#ers get everywhere. Have you been above your headliner yet?

 

If you are leaking air to the dipstick, it would also be in the valve cover. Has nothing to do with the valve guide seals. A pop noise is often a vacuum leak. But it could be a sticky valve.

 

Is my thought process for freeing up a would be sticking valve correct? I did get an improvement. If I understand correctly your saying leakdown test all points to rings? Not valves? I'll check again for vacuum leaks. Any tips on isolating one easily?

Sent from my XT1056 using Tapatalk

 

Leak down, if that is what you are doing or just air pressure to the cylinder, if it leaks past the rings will be through out the pan, valve cover, timing cover and all that splash oil gets to. If the intake valves leak it will blow out the carb. Exhaust out the tail pipe. Can't test valve seals with a leak down. The common way to look for vacuum leaks is listen for a whistle and spray starting fluid at the suspect area with the engine at idle. I it speeds up, it's sucking in air there and that is a leak.

 

Some basic hop-up mods will retain the uniqueness, and should provide livelier performance without sacrificing too much in the way of drive-ability and dependability. You've got a good running old Buick. Just keep it simple and make the most of it.

There are a few pages about hopping up the Buick 8 in California Bill's Speed Manual (1954), widely available in
reprint.



A re-ground cam is cited as the biggest power improvement. Delta Cams can probably accommodate. They may even have stats for the old Howard's Cams grinds. Just don't go too wild. (Have them re-surface your lifters, as well.) The stock valve train will work just fine.

Head porting, including re-seating the valves for valve bowl work, is also touched upon
(though perhaps not cost effective for this application).

A couple of carbs, free flow dual pipes, and an electronic converter in the distributor will probably maximize your investment, and make cruise nights a ball.

 

Nieko.....here's the video. Borrowed my buddies GoPro. Recommend some Dramamine. Sorry its sideways. My first GoPro video. Enjoy the ride!

 

Sweet ride, ain't a damn thing wrong with more doors. Easier to ingress and egress the back especially when oldest and or intoxicated. . The old straight 8 sounds strong, keep it if you can. Maybe add a mellow tone glass pack.

 

Hmmm...
First, let me say I like chopped flywheels. Makes things more responsive. Hit the pedal, rev the motor.
Back off, it's like hitting the brakes. (I'm not into drag strip launches. You shouldn't be either, in your 4 door Buick.)

That being said, IF I were planning a hop-up, and had the clutch out, I would seriously consider chopping the flywheel, and having it balanced (with pressure plate) while I was at it.
There are a million "Reader's Rides" in the little books that go something like... "Motor features dual carburetor's and a chopped flywheel". i.e., It was once common practice, even on moderate hop-ups. Pedal response is a good thing. (Unless maybe you do a lot of driving in the hills.)

 

I don't see any problem there.

 

Flywheel in my Avatar four door '49 Chevy.

 

A Buick 3 speed box would be the ultimate. (I'm running a Packard.)
But in the real world, what you've got is a good thing! Get in it and go!

 

Cool your jets. Any Buick with a three speed box is good thing!