Customs finishing off my 38 chevee project

Same to you nunattax, I 'll lift a pint to ya!

 

read that wrong leakie.cheers chris

 

Hey Chris,
Truck is looking great, I like the filler pieces between the floor and cab corners. I'll be doing that myself, but I just ripped the entire floor out of mine to perform some surgery. Thanks for the ideas.
Eric

 

eric thanx .I should have done that a long time ago when I could have sat the cab on its nose.would have been a lot easier and cleaner job to do. post up some pictures of the job on the floor c.

 

did some work on the dash.didnt have nuts the correct thread to mount the gauges ( 8-32 ) so I tapped out some m4 stainless ones.m4 washers and lockwashers fitted also.trial fitted the gauges look well IMO
update ordered #8 locknuts and washers from NAMRICK in the uk,very reasonable to have the correct parts

 

countersunk a m5 bolt either side of the dash for extra earth points,easily accesable with the dash mounted..because I rubber mounted the dash I will need them

 

didn't get any gauge lights with the truck.sourced some from mike.will need to be wired.also one bulb was seized in the holder.sprayed plenty of penetrating oil heated it then froze it .eventually it came out.seem to be some kind of regular bulb over here should be able to get some tomorrow

 

Lookin' good Chris. I like the use of the original gauges. Are you running the dash completely stock?

 

yeah man dash is unmolested except for 2 extra switches in the centre of the dash and wiper switch hole on the left of the dash.still looks stock.i got the gauges redone by jim carter trucks,didnt cost anymore than buying new gauges and senders.if I was to do it again id get the amp gauge redone as a volt meter.i wont connect up the amp meter because too much current running behind the dash.unless it could be done through a relay,ill have to ask my man

 

got some gauge bulbs dis morning.12v 4watt.hope they wont be too bright.if they are ill fit a dimmer out of something and hide it away.stock 6v 1amp

 

Awesome. I love the clean simple stock dash. I wanted to try to keep mine as stock as possible, but it's pretty rotten and I don't think I'll get everything to fit right. That's a while down the road for me though. Keep up the awesome work man, you'll have video up of you driving it before you know.


Do you really care what I used to post this message?

 

working on some panels to protect the dimmer switch from the worst of the weather.first attempt.just need to refine the shape a little.1.2mm aluminium sheet. .think ill do one for the passenger side as well.and por15 around the front cab mounts

 

Looking real good Chris - like your thinking outside the box - still working on my garage - power and insulation - getting there - keep up the good work and posts
mike

 

will do mike

 

changed tack today my buddy and fellow hotrodder ciaran called to help me lay on some heat wrap.started with around 38 ft of a 50ft roll of 2 inch wrap'
.did about 3ft either side from the headers to the floor.wraping the 2.5 in pipe needed about 6ft to travel 1ft.a roll dont go far on 2.5 in pipe.will need another 50ft roll to get to the back of the cab

i have another 50 ft of 1 inch to wrap the block hugger headers with 1 1/2 header pipes.hope it will make it
looking at the photos i reckon i could do the small section again behind the flexijoint again to tidy it up.
soaked the wrap in water for 30 min before laying it on.kept the dust down and helped to stretch it
got the template to close out the passenger side cab mount done last night hope to cut it and spray it tomorrow

 

made a panel for the passenger side .now for some paint

 

trying to do the little jobs done so i can put the floor down.i needed a bracket to steady the trans dipstick..went for a bkt bolted to the back of the head.made a prototype today.sent a drawing to be burnt.might have it friday .mock up is in alloy but will get the final one in 2mm stainless since these bolts will be hard to access with the floor in place the plan isto lock wire the heads to the bracket and small spacers behind the bracket to aide cooling the bkt and the head..ill put a split pin in the m5 bolt that holds the clip to the bracket

 

moving on painted and trial fitted the shields.trial fit the floor again.soon as i get the steady for the dipstick should be able to fit the front section of the floor.POR15ed the cab mounts.pictures are showing some little bits i missed.touch them up later.i find the POR15 great fot treating the bits that are lightly rusted.

 

[ View attachment 3514965 I was still waiting for the bracket to steady the dipstick,no sign of it the guys busy so I made my own from 25x3mm aluminium.ducafe knocked up two stainless spacers for me,thanks mike.drilled the 3/8 bolts to lockwire them.superglued the spacers to the head to make assembly easier.another little job done and dusted.
once I get the dimmer switch in and wired should be able to put down the floor.

 

eventhough this bracket will work fine I think ill make another that will mount to the transmission.as luck would have it the top of the dipstick broke off..now I think shorten the tube at the top shorten the dipstick and reattach the top..maybe cut the tube near the clamp and twist it 90 degrees.sleeve it and put it all back together.should end up with a tidy dipstick away from the rocker covers and easy to use filler tube

 

tired of waiting for a stainless bkt,I made one from aluminium instead..cut it from 4mm aluminium plate and 1/8 x 1 inch stock on the top..anyway that's the final bracket for the time being.when I paint it black tomorrow I want it to disappear and b forgotten about.

 

painted the bracket black.hardly know its there now .repaired the dipstick ,shortened by 36mm

 

fitted a switch tonight to the passenger door.switch came from a Suzuki swift that's been in the family for 15 years.recently went to the crusher.switch is a reliable unit and its got its own rubber cover normally fitted in the b pillar near the cill..drilled and tapped the a pillar and filed out the opening.anyway fitted well a combination ot large clearance between door and a pillar and a recess in the door..switch clips into the opening on the bottom and 1 4mm screw locates it on top [ATTAC
maybe do the other tomorrow night

 

Dang it Chris - I love your attention to the details - mighty fine work / craftsmanship - " Keep On Trucking " and one day it will be for real !

 

thanx mike. the to do list is getting shorter but plenty left.

 

im not too far away from starting her up.i needed to get the oil feed to the gauge connected up.,i thought I had all the fittings and line but none such luck.i didn't have an adapterfor the back of the gauge.the connection for the block fitted fine..back of the oil gauge was 7/16 JIC.the pipe needed 1/8 bsp.at the hydraulic shop they could step down needing two adapters .this was too heavy to have hanging off the gauge and too long.going to 1/8 bsp in a smaller package meant making /adapting one ourselves.this was made by mick o shea atDUCAFE workshop.a very nice job too mick.we shortened it where we could and silver soldered it together.plastic line andfittings from jegs 7/16 jic elbow female to male from your local hydraulic shop.the plastic line is very flexible and gives plenty options on where to route it.jegs nylon oil line kit #555-41050

 

got 2 bushings turned up for the tailgate from black nylon.knocked out the old ones which were very worn,tailgate swings smooth and quietly now.was thinking of ordering chains for the tailgate to finish it off but will go for tailgate support cables instead.they will be quieter and wont wear the paint away

 

just need some paint and some some tiger seal and another for the drivers door

 

hey hey I located the misplaced second door stop/restricter after a prolonged search should be all systems go for tomorrow on the second door. and found a missing anode for the radiator as well.things are looking up.

 

oil and filter changed in anticipation of start up used a classic engine oil new to mehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autosol-Roadster-20W-50-Classic-Car-Engine-Oil-Lubricant-API-SE-CC-5L-/232079031918 and a mann w9365 filter quality item.i kept the exhaust far enough away from the exhaust when I made it to give me the option of both long and short filters.my first choice wix oil filters aren't readily available local unless I want to order a tray of them.i usually get a couple at a time when I can get some.