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Customs finishing off my 38 chevee project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by nunattax, Aug 31, 2015.

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  1. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    nunattax
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    taking pictures but cant upload at the moment
     
  2. coilover
    Joined: Apr 19, 2007
    Posts: 573

    coilover
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    from Texas

    Primo work and I like your approach in retaining a lot of the factory look. Too late for your project but others might get a tip on how to keep the stock temp capillary tube when swapping in a V8. Photo is a sbc but many have a cross over coolant passage at the rear of the intake that can be tapped into for temp sensor bulb. We even brazed a fitting into the freeze plug on the rear of a 472 Cadillac head that worked fine---just check to see if there is room for the bulb. Also a pic of a near twin to your 38 we call "the project" getting freon before going out the door.

    S10 054.jpg Stude, Justin's 40, Cougar, Cat 004.jpg
     
  3. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    nunattax
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    hey Coilover thanx for the comments and the info.id not have thought of that I bought a new manifold but sold the old low profile one straight away.maybe if I had the old one lying around to look at id have done something similar but now I have your new info ill be approaching things in a different way in the future.thanx for sharing.i love 30s autos and my intention has allways been to keep all the class quaint features of that era.the project looks like a 39 or 40 chevy to me.cant be sure.any picture of the dash in it .go n eiri an bothair leat.
     
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  4. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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  5. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    nunattax
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    toe boards cowl and window winder nuts 033.JPG toe boards cowl and window winder nuts 036.JPG toe boards cowl and window winder nuts 034.JPG toe boards cowl and window winder nuts 035.JPG cameras back.been busy ,cutting cards for the side of the cowl.ill be covering them with black vinyl and insulating the backs.wired the taillights /indicators keeping the wiring out of sight with the connections under the floorboard.working on fitting the windscreen winder .getting the winder shaft central in the dash opening..decided to cut some captive nuts that cant rotate in the dash but will allow me to adjust them up/down ,left right.one end is 1" diameter the other 3/4 at 1 5/8 centres.the 3/4 end is drilled and tapped 1/4 unc.cut from 8mm alloy.1 done 1 to do.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2019
  6. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    nunattax
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    1 hr of hacksawing ,filing and sanding later 1 captive windscreen winder dash nut.wheres the etch primer.1" end is a slightly loose fit in the back of the dash C section.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
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  7. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    now in paint ready to go. paint on the winder nut 001.JPG
     
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  8. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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  9. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    I had a few issues with the dash.first the grommet around the winder was hitting the winder mechanism.solution I pared the grommet with a Stanley knife to give a little more clearance that worked out.also had a tie wrap holding some wire to the ignition switch get in the way rerouted that wire and cut the tie wrap.shiming the mounting bolts on the dash will help me steer the winder central in the hole in the dash.took a bit of looking and learning but ive got it cracked.i think . the captive nuts are working great allowing fine adjustments to be made with 1 hand.when the adjustments are finalised I will add locknuts to hold the position of the winder .plan to insulate the back of the dash when I get the next batch.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
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  10. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    window winder has slotted mounting left/right adjustment.needed to adjust it down so filed the cab a little to lower it still not where I needed it .the dash is hanging on the cab .I washer behind the bottom mount on the dash swings the dash to where I need It and gets the winder centre in the hole in the dash.yippee.whats the next issue gonna be
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
  11. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    the next issue popped up straight away .noticed I had the glass in the speedo inside out.couldnt be looking at it.opened the gauge up and sorted it out.first pic is the (be cool)windows painted the speedo white to reflect the light into the gauges. gauge windows reverse glass 001.JPG gauge windows reverse glass 002.JPG there is little need to bend the chrome strip around the glass.its trapped between the body of the gauge and the dash when its bolted in.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2019
  12. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    original dash mounting bolts painted. drilled and tapped a 2x1 to hold them dash bolts painted 001.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
  13. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    nunattax
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    just ordered enough sound insulation to finish the cab and 1m x 1m of black heat/ water /oil resistant foam for under the hood 6mm thick to quieten things at the front end.depending on what ive left over after the cab thinking of putting some on the underside of the running boards and some under the fenders to protect from stone chips(worst affected areas) .ETA Friday/early next week

    getting some 5mm mild steel rolled to suit the cab corners so I can make brackets to hold the seat belts.5mm is light but will be bolted into the B pillar and the cab structure when its done .ETA tomorrow
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2019
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  14. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    insulation arrived but new ETA for the rolled 5mm is next week. patience needed.have to wait for the small jobs
     
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  15. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
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    nunattax
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    working on a few different jobs at the same time again.no pics camera battery on the way out.spent a good while on the seat belt mount slow work and tedious cutting and shaping rolled 5mm steel.first one is close the second one will be quicker.used off cuts to insulate the back of dash.made a bkt to stop the wiper switch from rotating while tightening it/painted /drilled /and araldited it to the back of the dash.finished insulating the drivers door.used 2 layers of 2mm foil backed then added 6mm foam heat insulation.extra weight helped the door close firmly and sounds quality.packed the door lock and window winder cavitys with grease.should really have added a grease nipple to the door locks.a while back when I opened them up I found the workings dry and broken return springs.sourced new springs local and added bushings where possible..if /when I come across some other locks I will add grease nipples and make them serviceable.currently the lock halfs are opened by bending a tab.eventually the tab will break.plan is to add a bushing and hold it together with screws.offering unlimited access.when I got the truck the lockrail was well out of shape..its approx. 4"x1/4" u section.straightened it on a shrinker/stretcher and welded a crack midway.i felt it would bend again so I added some 1/4" x 1 1/4" alloy to strengthen it.drilled and tapped 3mm countersunk screws to hold it in place and also used ARALDITE 2 pac adhesive to keep it straight .filled the remaining space in the U with 6mm foam insulation.getting there slowly but surely
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2019
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