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Customs finishing off my 38 chevee project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by nunattax, Aug 31, 2015.

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  1. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
    Member

    had a go at fixing the power steering leaks today (2).with great success.dry as a bone now.disassembly and care full reassembly subsititing another fitting worked. access was tight but alls well that ends well.what fucking leak.next up was the thermostats problems removed and checked the thermostat was opening it was so it was left out.the weather here has been extra hot for a few weeks peaking at 33 C.way too hot for me.so stat out and removed the stat for the fan I removed the ptfe tape on the taper thread in case there was an earth issue and replaced it.end result was improved circulation in the rad the fan cut in when it was needed and cut out after a short while .mission accomplished .tried to upload a video but no luck there..if I had lights and brake lights I could go for a spin. I ll say it again top job ciarain.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2018
  2. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    reassembly happening bit by bit.connect the servo up is top priority out for spin with fuckall brakes 003.JPG
     
  3. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    some snags showing up.rear wheel bearing have play,a lot of it.i did the shimming so no ome to blame but myself.if at first you don't succeed then try and try again..
     
  4. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    fitted the new wheel bearings and reshimmed them.another issue surfaced.the pivot in the underdashbrake assembly has play in it its a new assembly and I expected better.there were two issues here.ita a 7/16 bolt.the holes where it ran through the bracket were too big and the nylon bushings on the shaft were a little loose.allso the bolt was threaded where it ran through the bracket.on one side.we reworked the pivot using a longer m12 bolt.turned down to give a nice fit in the nylon bushes.at this the bolt was slightly too big for the holes in the bracket.a small rub of a round file opened these holes up for a snug fit.cut the bolt to correct length plus a few thou.drilled and tapped the end of the bolt m5.locktighted a m5 stud in thereand used a bodywasher and locknut to hold the pivot assembly together..the hex end of the bolt has a tab to stop the bolt spinning.we machined the head of the bolt to fit snug against the tab.im very happy with how it turned out,a much better job than it was when new pivot spins freely now with no play.thanks to mick at ducafe/medaza. brake assembly 004.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2018
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  5. Leakie
    Joined: Nov 10, 2010
    Posts: 263

    Leakie
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    It’s good to see an update, I was beginning to think you took the summer off.
     
  6. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    far from it the big update will be when the fenders go back on,looking forward to that one.
     
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  7. pila38
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 763

    pila38
    Member

    Me too! Keep at it man.
     
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  8. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    fitted the pedal assembly.next move is to reroute the brake lines to the front calipers.ive a feeling that a junction is holding some air.the plan is to remount it in a vertical position so it will bleed itself.
     
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  9. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    im going to do away with the shortened thru frame fixings and take a different approach.they are holding air better off without without them.imho.the front lines will run outside the frame rails away from exhaust heat,ok they will get hit by all the crud splashed from the wheels thats cool water which will have little to no affect on braking I hope.
     
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  10. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    made some progress today made a tab to hold the fitting drilled and riveted it to the crossmember.had to strip a fair bit out to drill the holes.was going to tap for stainless screws but in the end riveted it on.dry ran everything on the pass side looks like it will work.finish this side off tomorrow .
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2018
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  11. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    passenger side completed
     
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  12. I haven't been on here much lately.
    Good to see it coming together !
    Looks great in the driveway!
     
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  13. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    thanx
     
  14. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
    Member

    front brake line second attempt 004.JPG finally got around to the drivers side front brake line..ran it down the A pillar and along the outside of the frame.away from the exhaust heat this time . i used domed allen bolts to plug any holes in the frame..where I needed a clip to tidy the brake hose I drilled the centre of the allen head and tapped for m4 stainless screws..i like stainless everything especially where its out of sight and out of mind.i like the black nylon coated Goodrich hose.disappears against a dark blackground.from my local Harley dealer.ive given the hose a dry run ,its ready to go except for final assembly. front brake line second attempt 002.JPG front brake line second attempt 003.JPG
    once I get a proper brake pedal it will be time to replace the fenders and running board I cant wait.
     
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  15. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    spent today trying to bleed the brakes.bled the brakes and had a good firm pedal.ran new hose to the servo and fired her up pedal dived to the floor.im led to believe that I will have to replace the flex hose where possible with hard line.because the flex hose is expanding under load.ive been informed by Kieran that the servo is a powerfull unit and the brakes should work well if we replaced the flex with hard line.i don't doubt him so ill have to have another attempt at sorting out the brakes.learning all the time .sorted out some other issues.finished off a rubber mounted steady on the inner wings.rubber mount is from my local Harley dealer.thinking of moving the proportioning valve to the inner chassis leg,and using a mechanical brake light switch.cutting down on brake junctions where possible. inner wings rubber steadys etc 001.JPG inner wings rubber steadys etc 002.JPG inner wings rubber steadys etc 003.JPG inner wings rubber steadys etc 004.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2018
  16. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    by the way the crappy welds on the inner wing mounting slipped through the net,didnt have access to a dremel in time before the inner wings were to be painted .that's a job for later on.got pulled on that one today.that horrible weld came with the truck.
     
  17. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    it was a dry day today.pushed the truck out of the garage and bled the calipers again.two small air bubbles found.after doing the rounds a few times.we decided to replace as much of the Goodrich hose as we could with hard line.copper /nickel alloy KUNIFER ALLOY.Ican get a 25 ft roll local and hopefully all the fittings I need.if at first you don't succeed and all that.
    in the second photo you can see a jacking point I bolted on in front of the rear wheel to jack the chassis with the running boards on.(high tensile bolts) works a treat
     

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    Last edited: Oct 25, 2018
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  18. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 462

    patsurf

    how far from the town gory,in co wexford are you?-pat
     
  19. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    never heard of it ,do you mean Gorey ?
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
  20. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    the carb wasn't running right after a long spell idle.a strip down revealed a perished one way valve in the accelerator pump and a load of blue gunk stuck in the nozzle.replaced the orange coloured one way valve and cleaned the nozzle with compressed air,and fine sandpaper.another job sorted.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
  21. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    pushed the truck out to redo the front brake lines.made great progress til it pissed down on us.got the front lines finished and bled.lines look the same as the black flex hose we lined the copper nickel hardline with a tough plastic pipe to protect against stone damage.followed the same route as before down the A pillars,happy to make progress on the brake lines at last.another day should finish it omitted the hydraulic brake switch and will use a mechanical switch instead.then its fenders on time.
    the copper /nickel lines were easy to cut flare and bend.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2018
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  22. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    we stripped out . the master cylinder its a 7/8 bore.way too small.ive e mailed kugel to get a recommendation.ive a 1 1/8 bore cast one on the way.we will have to see how that works out.could end up with a collection of m/c s before this is sorted.
     
  23. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    kugel/willwood recommended a 1 inch bore m/c.1 1/8 bore mc has landed
     
  24. chop job
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 590

    chop job
    Member
    from Wisconsin
    1. WISCONSON HAMBERS

    This is one nice hot rod truck lots of real great work.
     
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  25. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    thanx chop job!
     
  26. You've been busy! Great to see the progress!
     
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  27. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
    Member

    busy but little to show
     
  28. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
    Member

    1 inch bore master cylinder arrived on tue ,we fitted it today.connected the brake lines and we have a brake pedal..about time .next fine day when ever that will be can push it out ,bleed the lines (again)make some adjustments to the pedal height and go for a test drive.thanx to KUGEL KOMPONENTS for great after sales advice,overall good guys to deal with.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
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  29. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
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    bled the brakes .removed the front calipers to inspect the front pads and discs.pads discs and calipers are all new and are still bedding in and will need some milage to get 100% pad in contact with the discs.sprayed brake cleaner on the discs,wiped clean.lightly sanded the glaze from the pads.fenders on time I think.
     
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  30. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,546

    nunattax
    Member

    need lights and turn signals to get out and about.theres a stretch in the evenings now still bright at 6pm.ive allways been looking for bed roll indicators to fit the bed.rolls are 1 1/8 internal came across these repeater lights,theres a few leds in there.dont know if they will be bright enough.if not ill just use the amber lens and fit a 23 w bulb in there.time will tell.https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/30mm-side-repeaters .

    at the front going to try amber 23w bulbs in the headlight units.if these don't workout ill have to fit conventional indicators all round as well https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/satin-black-bullet-stalk-indicators-69mm
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
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