I got a chance to get the COE inside and started getting something done . I had a guy call me last week and wanted to see if I would show him body working tecniques that something other than the way he was used to(liquid body work) So I got the COE in and got him warmed up to a stud gun ,slappers and shrink disc and he is really excited about it . He wont be back for a few weeks so I decided it was time to get the project rolling . So I brought in the chassis I am using which is a 90s Isuzu NPR that someone put a rear cut from a 80s chev 1 ton on . I did some measuring and found the track width was real good and all I needed to do was get the wheels to line up with the fenders . As it turned out I had to move the engine back about 4ft to get the height all figured out . So I dropped the assembly on a cart that was the perfect height and rolled it back untill I was satisfied with the body location . I then had to cut an area of the back of the cab out to get the engine placed where I wanted it without interfering with the insides . There was alot of fitting and cutting in the front to get the sheet metal all lined up , but after moving the steering back the right amount and lobbing off the frame back to the spring mounts every thing looks good . I will post as I get more done as I have to do this between customer work as I already have 3 days into it already . I should get more done on Sat if I dont get too many interuptions . That is unless some of you are so bored with winter that you want to come and pitch in . Dan 507-263-7411
I think you will be happy with the engine moved back once it is completed. More interior room, less noise and heat. I have a large engine cover inside the cab on my 49 Ford COE, and if I ever redo it the engine will be moved behind/under the rear of the cab. It does not make it bad for driving with engine under the front of the cab, but it's a bitch to work on. The additional interior room would be nice too.
The weight shift between the fuel tank and dual batterys will be an even swap and shouldnt alter the steering feel .
Yes, I know, "Work smart, not hard." but, having a lift and high ceilings is cheating!!! (ha!) I see mounts for a tilt cab. Did your Isuzu chassis have any kind of latch assembly on it to hold the cab down? If you are not going to use the latch, I might be interested in buying it from you.
I have the front pivot assy and part of the catch if you are interested shoot me a PM .I got a little more done on it today with welding the front frame caps and installing the grille and inner panels . I also got the column mount made and fit and just need to order a steering joint to finish . I picked up a set of guages and will start running the wiring tomorrow .
Got some more done this weekend . Shortened the driveshaft , mounted the fuel tank and battery boxes , and fabbed up the cooling tubes for the radiator . Got the radiator mounted in and the sheetmetal hung and secured as well as the steps and running boards . My freind Dan that is banging on the body took on a mangled pass. door and it came out pretty good . While I had some visitors , I thought I would get the sleeper mounts made and install it so I can get a plan for the carrier part of the project . I want to build sides that swoop down the sides the same width as the sleeper . I will either narrow up or build rear fenders similar to 49-55 truck and add a style line along with an accent line around the fender opening . Hope to get it running next weekend and will pull the cab off and complete the welds on the frame as well as sandblast the inside and underside of the cab .Then on with the inside of the cab and sleeper .
I used some 46-47 Ford big truck front fenders to make my rear fenders. They have the same basic shape as the front fenders do, and the larger radius of the big truck matches the front better. I cut and rewelded them some, but you can see the result here.