Projects finally got my long desired 34 3 window

Also,
I got my new column and steering shaft...ill chuck the new shaft and the old stub with the work gear in the lathe and true them up to be welded together . I used this same guy for my my model a.. He is great to deal with and a real stand up straight forward guy. And he is quick as hell. He is on the hamb . Thanks mikespeedshop.nc
Great parts !



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I was getting the front end ready for my delivery of speedway suspension parts tomorrow, when I ran into a problem .. I was not aware that 34 used 7/8 eyelets on the spring, and 3/4 on the perch bolts .... I had ordered 3/4 stainless shackles with nylon bushings from speedway.... So I was scratching my head. I didn't want to replace the front spring because it is in really nice shape... So I hunted around to see if I had a stock model a spring to steal the main leaf from, no luck.. So I stumbled on a piece of copper pipe in the basement when I was tending to the wood burner... It was 7/8 o.d. And 3/4 I.d. Perfect! So I cut two pieces 1 3/4 long , pressed them into the spring eyes ... Grabbed a bushing and had to press it in the copper pipe. . It's perfect! Now I can run my stock spring with the availability of cheap speedway shackles . And the copper makes a good wear sleeve . I know it may not be the proper thing to do, but it's safe, effective and it's DONE



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Sandblasted , epoxy primered, painted, coated all the faces with axle grease and it a ready for installation



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Looking good! I like your new headlight mounts, the position is perfect now. Great engineering on the spring too! I had to use a piece of copper as a bushing on the drag link of the truck I'm restoring. works great!

 

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Looks good bud you will have it on the road in no time.

 

I worked on the rear end today since the front was about finished .
The rear had home made shackles that were about 2 inches longer than factory to drop the car some.. So those had to go! They were very unstable. The rear had all new bushings installed when they lengthened the shackles ,so all I did was get 4 pieces of flat bar stock and cut them to original length. Drill some small holes in each end, then hand file the holes square to fit the bushings.
At that time I also removed the top 4 leaves out of the car. This softened it up a bit and helped drop it down. I did the same process on my model a and it rides great.
Now the stance is finally set... Hoping to get the wood kit tomorrow to start fitting doors



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I also yanked 3 leaves out of the front , much much better , still a stiff spring but lower and a little smoother now.
Pics are hard to see the difference




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My brother taking pics of me working while he watches... Ha



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Rolled it outside today just to see the difference .. It's subtle bit it was needed

 

Build what you find upgrade when you can. I know where there are some 34 3w that will be coming available shortly.

 

eBay buy today . A nice short pitman arm so that my drag link will be level now and I won't have any wobble or bump steer issues



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Just looking at your side pic Ben. The headlights look a bit lost out front there. Would like to see a mock up with them down and back a tad. Make a cheap ass bracket to sit in front of your shocks, slightly offset to the side so no bolt interference. These little mounts work a treat, but I'm sure you can whip something up. Shock mounts are wicked, by the way.

 

im glad you mentioned that becuase now i see this and you are 100% correct.. the only problem i am havig is since the body is channeled 3 inches, the grill is further down. id i make them like normal mounts, there way to high. but if i drop them down and back, then they are way to close to the inner fenders and the shck mounts.. its all cluttered. this is something i am going to have to look into. i noticed the picture you attached, do those just slod over the shock mounts or how do they work? where are they from?
i know mounting headlights should be easy, and it owuld be if it wasnt so far channeled....
and im way to damn picky! i like the look of the rolling bones headlights, but my car isnt that low.. so im not sure where the happy median is.. ill see what i cant think up

 

This is what I am thinking... This plate will bolt behind the shock bracket ( identical shape) and then at the horizontal blue line I will bend it 90 degrees. That will make a good strong , short headlight stand. This will be at the exact same hegira just straight back four inches . Now if it will clear everything. ?...



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Actually, those mounts would require some modification as they don't bolt straight up to F1 stalks.
Shock holes are too small, and need to be shaved a fair bit to fit over top of shock. And headlight bolt clashes with angled shock. Definitely fab your own.

 

Houston we have steering... Temporarily .. The tube and shaft need shortened 2 inches and I need a 15 inch wheel instead of a 17.. Working on buying a column drop that will work... Should have one by next week. Once that's in a good location ill weld the box and get the shaft spliced together at my machine shop and we will be in business !!
Tomorrow my speedway order will be here. All new shocks , and tie rod ends. That will do it for the drivetrain other than the brakes.. Saving that for last. Decided to run a newer dual master cylinder .. So it will stop a little better



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nice work ....

 

I received more toys in the mail today ..
I installed the front shocks, which are to long but that's the shortest they make .. new tie rods, also received new adjustable door jam nuts. And I also received some nice intakes I did some trading for..
Everything is installed. Waiting on more parts .




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Just put some heat on the F1 stalks and bend them up and closer to rail. Should give you some adequate shock travel. Personally prefer the covered shocks Ben, but hey.
The old Fenton's are cool. Interesting to see them stamped opposite ways. A few years between them I'd guess.

 

i just recieved an email today... a friend had thrown out my name to a guy about a steel body. i have been inquiring about a few i found for sale... he has a 34 3 window body that he will part with, the price tag is up there, but it is definently in the proper range. im seeing what i can do... may end up with it.

 

I decided to pass on the three windows steel body I figured I better get my car done so I can drive at the Bonneville the way it is. I don't want to be setback $15-$20,000 in a body and be the same boat I'm in right now ,not finished.

On a different note I received my window track steel. I have been working on getting it split and been up to fit the contours of the doors. I also use some oak sheeting and laminated the floor of the car with fiberglass resin . now that the floor of the car is done it is much stronger and ready to be bolted down in place. Still waiting on the wood for my door jams and other parts hopefully the guy gets them done soon because there isn't much I can do without them

Until another day,


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cool, cool you have two very cool cars best of luck

 

Just some Mach up





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I love the build! Just curious, which do you think is harder to build/deal with, fiberglass body or steel body? I suppose they each have their pluses and minusus.

 

to me they are equally the same.
steel body is simple of your a welder/fabricator. you can weld the gaps and hammer out the dents and make it straight.. you do not have to reinforce things and think about flex and pot holes, etc...

fiberglass is everywhere, you can buy it at walmart and make a repair. its not like hunting down steel parts. fiberglass has no dents or rust holes to fix.. it does take a good amount of body work to make it straight. but you have to so that with steel also...

also steel parts fit! or you can make them fit, you can buy a door from canada and slap it on a car from florida and generally speaking, it will fit,,
not glass! there are thousands of different molds and fixtures for making these cars.. so if it needs a replacement panel, you better hope that company is still aorund or else you have a lot of mold work to do!

to me the best part of the fiberglass comapred to steel is this: i can afford fibergalss, steel just isnt in my pocket book... and also it is replaceable. i know my luck will run out some day for as many miles as i drive these old things....

im happy with my glass cars. i watch and read about alot of guys struggling to assemble a steel body, junk parts, lack of parts, lots of cobbled up previous work..... i wish i had a steel coupe in the worst way. but by the time i would even have all the parts to make a steel shell, i will be half way to bonneville in my glass car!

i hate kit cars. im not building a kit car. my car uses as many 100% real henry ford steel parts as i can use.... it doeset have power windows and a radio antenna, fenders and A/C..
its a stripped down hot rod. When im cruising west bound on I-80, no one will ever know the difference.

 

and judging from HOT TURKEY's story... i will be very careful about the insurance on this one.! Poor guy

 

Picked up a nice set of early manifolds. I prefer these style even though a lot of rodders are under the impression that they have terrible flow .
They fit in the frame well and they clear the f1 box well!




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Two of the cars I've built were a 34 3W using a Downs body and a 32 roadster using a Wescott body. Had a shit load of fun with both. Thats what it's all about, right?