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Projects Finally-a long roof

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1930artdeco, Mar 1, 2021.

  1. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 736

    AldeanFan

    Get a balljoint press, the one that looks like a big c clamp.
    Makes doing the bushings way easier

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  2. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    I have an 8” clamp, wonder if that will work with the right size of socket?

    mike
     
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  3. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Well had a great day today. I broke the last of the ball joints loose and took out the spindles and upper A arms. I could not get the lowers out as i did not have the wrenches to get the bolts out. Do I have to have the upper bushings pressed out to get the shafts out of the upper arms? One rotated in the bushings, the other did not, so I don't know what portends.

    On a side note, went to my first swap meet this year in Alameda and scored this A/C unit. It was first charged in 65 and according to the seller the motor runs! I hope I can use it, anybody have thoughs on how well these work with the new freons? . Slowly taking apart the steering parts and will have to cut more nuts off :deadhorse:. I break them loose, unscrew them to the last few threads and then they stop as the tie rod starts to spin in its case:(. Oh well, I will try and get the lower arms out next weekend.

    Mike
     

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  4. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 736

    AldeanFan

    I’ve had luck knocking the upper bushings out with an air chisel.

    When the tie rod starts to spin, put your Jack under it and put some pressure so the taper seats in the spindle and doesn’t spin.


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  5. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Tomorrow I am going to have a go at the lower control arms, I have been soaking them with either kroil or WD40 every so often so I am hoping that they are thoroughly soaked by then. Are these arms good to go where the spring sits? It looks like they got a little banged up as there is a lip where the shock sits inboard. I also discovered that I am pulling the original suspension apart as the rivets that hold the upper ball joints are there and have a waffle pattern.

    Second question is this, do I have the inner sleeve still left on the idler arm? If so, how do I get it off of the stud, cut, heat, twist, what? I ordered a spare spindle and two visor brackets from a yard in 29 Palms (forget the gentleman's name) But he sent me a great looking left spindle that was even blasted!

    Thank you,

    Mike
     

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  6. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 736

    AldeanFan

    Those arms just look dirty to me, but the pictures don’t look too clear on my phone. Clean them well and look for cracks and if no cracks paint and reinstall with new bushings.

    It should be obvious from the new idler bushing if that is a sleeve or part of the idler arm.
    If it’s a sleeve they usually have a slit, fit a chisel in the slit and open it up to free it.


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  7. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Well, got the lower arms out-easily. So something had to go and wrong and it did. One of the arms has a split where a bushing goes through the arm. So, off to get a new one. But the good news is I can reuse the pins-if that is ok to do.

    mike
     

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  8. Looks like a nice car, welcome to the long roof club. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Ok I have two suspension questions.

    1) How do the shafts and bushings work? I put one upper arm in a bushing and it rotated quite freely. I figured they would have a tight fit like one that I took off.

    2) Can I reuse the bolts for the lower arms if the frame is still good?

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
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  10. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Alright, going to start making up brake lines shortly. I will run the brake/fuel lines on the inside of the frame since I cannot get the clamp off that holds the original ones to the top of the frame rail. So here is my plan: Run each line down the frame in a rubber channel for abrasion/vibration protection and then use large hose clamps to attach them to the frame. Does anyone see any foreseeable issues?

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
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  11. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Update,

    Got the front brake line installed, rear brake line mocked up (just waiting to clean some parts up) and installed the rear shocks. Got the front springs and they will hopefully go in at the end of the month with the rest of the suspension. Figured out how I am going to run the long brake line. It will go through a gap just behind where they would normally go. I just have to make up a support bracket for the lines.

    Mike
     
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  12. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Well, I just put a deposit down on a complete 312 (hopefully-well it had a 4bbl carb at least) power train. I will get the rad, engine, tranny and drive shaft. Plus y’all of the PS components and a voltage regulator that looks good. Will pick it all up either this week or next. So my FE’s have to go bye bye really soon. My daughters school has an auto shop program so they may go there.

    Mike
     
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  13. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,428

    Budget36
    Member

    Good luck Mike!
     
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  14. I used some grey adhesive to attach the conduit for an electrical line to the concrete wall in my basement. It was perfect, tick tight when dry and hardened to the consistency of hard rubber. I tried with all my might to pry the conduit off the wall just to see how well it was holding. It wouldn't budge. I was thinking that this stuff might be perfect for attaching brake lines to the inside of frames. Strong, would tamp vibration, insulate brake lines from abrasion and allow for expansion/contraction from temperature change. Anyone see a downside to this stuff?
     
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  15. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Been awhile since I posted but here is an update:

    I managed to buy the complete 312 powertrain out of a fairlane plus a seat from a ranchero and the steering column from a 59 wagon. A plus is that the engine and tranny only have about 47K on them and have never been opened up! So I am going to try and do a comp check next week and if she comes back good then in she goes-assuming the bearings are still good.

    I found out I have an oddball MC that Ford only used for 2 years in their cars and the major vendors don't sell them-of course. But my local NAPA was able to find a new one. So I am hoping to have the brake lines done by next week.

    I have bushings installed on three out of four control arms and they will go in late next week. The last one goes in next month after I get it out of the fab shop. But she will have all NOS ball joints and tie rods.

    Unfortunately, the diff has to come out so that I can replace all three seals-and that is all I hope. But, then she will go back in with new rear shocks installed.

    So there has been forward movement-not much but at least I am moving forward.

    Mike
     
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  16. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Well the heads are off! Used a block of wood and some tire irons and they popped right off easily, after a few good whacks. And this is what I found.

    GOOD-Some carbon ridge-albeit not all of the way around and just a very slight wear ridge. No major scoring, although there is one spot that can be seen and just barely felt. Standard bore, clean piston tops-more or less and Ford valves in the heads. Not bad for a sub 50K engine.

    BAD-some sludge, not much and it will get cleaned out when on the stand. some scale and goop in the antifreeze in the water jackets. Rust on some valve heads but I think that is from sitting in the yard. Found out the heads are low comp truck heads:( and not the correct ECZ-g heads. So I have a few options either get the correct 312 heads or shave these down and/or buy domed pistons to bring up the compression.


    Overall, she is in pretty good shape. Next up is to see what the bearing look like. What do you all think? Passenger head/block and then driver side head/block and finally #6 before scraping and after.



    Mike
     

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  17. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,709

    greybeard360
    Member

    FelPro blue head gaskets is a dead giveaway that it's been into since it was born. Those weren't around back then.
     
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  18. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Yep, learning more about OHV's and this engine daily. So far, I think the heads and exh. manifolds were replaced at some point. Why I don't know but the manifolds have 58-59 cast numbers on them.
     
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  19. Nothing so far that I've seen is sounding an alarm, but a close look at the bearing clamshells are probably going to tell you all you want to know. Thanks for keeping us up on your journey.
     
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  20. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 170

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Pulled both pans and she was decently clean. It is a true 312 with the correct caps. Need to decide if I am going to pull a main cap to check the bearings or just do the end cylinder rods.
     

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