Fiberglass scoop to metal hood

Have many of you tried this? I am wanting to run a T Bolt scoop on my nova . I have it already, and set it up on there a hundred times. I am thinking of making a template and bringing it up from the bottom so the lip is below the hood skin. Would body panel epoxy be strong enough to hold this? I figured I would cut the bracing out and trim for air cleaner and reweld it back in after the scoop is in.

 

The ones we used a long time ago normally had some little clips on the inside for screws then we glassed them to the hood. I have never seen one that has been on for 30 years so I don't know how well it really holds up but I did know some fellas that had them on for 5 or 6 years and they were holding up real well still with minimal cracking.

I can't tell you if there is a better way to do it but we always glassed them on.

 

If ya made it a "SHAKER",one that is actuly mounted to aircleaner and comes up through hole =that is trimed with that chrome plastic door edge. No worry about hood cracks.
Some designs don't let ya do that and others can be mod so ya can,trick was to flair lip base of scoop out to so rain would flow off to side of motor not on it.

 

Blasphemy!! Ford teardrops only look good on Fords. You'd never get away with that in the 60s. They'd laugh you out of the drive in. JMHO

 

I had an NOS tear drop that I gave to a kid that had a Fairlane. I really needed something to cover the carbs on the Stude but I just couldn't do it.

You are absolutely correct, you would even get a few guffas in the pits.

 

To answer your question, yes body panel adhesive would hold it.
That 3M shit is STRONG !

 

I know I know... But I didnt want a cowl style and not real fond of most style of scoops out and needed somthing to hide the hole in the hood. And I think it fits the body style of the car ok. And my buddy " A Ford Guy" Says I needed somthing from the blue oval on it to make it faster...lol

But if people laugh thats ok it runs good enough to have it I think. 406 2800 stall manual valve body and posi with 373s for now may go down to 411s . im getting ready to radius the rear wheel openings and run either a set of ansen slots I have or steel rears and some Real Radars on the front

 

Thank you

 

Yeah but if he puts a Ford Part on he will pick up a couple of tenth's for sure ....hee hee

 

Todays materials are so different then the ones we had 30-40 years ago that it should work fine, but to be on the safe side I would repace the hood springs with somthing a little lighter.

I on the other hand had VFN fiberglass build me a '65 Cuda hood w/ a teardrop scoop. Looks completly one piece,and all the same material and will never crack

 

What Tommy said.

 

I understand the ford thing goes on fords.. But look at this way. At least im not putting a chevy motor and cowl scoop on a fairlane .

 

I did one of those godawful PRO ST' scoops on a 40 Pontiac about 15 years ago and its still right where it was put with no cracks..I cut the exact hole size of scoop dropped it thru and glassed it on both side with short strand fiberglass filler[Bondo Glass brand]....

I also welded the two peice hood into a solid top on that and it was a tilt one peice frt as well...there is a pic of it on my work albumn in profile page if you wanna see it.

Its really all about a solid structure that does not move but minimally at best....That is why every Semi ya meet on the road has a Glass frt clip on em....

IT WILL STAND THE VIBTATION BETTER THAN METAL.....so when bonding Glass to a metal part ,vibration/movement is the enemy...

 

Do what ya wanna do! I ran a T Bolt hood blister on my first '55 Chevy in the 70's. I ran a '57 T Bird scoop on my second '55 Chevy. Even saved it for another build. See pic. Got thumbs up from the Hot Rodders. Purists hated it. If you want to stay Chevy install a Cowl Induction Hood.

 

Whenever you bond two materials of different moleciular composition strength isn't the issue, flexability is. As the different materials heat and cool they expand at different rates. Not amount of strength in a non-ductile bond can prevent this. A lowly drop of water can split a granite boulder if frozen. 3M 5200 series adhesives are specifically designed to bond plastic and fiberglass to metal, the adhesive dries forming a tight bond that is flexible. The filler material (catalyzed polyester e.g. Bondo) is generally flexible enough and you'll require flex additive in your clear coat when you paint it. Remember flexible, not strong and ridgid, is your goal. Excessively thick fiberglass resin is actually more likely to crack because it becomes brittle when it is too thick.

 

The panel adhesive is way strong enough. I used it to glue my trunk skin to the trunk frame and before I did I glued a test panel of the 3/4 square tubing and the .080 thick aluminum I used for the trunk and after 24 hours when I tried to pull it apart I tore the aluminum but the glue held. I would do just what you said, mount it from underneath and let the adhesive squish out around the outside then wipe it around nice and smooth. Let it dry good and use some Rage Gold filler to finish it. Should last a long time.

 

a (FORD) part that you could get away with and would be period correct would be to use a F600 hood scoop like the royal bobcat guys did

 

I plan on it, Thanks man. It will just add to the fun of the " Ford " Crowd getting worked up at cruise ins and the local track And I just want somthing other than a cowl hood you know. Just trying to be different . Thanks for the replies everyone. I will post up some pics when I cut into it and decide for sure.

 

I'm test fitting one of those on my truck as we speak, they are metal bolt on but you can also get them in fiberglass in 3 different sizes.

 

I used 2 part SEM panel bond for glas' to steel and screwed down a JC-Witless glas' teardrop scoop on a donated ratty bent hood. F'glas filler and then Rage worked for me. I like the idea if bonding it to bottom, try to show some pics...



Have Fun

 

The only chevy cowl scoop I liked was the L-88 version.. Seems like every Tom, Dick and Harry has the regular cowl scoop on their car...

 

That looks great powerband. I hope mine turns out that good

 

I made this one from a mold and installed it, there's a bunch of pictures in my bville car album. sooner or later they will crack.

 

Fer cryin' out load, it's a hotrod! We swap across car lines all the time! Damn purists!

 

We were actually talking about looks nothing purest about it.
Well tommy and I were, I don't know about the rest.

 

...fiberglass bubble hood has been on for at least 15 years.

 

Just remember fiberglass doesnt stick to metal ,So skin area around scoop with bodyfiller first,Then matting and glass.I always try to do this with filler a little wet ,Not dry .................

 

on my superbee i bolted it on with stainless screws ,that was look i was after

 

I have this one too, I thought about putting on my '56 hood. This 70's Trans Am scoop has been trimmed down a bit to be symmmetrical. Never did it because can't make up my mind which way to face it.

The panel adhesive sounds like the way to go....fiberglass does have a way of delaminating itself. Been there, done that.

 

Ok heres what I did. I made a cardboard template of the outside diameter and trimmed out the middle so that I had the exact shape of the scoop . I traced a pattern out and cut it out in one piece . then done some finale trimming to the inner bracing to fit. check it out so far the scoop is duct taped to the hood in the pic