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**February is for Bangin'** Feb 2013 Banger Meet

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,982

    97
    Member

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    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  2. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    Carter
    Member

    Bluto, I've got tons of respect for you, but I can barely stand the thought of an alternator on a model a engine. It's like 22" billet wheels on an otherwise original model A. It just seems wrong to me. Just my opinion, though.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  3. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    Carter
    Member

    Also, someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there is any functional difference between positive and negative ground in the closed loop of a DC automotive electrical system

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  4. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    In Poland we have to run with the lights on anytime we are driving hence the ALT....... Two bolts and the gen fits for showing. And no one knows

    I didn't figure all the above really didn't answer the question ask so ddn't include it BUT we do run and ALT on the woody in Poland
     
  5. Brendan1959
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 330

    Brendan1959
    Member

    I run an alternater as well an my A, I also have an original Powerhouse generator. I was thinking of gutting the powerhouse and fitting the alt inside. I just dont want to ruin it just yet, so I have been keeping an eye out for a dead one. Just a thought.
    Brendan
     

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  6. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    I hate the look of my alternator but I do like my very bright head lights at night. I do a lot of driving at night. There are no street light out in the back roads and most are posted 40-50 MPH and I hate rules so I am going faster then that most of the time. The little banger runs so go with the cold damp air at night its very hard not to give it hell up the back roads.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  7. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    All this talk about alternator / generator is not the simplest way. He's not running lights.

    Just run everything off the battery and charge the battery at night. Simple wiring. Battery to the starter, wire from battery to on/off switch, wire from switch to coil, wire from coil to distributor. All done!!!!

    I run an alternator and I think it looks as good as a generator.



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  8. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    Carter
    Member

    Good point, CDO. Is that a Powergen? Also tell me more about that water pump setup.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  9. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

  10. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    in defense of bluto , i have a model "A" for a daliy driver ( i do mean every day) . my only car . ive tried several generator with nothing but a pain . had one catch on fire ! i put a 1wire on & never looked back . but to each his own . ......... steve
    as they say .. once you try it youll never go back
     
  11. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    Carter
    Member

    thanks for the link. I have a cyclone head and cyclone adapter for the V8 water pump, but it is oriented straight up. Looking at yours I was wondering if a B pump could be used on it with that bolt orientation. I've never compared the 2 to see if bolt spacing is close.


    Edit: V4F posted while I was posting. I don't have an issue with folks wanting to run an alternator, I just personally hate how they look on a Model A/B or even a flathead V8 engine. I also know they have better output and generally are more reliable. I think the PowerGen or the alternator inside a Model A generator case would be a good option to avoid a modern looking alternator.
     
  12. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    The B W/P bolt patern is different then the Early V8.

    I modified the adapter by cutting it, clocking it @ 30* and welding it back together. I'm running '32 shell cut down 6". I had to rotate the pump so that the top hose didn't stick up above the radiator.

    '
     
  13. There is a company called FunCo or some such thing that makes electronic variable voltage regulators that allow the A generator to put out higher voltage or amperage including a 12 volts conversion. They look stock, replaces the cutout. The stock A has a cutout system that works fine when all is good. Meaning clean tight connections.

    A familiar sound to old model A drivers is that very quiet little squeak after you shut the engine off when the cutout shorts or sticks and tries to motor the generator and the slightly loose belt squeaks as the generator pulley turns slowly.

    Another thing that can and will happen at night is that the ground gets loose or some such thing interrupts the circuit and all the power dumps into the lights, WOW do the lights get bright just before the bulbs blow! A fuse in the line could help prevent this.

    The positive ground system will work just fine with a good ground. I connect a second ground to the trans. There can be just too much resistance in the 80 some odd year old riveted frame.

    I have to admit that I like the look of the modified generator though. Might consider that for my next street rod.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  14. rockman29
    Joined: Jul 2, 2006
    Posts: 82

    rockman29
    Member

    I also prefer the look of a generator over the alt. I think the power gen units look good but are pricey. I modified a V8 generator to mount on my B motor for the added output.
     
  15. This is the firm that makes the solid state regulator for the model A generator. They make them 1n 6 volt, 8 volt, and 12 volt positive or negative ground units for the model A generator. You just follow the instructions, get in and throw your head back and drive. But remember, follow the indrections or you will cook your battry (phonetic spelling for some areas) or it will slowly die.

    http://www.funprojects.com/products/10505r.cfm
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2013
  16. skryla
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 120

    skryla
    Member
    from Brick, NJ

  17. Got one of the "little things" done today. Had a moment to kill, so I stuck a newer 6v battery in the girl. Trimmed the rat's nest wiring away and reconnected the battery leads. With the plugs out, I bumped the banger over a few times. It was really all it could do since the battery was low. But I got it to turn over!

    Put the battery on a trickle charge and I'll try again tomorrow!

    Thanks for all the help, guys! I'll get 'er done eventually. It's like eating an elephant......one bite at the time!
     
  18. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,982

    97
    Member

    A suggestion.
    Use the crank handle to turn it over and reserve the battery for ignition.
    If it has enough guts to turn the engine then it will probably have enough to make it run, ...if you are supplying the turning power.( make sure you leave your thumb on the same side of the crank handle as your fingers, it feels awkward at first, but it sure beats a broken thumb, which you will get if you wrap your thumb around the handle and it backfires. )
    You can turn motor by hand to get points open and closed and check spark, even feel ( with a finger over the plug hole if there is a bit of compression in each cylinder.
    Timing is easy enough to check, static.
    If it has fuel , air, compression and spark(at the right time) it should run.
     
  19. Thanks 97, I'll have to try to find one of those hand cranks.......and I'll remember he thumb trick! Promise!

    It doesn't have fuel yet as I need to have my tank boiled out. The local radiator guy will boil it, dry it, treat it for $50. I'll just have to repaint it once he's done. And I'm sure the carb at least needs cleaning.....I might pull the one off the spare chassis and see which one is better. That's one luxury I do have....a spare chassis to pick and choose parts. Another option, I need to get some work done on my mower anyway.....I need to see if they have any extra old mower tanks sitting around, just for firing the banger off in the garage until I get the tank cleaned.

    Try to turn it over with plugs in it tomorrow....wish me luck!
     
  20. class 'A'
    Joined: Nov 6, 2004
    Posts: 346

    class 'A'
    Member
    from Casper,Wyo

    anyone recognize this carb?
     

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  21. skryla
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 120

    skryla
    Member
    from Brick, NJ

    Crazydaddo. What style of fan are you running? Any pics you cool share?
     
  22. The argument you started is still going on at the Barn, Ryan had to jump in again. You sure caused a couple of guy's to twist their underwear in knots. It is a recurring discussion. The purists, one in particular, try to insist hot rodding A's didn't start until the 50's or some such thing. My original Riley 2 port has 4 18 30 stamped in it. Riley quit making 2 port heads in the early 30's when he started making the 4 ports.

    I think the manifolds you inquired about probably both use the same internal cores and they just change the name and maybe the fins slightly. The Evans is different as is the original Thomas but the differences in them is easily seen.
     
  23. All stock, where do I start?

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  24. All stock, where do I start? Hitchhiker

    Join FAST, SOSS, then read every monthly banger meet since it started.
     
  25. Okay, banger gurus, help me out....

    Did a little more to the tudor this afternoon. I fixed a couple questionable test leads, then checked voltage at key locations (per my Les Andrews Mechanics Handbook Vol 1). At each location, I'm getting the proper 6V....starter block, each side of the coil, and at the points post just prior to the points. Also, I'm getting 6V to the rotor button from the coil.

    Then I put a plug in each plug wire and rested the plug over each hole in the head. Keep in mind, there's no fuel to the cylinders! When I push the starter rod in, the engine turns over, but I get NO spark at the plugs. Does this indicate the points and/or condenser is bad? What else should I be looking for?
     
  26. Take the cap off and check points gap. Then turn motor over and see if you have spark at the points. If not then change condenser.
     
  27. Thanks 62! That's where I was headed next! Glad my thinking was working in the right direction. I didn't see a spark at the points with the cap off.....going online for points and condenser set!
     
  28. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,458

    noboD
    Member

    Just disconnect the wire from the condensor and see if you have spark then. That will prove the condensor is bad.
     
  29. noboD, Which wire? The condenser is bolted in...no wires on the outside. Is there a wire inside that I need to disconnect?
     
  30. skryla
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 120

    skryla
    Member
    from Brick, NJ

    There's always going to be some guy full of hot air. The rest are just car guys looking to share information. I'm not much for rules. I'll still post there. Even with all the bs I still got great responses!

    [/B]B][/B]ways [/B]
     

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