The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Feb 1, 2022.
Yur welcome Larry!
I'm almost shocked at the balancing responses. Heck, in our local Model T club, even in our bone stock T engines we've seen the differences of balancing vs. non balancing. Even at low RPM's the difference in smoothness is VERY significant. I understand the properties of the 4 cylinder engine that while running it creates alot of vibration inherently, but any balancing helps on anything that is rotating.
I do not see the benefit of half taking apart an engine and half balancing the parts. I understand it can be done that way, and again, any balancing IMO is better than none, but just balancing the crank alone while you have the engine apart just seems like a futile exercise to me. Obviously opinions vary here.
I am not an expert, nor do I or have I run a Bonneville car (come from hot street car / drag racing backround), but I value all your opinions here. My experience lays in "modern" OHV V-8s primarily. I almost feel after reading I did something wrong by balancing my stuff the way I did.
Interesting reading tonight fellas
Checking in. Getting ready to install a T5 behind the new motor. It's a Camaro/S10 hybrid. Also rebuilding the rear axle at the same time. Changing to 4:11 gears.
I’m heading for San Diego Friday for a month. Thought I’d throw this Donovan and Brumfield head in the trailer incase somebody would like to buy one and is too cheap to pay the freight! $350 on the B-F head and $500 on the Donovan. PM me
Were are you getting the Trans adapter?
Miller's sells one but you need a AA bell housing
The adapters are from Dave at Vintage Metal Works. They adapt to a AA bell housing at the front and a closed driveshaft at the rear. I'm using an S10 4x4 tail housing and shaft.
Looks good ,
Made it to WV...3000 miles on a pint of fuel!!.(he had others to drop and reload) Gonna have to get out and drive it some when it warms up..new kid in town,Im pretty sure I have the only banger in Capon Valley,but you never know.146 miles to Hershey,113 to Carlisle..haven't been to the Hershey meet since '75...
I am sitting waiting on a delivery from Australia tomorrow................Pics to follow ......tomorrow
Anyone have any advice? ANYONE?!?!
I did all the trany stuff you asked about and would do it again if I was going to use a V8 trans again.
The 50's side shifter gears are a good improvement, I did it to mine, you do need the wider shift fork to fit the helical gears.
What would open drive get you? You got a trany with Torque tube and a rear with a tube, why go and do all the work for open drive? unless you plan on a more modern axle/trans in the future.
It is here !
A bigger drive shaft. J
Open it up, open it up, c'mon, open it up.
I plan to tomorrow, final push today to get a house built that I can live in comfortably ,been at this for months working 10 hours a day and am knackered -too knackered to appreciate what is inside the box!
Changing transmissions is a big plus for drivability over the stock A, speedier shifting equals more fun. If you change transmissions by all means lighten the flywheel at the same time. As long as you're cutting, take off the raised ring and go with the V8 pressure plate (the clutch disc is the same). The quickie sounds cool, but your stock Model A rear end is tough enough for the horsepower you can make with a flathead four banger. Save the money you would spend on rebuilding the quick change and 40 rear and spend it on a high compression head and performance cam. Don't wait to change carbs, a 94 will also wake things up ASAP.
Question, does anyone have experience with cork oil pan and valve cover gaskets? The package says not to use any additional sealer just the gasket itself. Currently have paper gaskets with gasket maker and have seepage.
Good to see all you guys still banger around !!!!!
i have tried all the tricks with no luck . even changed pans . im not sure you can get it leakless .
tried the no leak pan gasket set up , still leaked . if you find a way , please let us know .. steve
Good to see you around!!
What's going on
Cork will seep some too, in my experience.
I use Loctite 5699 sealant and buy it in a pressurized tube. It is more expensive but when it sets up in the nozzle, you can remove the nozzle and clear the plug. That way you can get the use of most all the contents. Don't get faked out by a 'valve cover' leak opr the return tube on a A engine
Also seal each fastener individually, you might try sealant on the bolt heads before you go to cork, especially if you look at it and see a drip forming on the head. Extra sealant in the 'corners'.
good luck and hope this is understandable......
Need some advice that I havent been able to find searching the forum
Ive built a Model A chassis running a 4" dropped SoCal front axle; rear suspension is a reversed eye main leaf and three other leafs on top and 4 cut short leafs under the main leaf to fill out the pack; juice brakes - not yet plumbed; 35 wires with 750 Firestones on the rear and 600 on the fronts. Im worried I have too much rake and would like to get the rear down more and am thinking about stepping the chassis using the Tardel method (2 1/2"). Will the rear unsplit radius rods hit the chassis when it bottoms out if stepped? Hoping someone has stepped there otherwise stock banger set up that can provide advice TIA
good looking job .....
@Kewl65 have you thought about a T spring?
My coupe sits approximately 5" lower than stock with no step-up in the frame.
A friend had the original A spring's eyes reversed and the main leaf shortened and re-set to lower his coupe. but I have not seen that as yet.
Speedway has a medium arch spring that may do WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR
TBH I didnt think I would get much more drop out of a T spring than I have out of my reversed Model A eye spring with the leaves rearranged and they are hard to come by in Australia
i have a 4" drop axle . rear i used a reverse eye "A" spring with a couple of leaves taken out . worked well . now i use coil overs ........... steve
I have this reversed-eye spring in my roadster pickup. Five leaves with two dummies on the bottom, and the spring ends dropped about two inches. Still not as low as a T spring; I will eventually replace this with a reversed-eye T spring because the bend in this spring makes contact with the top of the axle housing. After 12 years I'm seeing wear on the weld on the top of the axle tubes. (The spring is unloaded in this picture as the axle is out of the truck)
well I opened the box and to my surprise........there was a free Tshirt ! well worth the money fits real nice and has a nice logo,there was an alloy casing in there too , it is even nicer and looks to be good quality.The back cover is a good snug fit without being mad tight to get off and the shaft is a nice fit in the bearing .Well worth the money if you are looking for one.
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