The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jan 31, 2018.
JUST SAY...... PETRONIX, PLEASE..... MINE HAS WORKED SINCE THE 1990'S
Pertronix (formally Per-Lux Ignitor) was originally designed for stationary engines running 24/7 and fork lifts. First shot at automotive market was VW off road racers. Been using them on classics, boats and daily drivers for thirty years. Only issues (2) were self inflicted. Model A and early Ford applications were developed by Mickey Remund, Mickey Thompson's engine builder. Remund sold to FS five or six years ago. Excellent customer service.
ive used fsi for years now with no trouble
If you don't care for authenticity, I too can highly recommend the Weber set-up! Bolted on my tudor in '09, moved from A to B to AA engine, and just started making troubles last year, overfeeding the engine (it's at half milage, as when installed) - but I got mine with a electronic fuel pump, which I suspect is too high in pressure, and might have ruined the floater valve, or it might be those newer, ethanol enriched gasolines, the danish petrol companies has been legislated to sell...
PULL THE TOP OFF THE CARB ... TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN ... MAKE SURE THE FLOAT DOESN'T CONTAIN FUEL ... BLOW INTO THE FUEL INLET AND SEE IF THE "FLOATER VALVE'' IS PASSING AIR. IF NOT GET A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR AND SET THE PRESSURE AT 1 1/2 LBS MAX..... USE A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE TO MEASURE IT AS MOST OF THE NUMBERS ON THE REGULATORS ARE MEANINGLESS.
ADJUST THE PRESSURE AND REINSTALL THE TOP.
START THE ENGINE AND WHEN WARM USE A VACUUM GAUGE TO ADJUST THE MIXTURE SCREWS TO THE BEST IDLE VACUUM.
TEST DRIVE IT
IF YOU STILL HAVE A PROBLEM:
REMOVE THE CARB.
ADJUST THE IDLE STOP SCREW TO CLOSED AND LOOK TO SEE THERE IS NO LIGHT LEAKING BY THE THROTTLE DISCS ... TO CHECK FOR A BENT SHAFT... THIS HAPPENS OFTEN.
IF YOU SEE NO LIGHT THEN PULL ALL THE JETS INCLUDING THE ONE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FLOAT BOWL, CLEAN ALL THE JUNK OUTTA HE FLOAT BOWLS BOTTOM AND BLOW ALL JETS AND PASSAGES CLEAN. I DO THIS OVER A WHITE CLOTH TO SEE WHAT COMES OUT. IF THERE'S A LOT OF CRUB THEN ALSO FIT A REAL FUEL FILTER. NOT A "FILT-0-REG'' PLEASE THIS BRAND DOES NEITHER FILTER OR REGULATE
PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, BACK ON, AND SET THE MIXURE AND IDLE SCREWS TO BEST STEADY VACUUM.
IF THAT DOESN'T HELP. PLEASE REMOVE THE CARB AND THROW IT AS FAR AS POSSIBLE WITH YOUR EYES CLOSED SO YOU CAN'T FIND WHERE IT WENT AND GET ANOTHER CARB.... OR SWITCH TO LPG.
I got a whole 3 miles from one once! Went back to magneto!
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joe , you musta hooked it up wrong . my FSI has ran daily for like 5 years .................. steve
(do you still have my dampener)
I thought you had it shipped from Ron, at Damper Dudes? I haven't been to his shop since October. I cleaned it all up on the lathe and cut the grooves deeper and dropped it off with him to repair the Vulcanizing! He claimed it was out of warranty! I told him to vulcanize it anyways and that you would get a hold of him. If you're going to the Autorama this weekend I can bring it with me?
I have emailed FSI twice about purchasing a new distributor. Still awaiting a reply. Any tips on how to get hold of them? Or someone who is a dealer.
The FSI install was basic, I either got a bad one or my engine shook it to death!?
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shook it to death ............ good one
Speak to Graham at Macspeed
try a vendor . many carry FSI
what is the pros and cons between an FSI and a professionally rebuilt Mallory on a 7:1 with a winfield grind cam.
I would think the dependability & no maintenance FSI
AS STEVE SAYS...... NO RARE PARTS NEEDED ...EVEN THE CAP AND ROTOR LAST LONGER. I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE ELECTRONICS SMOOTH OUT SOME OF THE LAG OF POINTS/CONDENSER SYSTEM. THIS IS A GOOD THING WHEN WE HAVE WIDE RATIO GEARBOXES.
A little gathering for lunch today, I gotta,keep an eye on Jake as he really likes my original gas cap lol
Seems I’m no longer getting updates on new posts .
I’m starting to tear down my motor after my rod babbit collapsed and starting to look at my options .
What clearance should my main Babbitts be at ?
And are rod insert bearings of any benifit with out the comparable main insert bearings ?
I’m toying with rather than just repairing what’s wrong and running it hopping it up a touch and finding a little more umph . On a stock B motor where are the biggest performance gains to be found ? Ideally I’d like to end up with a car that’ll run happily all day at 60-65 , this realistic without selling a kidney ?
Rocker any more pictures of your car , such a cool looking machine!
babbit sets at .015 - .020 . I believe to run inset rods the crank has to be radiused . check my thoughts .........
I'm thinking that you meant .0015 and .002 for clearances. Othewise...really noisey and short lived, eh ..lol
Decimal point in the wrong place. Should read .0015" - .002"
thank you for the correction . seems I never have enough 000000
Don’t worry my back account suffers from the same issue !
I was recently talking to Dave ( fourspd2quad ) here on the HAMB who makes cast aluminum hotrod parts, if he could make a finned cast aluminum side timing gear cover for the model A/B Ford banger. The attached pictures show what he has come up with. He will probably be able to cast these in a few weeks time, but final pricing is not yet known. Is anyone else interested in getting one?? His website is https://www.throwback.design if you are interested in seeing some of his other work.
Wow ,thanks Waxhead for the link. He sure makes some cool gear.
I would be interested based on price. Front timing covers and valve chamber covers too if he were considering casting other banger parts. Good looking parts on his site. Might pick up a throttle arm or two.
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WHO MADE THIS FINNED COVER??
SORRY FOR THIS PHOTO BUT IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE INTAKE YOU'LL SEE THE FINNED COVER ..DOESN'T BOLT IN ANYWHERE ONLY SITS THERE AGAINST THE BLOCK
Put the 16" wires on my Zipper about 20 years ago and used the spacers for the hydraulic drums. Going to Speedway Vintage steel wheels and trying to determine if I need the spacers. If memory serves me, the spacers were necessary for putting 16" wires on stock Model A mechanical drums.
Question: do I need the spacers with steel wheels on hydraulic drums? Thanks in advance
if you are talking the shims on the axle , I have always used 2 on each side with no problems
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