The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Feb 1, 2016.
Don't hold back.... Slap a stick with bigger lady lumps and run it....
Bigger lady lumps.... Never heard that one. Haha.
How big do you recommend???
For my self.....
I had a B cam I couldn't tell the difference over a A cam.
That was with a hart shaped head and a 94 carb.
Touring cam was better
Then I swapped to my Simmons head that was a improvement
73 mph on gps running down the highway
Winfield A1 cam 2 97s is my favorite combo
Loose a little on the bottom end but it pulls real nice in the mid and top end
From my Simmons head to the Thomas head I couldn't feel any difference seat of the paints
Just make sure the bottom end is in tolerance, many a good running motor blows when you tweak it up and run it hard. When I was a teenager we would drive the a's 55which was the speed limit and most used engines would shake a rod loose cause we never checked the lower end cause why bother, you could pick up another engine for less than having a Babbitt job. Junk yards were full a them at $10 to $20 a pop.
Been there, done that. Also took some apart and pulled shims out of the loose bearings, After this ''precision adjustment'' and with the engine in the car, if 12V to the starter wouldn't turn it over to get it running, we would tow the car around the field --in gear--until it loosened up. One never did-- the rear wheels just slid. One, the center main babbitt was all busted up, so we broke the remaining pieces out of the block and cap, and substituted some soft aluminum sheet of the ''correct'' thickness. That one ran quite a while. After my lifelong buddy died, my sons and I were cleaning out his work area, and tacked up to one of the rafters was a poem that I wrote, probably in the early 50's
Ode to a rod
I hear you thumping, little rod, pounding out your babbitt
If I ignore you rapid raps, it's strictly 'cause of habit.
The only thing I ask of you is that you stay in your place.
If you have to break
For goodness sake
Don't come out through the 'case.
Those WERE the days, my friend!
Buddy of mine used a piece of thick copper flashing I gave him to replace some babbit in his roadster to make the first TROG. It was the correct thickness. I think the new owner is still running with it.
Machined a set of aluminum bearings for the B rods in my pickup. After a couple years of daily use, I sold the truck. That was in 1966. New owner used the truck for daily transportation until he retired. At that point, his kids began to see if they could blow it up. Last that I heard, they were still trying. This was an A block, with a B non-counterweighted crank that I turned (not ground) the mains to A size.
Quite a few of the shops that did Babbitt would just grind the crank to cleanup not standard size then bore the Babbitt to fit so you couldn't buy rods off the shelf to fit. The reason for this was to remove as little material as possible from the crank not to force you to have a babbit job done. I have 2 cranks that are like .023 undersize I have a diamond A block that is .013 undersize on the stand now that I'm ready to fit the original rods. If you shop you can find main shim sets with the shims .002 or .003. thick. Not sure on the rod shim sets.
damn feb is gone already
Link to march 2016 banger meet http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...eet-more-daylight-to-work-on-bangers.1010716/
JohnNeilson: what type of crankshaft allows a 1-3-2-4 firing order? On a Banger motor?
like this one
Thanks J.N. That shaft throw positioning makes sense. Never seen one before.
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