The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Feb 1, 2012.
Just what I was looking for...............!
You've gotta love this HAMB thing!...................!
Here is a link to a nice conversation on combustion / cylinder head design from the Ford Barn:
Some pics of my Ross Pistons
Nice looking car you got there Herb.
Was thinking the same - and noticing the lack of money in my bank account...
Cheers for the piston porn pictures! I'm hoping to take the block to the machinists and see if the pits will clean out to a standard oversize next week.
From what I've read, particularly with the smaller ENFO banger, shrouding only limits the engine when you're literally in the top state of tune, looking for the highest revs and looking for that last extra horsepower that will beat the other guy in the race. For day to day engines where you're not using high revs, bumping the compression right up is a very cheap way of extracting power from today's grades of gas. I was typically running 8:1 to 9:1 compression on my little banger (depending which head I used) with the top of the combustion chamber as tight to the top of the valve as I could get away with. On the stock cam it immediately woke the engine up, on the bumpy cam with a big carb it was a little screamer that was a lot of fun
For a slight change of pace. Here is the oil pump mounted on the non-Ford banger. Took a lot of holding it up and looking at where the hoses would go. Now to mount the fuel pump to drive off of the oil pump.
I missed it the other day.
I have been trying to find some drawings, with dimensions, to enable me to make some counterweights for my A crank, can anybody help? or point me in the right direction.
I think I saw a print in one of my buddy's
secrets of speed. I gave them back so I can't scan it
posted these on the Chevy banger thread, but wanted to share- one of Stevie G's students needed a senior project, so here are some roller rocker mockups for the Olds 3 port head. I picked up some slightly used rockers off of espay for $20 and scavenged the usable parts:
I've used Isky roller rockers in some old motors .... just milled them for a roller cage and fit them to the rocker shaft. Had to fit a lash cap too.
VW Elephant foot works in some engines too
Stevie's student is doing this as a senior project and apparently, he's excited about it!... slave labor alive and well in our schools
Any thoughts on ratio? Right now, it's at 1.7 to 1. I would think that would help, since the the diameter of the cam is limited.
10 BTDC AND 10 ATDC is where the valve/piston usually gets close. 0.60 is as close as you want to get!!!
Get some ''bite paper'' from a dentist and check too see your not running off the valve stem. I use lash caps to increase the effective valve stem dia. but running on the edge can be real rough on the valve guides. In my pre-war BMW engines the stock rockers are so short a valve job just doesn't last long AND there is no way to move the rocker shaft!
It's all about trial and retry!
Hey, do you have any pics of the Webers you sliced in half?
Mac, the rockers I made had 1.72 ratio & with cam lift .27 gives .464 valve lift less lash. this much lift requires good quality springs even at conservative rpm's. Keep on a truckin' looks good, Pat
Thanks for the info and encouragment Pat! Can't tell you how good it is to see things moving AND to know that an 18 year old is excited about what we're doing.
If you still have those plans for the items you made for the S/G engine, I'm still interested in them- Stevie mentioned that the class is taking notice and getting interested as well
Mac, I'll scan some of my handmade drawings & see if they are readable, not everything I do is a CAD dwg. Pat
As I pointed out on the '28 Chevy site, all that lift isn't necessary for the type engine that you have in mind, and only adds to the load on the rest of the parts, as Pat pointed out.
I am still interested also!
I just checked the lift on a "dual grind" cam stamped Winfield SU out of a Riley 4 port sprint car engine. Total lift on exhaust was .375. Total lift on intake at lifter/valve in block for check purposes was .360. Rocker ratio 1.3 gives .468 lift at intake valves. Valves were double sprung. Lack of lubrication with heavy springing destroyed the rocker arms and wear pads on valve stems.
Some historical trivia, Original Riley cast iron heads had no pressure oiling to rockers. Rockers were lubricated with felt pads over the rockers. They were lubricated by soaking the felt pads before a race or by oiling at 500 mile intervals. Each cover had 2 oilers or ended up with just holes to oil the pads
My T-head Mercer also used felt pads to oil the valve stems it kept the springs and cam followers wet too ... they worked far better than one would think
I've no photos of the cut Webers sorry.... that was a long time ago
ford print of the B weight
I need to locate my stock "B" main caps on my block so I can line bore the block for inserts. Some guys say don't worry the caps will align themselves and everything will be just fine. I don't think much of that approach and would like to hear from others how they have positively located their "B" caps. On an "A" you can use tubular dowels, but on a "B" the dowel will protrude into the main bearing saddle and you will have to bore a good portion it away. Has anyone tried centerless grinding a 5/8" grade 8 to .001 under the main bearing bolt bore dia., cutting a shoulder to 1/2" at the threaded end and single point new threads? My guess is that you would have to reheat treat the finished product. Any input would be appreciated.
I will have to go out in the cold and look but there should be room for 3/16 pin off to the side.
I think I would just make new bolts before I started turning lager bolts down.
4X, there is not as much room on #1 caps for pins as the rear cap. What's wrong with boring part of a tubular dowel away? It will still locate the cap and not weaken anything further. Also the holes in the block vary in size and you would have to make dedicated bolts for each hole and then match the cap. This much work would certainly keep you out the bars for awhile. But I understand the need to make parts & express yourself, that's part of this hobby. Pat
Thanks... now I can stay worm
I have used thin sleeves over the bolts/studs to locate caps remember these don't need to be structual just locate the cap while you assemble the engine
On caps that have no room. I make a stub the size of the main and slow tighten cap with the well greased stub in place. This locates the cap pretty well as long as your careful.....
There are new steel caps for front and middle on a ''B'' ... the ones I are larger and have pins in them
All you need to do is make the caps repeatable everytime
Pat, I understand what you are saying and that most likely would be the best way. This is a touring engine and the only reason I am doing inserts is someone else screwed up some machine work and this action is salvage. You are right about the tubular guides, little would be lost when bored away. The best way would be to use steel caps at 1 & 2 then pin them the same as the rear main. This is what I want to to in my other engine that wont be used for touring.
Has anyone used a tubular dowel that ran all the way thru the cap and stayed in the cap instead of being pressed into the block? Anyone know how to hold the caps in place while boring for dowels, one thru bolt and side clamping then reverse the thru bolt location?
Hey there banger brothers. Just tore apart the engine I have been using in my speedster for about a year and it has a bunch of mud in the cooling ducts.
If anyone knows how I can flush it without taking the whole thing apart would you please PM me.
I know the best way is to take it all out and tear it down but I don't have that kind of time.
If anyone knows the location of a good running engine or clean lock that would help too.
Separate names with a comma.