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FE porting advice?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by s55mercury66, Jan 1, 2014.

  1. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,344

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I did a search here, and looked around the internet too, without much success. I'm looking for some tips on porting a set of D2 heads for my 410 FE. Other than a flow bench, I have all the tools needed, and all the time in the world. Can anyone help?

    Thanks, Don.
     
  2. cooke
    Joined: Jan 13, 2011
    Posts: 75

    cooke
    Member

    If you haven't already; you might do a search over on "Speedtalk" forums. Lots of info and pics get posted up too.
    Not sure how much porting/ head-work experience you have (so as not to insult you); but you may just have to jump off into yours and find your own way through them. If at all possible; try grinding on a spare or one that maybe is ruined or cracked already, before you attack the good ones you plan on using.
    Hopefully you have access to a pretty "savvy" machine shop that can do a good valve job with multiple angles on the seats and have them put 30* or 32* back-cuts on the valves (above the seat angles) depending on how mean you're going to get with valve lift.
    I've done lots of SBC's, BBC's Pontiacs, Buicks, etc., just never have done a set of the F.E."s. Wish I could offer you more; but can't. Best of luck.
     
  3. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,103

    FrozenMerc
    Member

  4. mattrod68
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 517

    mattrod68
    Member

    from all i have gathered, dont touch the floor. just the sides and the top of the ports.
     

  5. johnsjmc
    Joined: Jan 2, 2014
    Posts: 1

    johnsjmc
    Member
    from canada

    bigger 428 CJ valves and a port match would be the route I would look at before any porting
     
  6. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,344

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Port matching is definitely going to happen. I'm not sure if I will go to the larger CJ valves just yet. Thanks for the responses, gentlemen.
     
  7. slickhale
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 772

    slickhale
    Member
    from Phoenix

    Unless you are building a radical fe the larger valves aren't really worth the effort. Since the head ports are so short with the fe most of your flow improvements will be in the manifold. As mentioned before leave the floor alone and concentrate on the sides and roof above the valves. You really don't need to remove much, just blending really. I have built a 410 before, it was probably the most smile and tire smoke inducing engine I've ever done.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  8. A nice port match and a good valve job by someone that knows what they are doing will be your best bet for a street engine. I've seen lots of heads screwed up by folks going hog wild by taking material from where they shouldn't. As others have said stay away from the floor of the port.
     
  9. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,344

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    This is what I am really asking, Troublemaker. What areas would benefit most (valve guide bosses, bowl area perhaps?), and what areas to leave alone (short side radius, port floor?). Thanks, Don
     
  10. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,344

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

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