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Fat Mat installation tips?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rocket88, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 911

    Rocket88
    Member

    After driving my car for the first time this summer, I quickly discovered the importance of floor insulation.
    It's like driving a Libby's bean can on a barbecue!
    After researching some older posts, I decided on Fat Mat.
    I bought the 100 sq. foot kit, that includes a little wooden roller.
    I want to do the firewall and the floor with 2 layers.
    I've never used this stuff before, any tips or tricks to make the installation go smooth?
     
  2. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,017

    26 roadster
    Member

    Don't try to do it all in one piece! be smart with your cuts
     
  3. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,882

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

  4. chaos10meter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,191

    chaos10meter
    Member
    from PA.

    I use contact cement to install it.
    Pre cut your pcs. to fit.
    Smear floor/ firewall what ever with contact cement, then smear it on insulation.
    While still wet ( I don't let them set up like you are supposed to) I place in position and move around to position, then roll/press them out.
    Not saying it's the proper or best way, it's just the way we do it.
     

  5. 1arock
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 124

    1arock
    Member

    I've used Fat Mat on several projects and really like the stuff,especially for the price. It is self adhesive, cut it to fit before removing the backing, it is does not stick over dirt or oily surfaces. I mostly have used it on bare steel or freshly painted stuff. Roll all the bubbles out of it or when it heats up the bubbles will grow. Sometimes I have poked a little hole to get it to roll out smooth, small pieces seem to be easier to place and it sticks to itself really well.
     
  6. Laphroaig63
    Joined: Feb 21, 2011
    Posts: 4

    Laphroaig63
    Member

    Gloves for sure, sharp blades, screwdriver handle (those little wooden rollers suck) and a heat gun!

    Warming up the pieces helps get it around the contours on the floor and gets the adhesive sticky.

    make sure your surface is clean and be sure to keep track of mounting holes and bolts too. its easier to make cuts to expose them as go rather than waiting till the end.
     

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  7. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,543

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    Make sure the surface is CLEAN.....

    And I agree with everything mentioned above but never have done the contact cement thing with a self adhesive backing on this so cannot agree or disagree with that. :D
     
  8. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    As said above, don't try to work with big sheets. After peeling the backing off, don't allow the sticky side to touch itself or it will instantly & permanently bond to itself. I don't think I'd try contact cement because this stuff is so sticky it doesn't need it.

    You can puncture bubbles with a razor to flatten them out and you can make slices in it to get it to go into the deep grooves in your sheetmetal.

    Some guys get real picky about sealing seams, but if you want it just as sound deadener, you don't have to wallpaper everything perfectly for it to work.

    I'd try a single layer before doubling it up. You may not need any more than one.

    By the way, "Peel and Seal" in the Lowes or Home Depot roofing department makes a 6" x 25' roll that's good for small areas. At $16-$17 it's a bargain.
     
  9. jcapps
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 473

    jcapps
    Member
    from SoCal

    clean surface, measure twice cut one, do not waste it. Small pieces can be used so do not throw them out. I just did a complete car and the only waste I had was a 2" x 3" piece. Think it out and plan, then cut. Use a good roller and I take a 1/2" thick by 2" wide piece of wood, round and bull nose the edge and use that for ribbed areas and corners
     
  10. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 911

    Rocket88
    Member

    Thanks guys, those tips will save me some time and grief!
    Our local Home Depot (in Canada) doesn't carry Peel & Seal.
    The Fat Mat is well priced, it landed to me at $1.44 per square foot.
    That included the cheap wood roller and box cutter.
    Peel & Seal looks like it's around $1.35 a square.
     
  11. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 7,091

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I use the foil tape (not duct tape!) sold in the heating duct section at Home Depot or Lowes to seal the seams. Not sure if it's needed, but it does tie it all together and make it hold well. The foil tape is very sticky, and has a paper back that is peeled off. Be sure to use short, manageable strips, or you'll end up with it sticking to everything while trying to get it in place.
     
  12. I did my car in the summer and was able to let it soak in the sun which helped it conform much easier.
    My best tool for stretching and forming it was a sharpie, I suppose a rounded off stick would work too.

    Definatley a heat gun if you are doing it in the winter.

    Made a big difference in my tin can, you can actually hold a conversation with the windows down driving on the freeway.

    <a href="http://s1133.beta.photobucket.com/user/TZandell/media/59%20ElCamino/IMG_1102.jpg.html" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>

    and if your friends are like mine, be prepared for transformer carpet jokes until you get it covered.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2014
  13. mattrod68
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 524

    mattrod68
    Member

    dont waste the material with two layers. the guy who owns fatmat and runs the booth told us it is a diminishing returns type thing like 2 layers is only ten percent better, save it for the roof, trunk and cmpletely cover the inside of the door skin and the metal door panel (inside facing out)
     
  14. dt50chev
    Joined: Mar 15, 2005
    Posts: 596

    dt50chev
    Member

    Definitely use a heat gun. Warm the metal a bit and the material before applying it. Makes it conform more easily and the adhesive works better as well.
     
  15. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 911

    Rocket88
    Member

    Made some progress the last few days.
    Tools of choice, heat gun, gloves and the wood hande from my window squeegy.
     
  16. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 911

    Rocket88
    Member

    Forgot the pic:rolleyes:
     

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  17. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 1,324

    Jet96
    Member
    from WY

    I found that one of those heavy duty rubber flooring rollers at H D is the only thing stout enough to mash the stuff in. Most rods aren't big enough to get that technical with tho :) X 2 on the heat gun.
     

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