Also, look on the pass side of the block for a casting nuber. It would be something like C4DE-H or such. That will help a lot.
Yup, grabbed a DUI (only one with the 1/4" shaft for my early 144) HEI distributor, and a Weber 32/36 (from my local VW house, as directed by Need Louvers?, for $40!). Got an adapter for the Weber and regulator from Classic Inlines. All of this goes on this week, as my accelerator pump cam arm broke, and driving without an accelerator pump kinda sucks. The T5 should be going in in the next couple of weeks. Ten things at-a-time.
I'm not obsessed, just want to know what to look for, was going to check it today but wanted to know what to look for first. Thanks for all the information guys.
Great motors - I rebuilt my 65 ford fairlane 200 six ,also put several clutches in it (only a little guy ) . My 65 fairlane had a 8" rear axle and got 22-24 mpg driving around town .
If it is a 64 and it's the original motor, it can't be a 200 - only Fairlanes had the 200 in 64. Mustangs and Falcon's didn't get the 200 untill 65 model year.
A friend has this one for sale. Also an picture of an Aussie head, which is not for sale but only shown FYI.
I am just finishing up a T5 install in an OT 72 Comet...Even though I had a 4 spd top loader in the car the T5 required my having to raise the trans tunnel from the shifter area forward about 1"..Surprised me..
Brand new T5z [ford 87/93 must application] that I changed the 5th gear from the .68 to a .80 ratio..Non world class trans [must/tbird 4 cyl] has the same o/all dim and comes with .82 fifth gear but first is 4.03 and with my 3.89 rear would have been way too short..And I was told that I have the big tunnel, size was increased in 71'..
The 200 was avaialble in 64 and you usually see it in the Rnacher and wagons but I do know where a factory T-Code 200 64 hardtop is
I am working on putting in a T5 from an S10. I am running a 144, have a 3.56:1 rear, taller than stock tires, and live in a city with 17%-19% grades, so I am leaning towards the 4.03 gearset. This will drop my RPM at 65 by about 500, in top gear (.86). The 3.76 gearset would drop the RPM by about 1000, in top gear (.72), which I think would stuff my little 144. The tunnel will be modified, as necessary to get the driveline angle correct. A local guy here has a wagon with the same floor pan as mine, running an S10 T5. His information has proven invaluable. I grew up in New England, so I am a whiz with floor pans and tunnels.
""I grew up in New England, so I am a whiz with floor pans and tunnels"" I think I know what you mean but in my case I almost cried..My Comet was bought new by me and only has 15k miles, never seen snow and was in the rain twice; yeah I can be anal at times ...Your choice of trans ratio will I think be good, you will gain something at both ends..
Cars like that are often hard to find in New England. I feel your pain. I grew up just south of the P&W Middletown facility, right above the snow/rain line. Salted roads suck.
""Salted roads suck"" Amen to that..I cringe every time I crawl under the 92' F150 I have, also bought new but a daily driver, to change the oil..
Is there another distributer that can be used when doing a carb swap that doesn't get up into the few hundreds? The DUI would be nice, but out of reach at the moment.
Ya, a Ford Dura Spark II. from about 74 and up they got a nice electronic ignition with a larger cap that is quite tunable to our needs. The stock pre'68 stuff has a complete vacuum advance system that very rarely ever works on cars these days and is the very first thing I change on a Falcon six. I hid my power box in plain sight on the firewall and made a nice harness to the engine. Wiring is simple and it works great. Other than the ease of recurving, I honestly can't think of one reason the DUI stuff is soooo popular with Falcon folk. The thing is about as ugly as it gets!
If you have a 144 or an early 170 (small distributor bore, 1/4" oil pump drive), the DUI may be your only choice, unless you are up for dropping the pan, changing the oil pump/drive, and throwing your brand new distributor in a lathe.... Just put mine in today. It may be ugly, but it was a night and day improvement over the stock distributor. I changed nothing else but that, and the plug wires, 'cause I wanted to see what it alone would do. Even set it to the same initial advance. Better acceleration at all speeds, smoother running all-around. It even appears to be using less fuel. Took a much longer trip home, on less fuel than the shorter one. Keep in mind, you will get much this same benefit from a DSII, as well. Everything is better than the Load-O-Matic.
Nice six there! I put a T5 behind my 170, the install wasn't bad and I have only run briefly due to some other upgrades. I used a 4cyl T5 out of a 91 mustang. My 64 has an 8 inch rear with 3:50 gears so hopefully it'll be okay. Speaking of distributors can a person use one of those electronic ones that elimnate the points, that just go under the dizzy cap or aren't they any good? They seem pretty cheap, but maybe they are too cheap?
Chip,it looks like I'll be hitting you up for some advise pretty soon as I just bought a 1965 Ranchero. 200/6 c4 pretty much stock. Don't know what the engine came from as it came stock with a 170. I will be grabbing the 260 from Greggy tho to stick in later! Hope to thrash on it this weekend after the swap.
This is turning out to be a most informative thread. I hope folks will continue to post their ideas and information about these Falcon 6 engines as well as the cars in general.
I've got a 64 Falcon wagon with a 170, I guess it could be a 1/4 drive or a 5/16, I haven't pulled it out to check yet. I'd like to see how your s10 trans swap works out and what is involved in putting one in.
When you're at a swap meet, keep your eyes open for old Mallory distributors. The ones with an I.D. number of 414 or 470 are for the 1/4 hex engines, and the 493 distributor is for the 5/16 hex engines.
The stock distributor is an odd-duck. It has no centrifugal advance weights. It is 100% vacuum operated. It is controlled by a valve in the carburetor, called the Spark Control Valve. If you put an electronic trigger in to replace the points, you will still have the weird, slow, oft-dysfunctional vacuum control system. In any other, non-Load-O-Matic distributor, a Pertronix Ignitor is an awesome thing. Just in this case, the real issue is not the points, but the whole distributor.
COOL MIKE!!! Come down and race the wagon around the neighborhood and maybe we will pervert you enough to keep the six! Trust me, you'll dig it, and gas wise life is soooooo much better.
gimpyshotrods speaks the truth!!! If you have a pre '68 six the very first thing you should do is grab the Crap-O-Matic distributor with both hands, rip it out and trow it as far as you can!!! I like the Dura Spark stuff myself, but DUI and others work well too.
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