Hey all, Did a search but couldnt find what I was looking for...Im getting ready to redo the engine in my Country Sedan. It has factory ac and is complete, but the unit was not functioning when I got the car. Question is: How well does the a factory '60 Ford AC system work and will it cool the wagon in 100+ degree heat without the radiator blowing its top? Is there any mods I should make to the system so that it is more efficient? Good vendors for rebuilt/rebuilding parts? Thanks.
If it is still the factory set up, you will probably want to switch to a more efficient compressor such as a sanden. Also change the condensor and the drier. Be sure to get the evaporator core checked because you will be a fu--ed pilgrim if you do all that work and the evaporator turns out to have a leak in it. Classic auto air sells early ford evaporator cores, compressor conversion mounts, and they have misc parts like the chrome round vents. Vintage air sells an improved condensor which is of their own design. They are another good company, but it seems like everyone one on here has there favorite. Best of Luck.
What he said. Also, if thats an old style POA valve or similar, you'll have to ditch it for a 134a friendly option. Get the biggest condenser you can fit.
Before you jump to the conclusion that the Sanden compressors are better keep one thing in mind they are not all the same size,most of the aftermarket ones being sold in the $200-$250 range actually are about 1/3 smaller capacity than the original York compressors which are still being used in some big rigs.Check ebay and you will find tons of listings under "Sanden Compressor" so if you make the switch be sure you get a larger unit and check the mounting distances to see if it will fit the conversion bracket you have,you also have to change the expansion valve to an R134a unit and the hoses to the newer barrier style.That being said you can still find R-12 which will cool better than the R134a,really the only advantage with the Sanden other than it's "non-traditional" look is they draw less horsepower when operating,less capacity = less horsepower draw.If you stay R-12 you won't have to make any changes to speak of,have a good shop evacuate and flush the system and check for leaks and charge it.The old system will need a thorough flush before converting to R134a or you will get "black death" which will cost BIG $$$ to fix.
In general, the R-12 systems in older cars worked pretty well. We had an R-12 system in our old RV and it worked quite well. Also a pontiac fiero an old mercedes, and a couple 60's and 70's cars in the past worked well. While I can't speak for your particular car, I think R-12 worked a little better than 134a. If you want to switch to 134a you can do so fairly easily. If you don't want to there are gasses you can put into R12 systems without any modifications. Two I know of are Freeze 12 and DuraCool. I used to buy the Freeze 12 from the local O'Reilley's, but they don't seem to carry it anymore. I'm sure it's available somewhere. DuraCool I buy at the local Sturdevants, and it is still available. It costs somewhere around $6 to $6.50 a can, but if your AC system doesn't leak the cost is really a mook point. Good luck with your cool ride, Adam
Thanks guys... I like the idea of using factory components, I have read that there are Retro fits for r134 that do not change the looks of the system and a bigger condensor will be essentially invisible...but where can you get r12? In California as far as I understand it is contraband.....
they no longer manufacture r12 but you can still find it. not sure about cali but i see it all the time still on cl in phoenix, some shops even still carry it. take it from someone who lives in 100+ degree heat most of the year- it cools a hell of a lot better than r134.
Kragens used to carry it in 12oz cans for a lot of dough. You must have a license to buy r12 stating you have been certified in refrigerant handling. Now that they are O'Reilys I don't know if they will still sell R12. BTW, speaking as someone that has been schooled in refrigeration, the above posters are correct. Based strictly on heat absorption and cooling capability, R12 is better than 134a. As to your orignal question, if your system is operating correctly and all components are in good condition then I see no reason it won't cool in 100+ degree temps. Those old A/C systems blew ice cubes in my opinion.
D&S Auto Air on Superior Ave in Costa Mesa put a Sanden compresson on my 60 Ford Galaxie factory air system, and it would freeze you out. Steve used R12 (still available in California from authorized shops) for maximum cooling efficiency. I got my Sanden off of Ebay, supposedly designed to fit my FE engine, but the belt adjusting was always difficult. So, the advice you received about doing your research before you buy is good.
Many people have expressed the opinion to me that R-12 is the better refrigerant in the "pepsi challenge" to R-134. That may be and really that's not a point worth trying to dispute. What I can say is that when you take other factors into account such as availability and cost, I question if R-12 is really worth it here in California. If your system is that old and roached to where you have to change a lot of components then maybe it would be worth looking at a 134 conversion parts cost just for comparison. I would be willing to bet that if you were to go the R-12 route you would spend less on parts but so much on refrigerant that it would still be cheaper to do the 134 conversion. I just installed an R-134 system in a 57 ford and that thing gets down to 31 degrees, that should be plenty for southern California. If you come to the decision that you just have to go R-12 send me a Pm because I know a shop down here in San Diego that has a stash of R-12.
Thanks again guys. Questions sufficiently answered . The system will definitely need new lines and it has been open to the air for a little while so those components that are sensitive to the air will have to be replaced. I do head out to arizona once a month typically and my slightly off topic el camino doesn't have air so I suppose anything would be an improvement but it sounds like the system should be able to handle it...
R-12 is chemically superior to 134a, but an advantage to 134a is if you're on the road and have a failure, most any shop can work with it. There are some places where you can buy an old style control valve that's been reworked to run 134a. I've seen them for Chevelles, Mustangs, etc..... Maybe check catalogues and such. That'll help some with appearance, but you'll still have the 134a Schraders and compressor.
I thought I had read about someone somewhere retrofitting the old compressors to run 134...was I dreaming? Any reason why that would be a bad idea/wouldnt work?
An old style compressor works fine, just can't mix the oils. I'm using a big GM A6 on the '50 with 134a.
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