Technical Fabrication Table Ideas

So fellas, in the process of building a new fabrication table modifying the original low table I used to sit my body on during my coupe build. Been looking lots online at different pics of tables but I think it’s always good to listen to guys that have already built one and or modified multiple times. Fire away with pics and suggestions. My table is 48” x 43” and 36” tall. Just mounting 1/4” steel top and I have the legs on four heavy lockable casters. I’m interested in ideas and suggestions for mounting different tools, shelving, tool storage etc. Thanks boys.


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If your using 1/4 inch plate you will need a substantial
sub support system to make the table endure without
distortion. My table is 4x8x1/2 with 4 inch channel
substructure in a grid pattern. It is heavy at just over
a 1000 lbs. I weld fixtures to it for various projects
and such. After cutting off any temporary mods it
can be easily be resurfaced with welds if any damage does occur.

 

I need to get some casters on mine, it is 4'x8'x1", on 4 inch shedule 80 legs. It sits 36 inches high, so I might trim the legs down a bit for casters. I mounted some stuff underneath it using holes that were drilled with a magnetic drill press. I also countersunk those holes so nothing would be above the table. A couple of us scored the 1 inch plates from a defunct drilling operation, after dragging them around with the rig for a couple months. We jokingly referred to them as "steel tablets", but I sure am glad to have one.

 

I would have to believe that it has more to do with what you are inclined to fabricate as far as size and thickness of the top. I have two 2x4 steel work benches with 5/8 steel plate tops that are good for fabbing and pounding on. .
I keep eyeballing this table on FB Marketplace but don't have enough room for it. No idea of the cost. they had four and this is the last one.

 

A five legged table.

 

I have found that mounting several 2" receiver hitch receivers around the bottom of the table top and then mounting things like vices, rear end and transmission rebuild fixtures, etc. that can plug in when needed and removed when not is convenient. And to be stable, the table can't be too heavy. And finally, be realistic in what you built 85% of the time and size accordingly.

 

Always glad I read this stuff.
5 legged table. Good solution.

 

A 4'x8'x1" plate weighs 1306 lbs. That is a stout
table top indeed. It would also lend itself well for
drilling and tapping for fixtures, jigs and such. I
like the receiver mount idea as well.

 

I think a open grid top would be the best then you can always use clamps easily in the center area and incremental distances out from center .

 

I went with the 43x48 and only the 1/4” plate because I wanted something small enough and nimble as space is crucial in our two bay shop. Not doing any frame work or anything like that for fab, mostly smaller projects for now at least. Someday will have a bigger shop and then will build heavier. On the two inch receiver I actually had that idea already so guess I have thought up a couple good ideas. The beauty is the nature of the work itself means it will likely always evolve! Keep the pics and ideas coming!!


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And what ever you decide to do.....In the name of All things holy, be certain that any cross braces on the legs are mounted high enough to allow a cherry picker/ engine hoist access .

 

I've heard about the receiver hitch idea also. I defiantly have to do this.

 

Got curious and went and measured mine. 32"x 72", 3/8" thick top that is 33" from the floor. A lady I worked with did estate sales in her spare time so I told her to look out for a work table. Came with a 6" vice that I had to fix but it sure was a lot cheaper than trying to make one up from scratch. That receiver hitch idea is good. I'm using one on my rotisserie but it never occured to me to put one there. My problem is that any horizontal surface in sight gets filled with junk.

 

ain’t that the truth!

 

Just remembered this "other" work bench I was given from my brother. Came from Canadian Tire at some point. Measures 2'x4' with two drawers and a pegboard back. The legs are 18 gauge!

 

A guy in Meridian Idaho is making and selling these. Pretty spendy but they are really nice. This one is 5x10 1/2 inch plate and the 5/8 holes are on 4 inch centers 2700.00 .

 

When putting the receiver hitch receivers on the table many of the attachments that you put in flop around a bit due to the normal slop in the hitch. I either weld a small thick plate and drill and tap for a 1/2" bolt, or weld on a nut, and run a bolt up from the bottom to lock the insert after putting in the cross pin. It's quick and no more flopping around.

 

Fab tables are relevant to what you build. I doubt there is a one best design. Mine has No legs because like 31 Vick said, If it's flat it collects Junk. Mines portable, small enough not to collect anything but what I'm working on at the time and no room for Junk. It's a piece of 5/8" steel 36" X 48". One end has a 36" half circle burned out of it the other has one corner cur off at a 45degree angle cut about 10" from what would be the corner. It has 2 circles burned out one 2" the other 3". For most work I set it on Wood saw horses and for anything real heavy I have a pair of steel horses. When I'm not using it I drop the circle cut end to the floor lift the end with the 45 angle and walk it over to it's spot and stand it up against the wall. Now it can't collect Junk. I have a frame table that's just a perimeter of 3"x5"x3/8" wall tube on casters and no grid. I add the grid depending on what I'm going to build. When it's not needed it leaves the Shop. The need for Shop space changes with every job and sometimes during a job. Floor space is a premium so I decided not to use up any of what I have with a Junk collector. The only draw back at this point is that moving the Top isn't as easy to move around as it was 35 years ago. I also learned the name Work Bench is a joke for the most part. You might as well build a wall of shelving, then you won't be clearing off a spot every time you need work space. I have a trash can with 4" of cement in the bottom and a top 30" square made out of 3 layers of 3/4" plywood glued together with a circle that fits the can dia that I use as a work bench. If that's to small or unstable
for the job I set up the steel work top. Sounds busy I know but it makes you think about what your doing.

 

30yrs ago, when I bought my Bridgeport, I got some kind of inspection table thrown in as part of the deal. It's a 6x16ft cast steel table with a 4" thick, finished ground top. Thing weighs about a bazillion pounds, and I'm lucky I know some machinery movers, and only had to move the damn thing twice in those 30yrs.

 

here is a handy little table I just built. 23"X46" with a 1/2" top. two fixed wheels on one end. legs under the vice with a jack point to move it with a floor jack. under the vice a spot to hang a hammer, hacksaw and a shelf for an oil can. on the other end a pipe to hold C-clamps. stainless shelf across the bottom. two of the corners were cut, one with a 45 degree angle, the other a 2" radius.
thi
under construction photos

 

Nice, I like the idea of the wheels on one side. Would make the table more stable vs 4 swivel casters. Would be great to have a huge table with a 1000lb top but for smaller shops like mine, just doesn’t work. Nice design


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A buddy told me the set up for work bench height should be right were your belt buckle is. I did this on mine and it is a very comfortable height to work.

 

thanks, I stole the idea of only two wheels from @Robert J. Palmer . I moves easily with the floor jack. the heavier the table the more you can do with it. I have a few. all different all have different jobs and uses. this one I built for a new shop we will be in temporarily while the permanent shop is being built. this needed to be a good all around bench. mobile but sturdy and when the we have the new bigger space it will make a good "companion" to a larger fabrication table.
I was told to keep at least a 3" overhang around the table for clamping.

 

Anyone start out with truck frame rails from a junkyard? Cheap metal!

 

Let's hear some more about this, I have a bunch of '70's and '80's Ford and Chevy frames, one is a long crew cab frame.

 

The table that I’m finishing right now that started this thread was some sort of industrial frame that I scored from my uncle built out of 1/4” angle iron. Came to me free. I welded the low legs on it to use as the table to sit the body when I was building my coupe. Now this new lease on life with mostly left over steel from scrapped equipment from my store. I’m a total metal hoarder. My staff bust my balls all the time about my metal stash in the back of our store. Ain’t cheap to buy new! Love me some free steel!!


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The 5-legged table looks solid and that monster vise is beast! Older Parker or Reed? That piece you could pass on to your kids, their kids, their kids and probably their kids!

 

I have several lay up tables. My favorite is a 3' X 4' X 1/2" top on 1/4" angle legs waste high.
Most of the time it sets in one place but when time to move it , I just pick ot up with my forklify and carry it where needed. I do not have to worry about my buddies tearing it up or tipping it over.
Vic

 

# 15,681.6 not counting the legs.

 

HAMBER ELpolacko (Industrial chassis) built a new table some time ago. He isn't on the board any longer however here's the link to the thread, https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ew-fab-table-somewhat-budget-consious.577892/