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F100 Stance

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by King Karl, Feb 5, 2010.

  1. King Karl
    Joined: Sep 27, 2007
    Posts: 384

    King Karl
    Member
    from N.C.

    I'm working on a 58 F1 and after much debate on whether to clip this thing or not (thanks for all the input on that by the way) I have decided to use a lowered straight axle from Sids.

    Now the only problem is how low do ya go... My thoughts are to flip the rear over the springs to drop what I have heard to be around 4". Not sure if that is true or not, so if you know please share your input. I would like to see some pics of the lowered 57-60 F100's out there and know how low you went with yours & what way you went about it.

    This project will start off with a small block Chevy & be switched to a 500 Caddy motor. Roughly the same weight, give or take 40 lbs or so.


    I appreciate your help.
    KK
     
  2. Rellim51
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Rellim51
    Member
    from West TN

    I'm running a 4" axle from Sid with one leaf removed. I'm also using a solid tie rod and 2" tie rod drops. I'm running a 460 so I'm sure that dropped it a little also. In the rear I just flipped the axle and c-notched the frame. FYI, I only have about an inch of travel before the rear end hits the bed floor. I also had to heat and bend the steering arm down so the drag link is level to eliminate bump steer, now the steering arm barely kisses the shock as it passes. I haven't addressed that yet. Here is a pic of where I'm at now.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. 69f100
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 734

    69f100
    Member
    from So-Cal

    when you flip the rear it drops it 6". I did it on my 1969 f100 and it works great, but you may have clearence problems, we had to shave off the rubber stoppers on the frame and one day plan on c notching it so we can cary something in the bed.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2010

  4. chop50chevy
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 69

    chop50chevy
    Member
    from upstate ny

    My Dad's '59. Fatman MII front. Flipped axle and small c-notch for the rear. I'll have to ask if he used blocks or not and what the total drop was for the rear. He's running a '57 Thunderbird 312. He is on here as Ramrod36 if you want to PM him for info.

    Rellim - I like the stance on yours, too!

    -Andy
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Rellim51
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Rellim51
    Member
    from West TN

    Thanks Andy. Something I forgot to mention, you'll have scrub line issues with the 4" drop. I had to buy a new floor jack just go get under the axle in the center. I think there is about 3.5" of ground clearance with my G-78-15's.
     
  6. 100% Matt
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 2,577

    100% Matt
    Member

    I did a an axle over the spring swap in the rear on my truck and a c-notch. The front as lowered with mono-leafs with reversed eyes. Im;m going to be adding a 2" drop axle from Sids asap since my rear springs are so de-arched. I want to even out the tail drag
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2014
  7. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

    I believe that flipping a rear axle from below the leaf spring to above the spring will lower an vehicle by the sum of the thicknesses of:

    the spring
    the original upper saddle (no longer used)
    the axle
    the new lower saddle

    This applies whether you remove or add leafs to the spring or not.
     
  8. paintcan54
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,100

    paintcan54
    Member

    Here is a pic of my friends '60 we just finished up putting a 4" drop axel in front and just got it running with a Buick 455, thanks to GMC BUBBA on getting it running smooth.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. King Karl
    Joined: Sep 27, 2007
    Posts: 384

    King Karl
    Member
    from N.C.

    All bitch'n trucks!
    However, your answers so far leads me to another question... Is it absolutely necessary to c-notch the frame when flipping the rear axle?

    Rellim, is there anything you would do different if you had to do it again? Are you happy with the 4" drop axle? I guess you almost have to go with the four if flipping the rear though huh. I was toying with the idea of the 3" to start with. Is there any way to drop it 3-4" and still make it even in the back? I love the way it looks but don't know if I want to get into cutting the frame.


    KK
     
  10. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Here's mine with a Jim Weimmer MII front end and 3 leafs removed from the rear stack. It bottoms on the rubber bumpers in the rear very easily. Has a 289/c4 in it.

    SPark
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 6, 2010
  11. Hyway Hauler
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 670

    Hyway Hauler
    Member

    Isn't this body style called F100, and not F1?

    Not being a smart ass here, but was under the impression that after '56, they were changed to F100.
     
  12. AnimalAin
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 3,417

    AnimalAin
    Member

    Pretty sure they became F-100 in '53.
     
  13. 61TBird
    Joined: Mar 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,640

    61TBird
    Member

    What Grille is in your Truck?
     
  14. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    That grille is unique to 1957 f100's only.
     
  15. 61TBird
    Joined: Mar 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,640

    61TBird
    Member

    Thanks,that's one thing I never noticed...
    It's still true you learn something new everyday....:D
     
  16. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,862

    chaddilac
    Member


    Hey Rellim... did you have to run a rear sump pan on the 460??
     
  17. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,152

    slammed
    Member

    Looking killer!
     
  18. 100% Matt
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 2,577

    100% Matt
    Member

    You will absolutely need to C-notch the frame with a rear axle flip




     
  19. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,130

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No if you don't mind the axle hitting the frame rail almost every time you hit a bump.

    The frame isn't c-notched on my 48 Chev pickup (yet) and a few years ago I cracked the frame rail right above the axle due to the axle hitting the frame.

    It isn't about putting one of those huge notches in it so you can lay frame it's about getting enough clearance so you can drive the truck without having issues like I did. Limping into my buddy's driveway to use his welder to repair the frame wasn't exactly fun.
     
  20. King Karl
    Joined: Sep 27, 2007
    Posts: 384

    King Karl
    Member
    from N.C.

    If I were to just dearch the springs in the rear to get around a 4" drop would it still be necessary? I want to try and run about a 10" wheel in the rear if possible. My pops ran 15x10's on his 60 but it was stock height.

    KK
     
  21. cadillac daddyo
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 420

    cadillac daddyo
    Member
    from wichita ks

    holy crap that truck sits just right i jus talk to sid this weekend at the swap meet about doin mine a 4" drop i think i going to do it know after seeing that
     
  22. Rellim51
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Rellim51
    Member
    from West TN

    Nope, I'm using the stock pan from a 75 lincoln. I'm using tubular engine and trans cross members from CPP. I did have to remove the original rear cross member to clear the trans and it was very tricky getting the crank pulley to clear the front cross member but I was able to raise the engine up enough to make it work without having to notch it like I've seen others do. BTW....the CPP tubular trans cross member will not work with out major modification. The axle is pretty close to the engine cross member but I've jumped on the front bumper and it hasn't hit yet.
     
  23. Rellim51
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Rellim51
    Member
    from West TN



    It's hard to say since i haven't driven it yet. If I were going to keep a straight axle in it, I might add anti sway bars but other than that, I wouldn't change a thing. My goal was to lower the truck without messing with the springs much to keep a stock ride. Though not traditional, if you consider the cost of rebuilding all the stock components that would be replaced with a Mustang II front end, it is much cheaper to go the Mustang II route. Especially when you consider the cost of adding power steering. I didn't realize this when I started my project so if I had it to do over I might seriously consider the Mustang II.
     
  24. Rellim51
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Rellim51
    Member
    from West TN


    The c-notch is not as hard as it sounds and well worth the effort. Bottoming out on every pebble in the road is not fun. This is not my truck but this is exactly how my c-notch looks.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. Rellim51
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Rellim51
    Member
    from West TN


    Thanks, I am very happy with Sid's work.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2010
  26. Javier
    Joined: Aug 12, 2008
    Posts: 1,433

    Javier
    Member
    1. Strugglers C.C.

    two inch Sids dropped axle and reversed eye mono leaf spring suspension fro Sacramento Vintage[​IMG]
     
  27. King Karl
    Joined: Sep 27, 2007
    Posts: 384

    King Karl
    Member
    from N.C.

    Rellim, are you taking it to the Supernationals in May?
     
  28. zimm
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 802

    zimm
    Member
    from iowa

  29. King Karl
    Joined: Sep 27, 2007
    Posts: 384

    King Karl
    Member
    from N.C.

    Thanks Zimm, that was a good article.
    How the hell does that guy keep his shirt so white? As soon as I walk in the garage mine has grease on it!

    KK
     

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