I am not ready yet, but I can see myself putting an F1 steering box in my model A. I have read that the appropriate part is from a 1948-52 F1. Is the box from an F2 or F3 different? and what about from years 1953 +
The early F1 - F3 box makes installing a non-4 banger engine easier due to the steering shaft entering from below the sector shaft centerline creating more clearance. I believe the F2 and F3 have different gear ratios than the F1. The later truck versions you asked about are larger and the shaft enters the upper part of the casting and take up a lot more space.
You could have a 32-34 Gemmer box built with a model A sector housing, to bolt directly to your model A frame.
U might look into mounting aMustang,FALCON,COMET, or other Ford products. They were popular “replacements” for changing the steering boxes in a Model A for the older antiquated steering boxes that were original to the car.Rotate the box to where the Pittman arm points over to them left front wheel and u have figured it out.
You guys are flipping geniuses. I've been here for years and I'm still amazed at all the knowledge. And everybody brings some. I truly enjoy just hanging out and listening to the discussions. I learn a lot. Important stuff. Stuff I can use. Sometimes I relearn stuff I've forgotten. LOL
The F 1 box is a great choice for older fords. I have one in my 31 and I am putting one in my 34 p.u. As said above the steering shaft is below the sector shaft so you have more room for the engine and exhaust. You cut the flange off the F 1 box and weld the one off the model a box on. Make sure the seat is where it will be and see how it all feels to you before welding it. Also you can shorten the steering shaft as needed and weld the tapered style shaft on to run an older style wheel. The 53-56 f 100 boxes don't fit well and the pitman arms are ugly. The sector shaft on the f 1 is the same as all the older fords and others, so there are more choices. I used one off a 40 chevy p.u. that I cut down and welded a new ball stud in.
That is NON TRADITIONAL STREET ROD STUFF. Yes it works great but is 100% street rod and 0% traditional hot rod.
F1, F2, F3 boxes are all the same. F4 and larger trucks use a similar box, only larger and with a slower ratio
I think I would talk to this guy over on Fordbarn. Mel's Model A Parts & Services Randy Gross 714-292-8660 [email protected] Check him out in the Fordbarn archives, he is top rated. I have been to his shop, first class. If you don't buy from him at least hear what he has to say. Charlie Stephens
Yes, 48-52 F1, F2 or F3 are what you want. There are two primary methods of doing it, and I've tried each successfully. The first is the Vern Tardel method, which is pretty much as @1935ply described above: Cut the flange off the F1 box, and weld the flange from a Model A onto it. Sector shafts are the same diameter. It's explained in Tardel's Ford Steering booklet, which is cheap and available from many online sources. (He kinda glosses over a number of points, but it's a decent summary). I did this method on my 4-banger speedster. The other method is courtesy of the Hamb's own @chaddilac. He sells a nice little kit in the Hamb classifieds for doing the conversion yourself, which includes a new flange and a jig for redrilling the frame. I'm doing this on my AV8 truck project right now, and so far I'm pleased with it. (Gotta admit, it requires a lot of grinding, but worth it, in my opinion.) Here's chaddilac's YouTube video, to give you an idea. (No, I don't get a commission.) Once you're done welding, you should rebuild the box, since you have it apart anyway. Van Pelt sells a rebuild kit for under $100 that includes new bearings. Part #SGK-3548-B on their website.
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