will f1 spindles/hubs work with 37-48 backing plates/drums? I have spent the last few days searching the depths of this forum, my head is spinning but i still could not find an answer. I have a complete 49 ford front end and want to use the spindles and hubs from it (i know i will have to modify the hubs to use bolt on arms). I would use the backing plates and drums but i have a 16'' set of spoke rims i want to run which wont work with f1 drums unless i use thick spacers. any help would be appreciated
I am working a little bit from memory here but if I recall correctly I did F1 brakes on my 47 Ford front spindles. I had to do a small bit of filing on the shoulder of the spindle to remove the radius and make it a 90 degree angle so the bearing would seat all the way and I think I clearanced the top of the king pin a bit with a grinder? What I don't recall is if I used 53 and up brakes or 50 F1 brakes? I did use the spacers on the front to run 34 Ford wire wheels on my A roadster. They are 1 1/4" thick and I think they look fine. Here is a link to Speedways info on this. http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/916-31934.pdf
You're answering bass-akwards. And the OP is asking an opposite to normal question. He wants to run 37-48 backing plates and drums on his F1 spindles/hubs .
There is no inner bearing that will fit the F-1 spindle and the '48 and earlier hub. Never seen it done; but I bet a creative machinist could mate an F-1 hub and a '40-'48 (outside the hub style) drum and make it work with either Lockheed or repop Lincoln brakes. Then you could run wire wheels. Still seems easier to use '48 and earlier spindles. Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I ended up just putting my f1 parts back on the shelf and ordering some 35 spindles, 40 hubs and drums. I have some juice brake backing plates im going to adapt to self energizing eventually. Thanks for the info everyone. Sent from my SM-N910P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
'35 spindles will present a few issues, too. Bolt pattern, backing plate register, thrust bearing, steering arm shape & ratio, etc. They will do the job, probably not the best choice tho. A quality '35-'36 king pin set, from a one of the parts dealer, will cost you more than a pair of '42-'48 and probably even '37-'41 spindles, best bet would be to find a NOS king pin set on ebay.
The 35/36 spindles i got were super clean and had used oem king pins with them. There doesnt appear to be wear on the king pins. I got them cheap enough i dont mind replacing them with something better. Idealy what would be the best spindles to get for my setup? Sent from my SM-N910P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You could use either '37-'41 round-back (which are thought by many to have a "cleaner" appearance) or '42-'48 square-back. Both styles are functionally the same.
Ok il start looking, just out of curiosity, do these work well? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hydraulic-Brake-Adapter-Rings,3286.html Also, when you say the 35 spindle arms would be a problem, do you mean they stick out more then the 37 and newer spindle arms (hitting the axle) Sent from my SM-N910P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You just need the piston ring looking thing out of the kit; '35 and up spindles do not need the bearing spacer. With later juice brake hubs, you will probably need to double up the keyed washer to get the cotter pin to work as the '35 snout is longer. When you are bending the arms to clear your dropped axle and bones, there is an extra swoop in '35-'36 arms that just takes a little extra bending to look good.
Good to know. I ended up finding a really nice set of 37 spindles so the 35 spindles are headed to the parts shelf. I swear, il have enough to build 3 more hotrods by the time im done this one haha. Sent from my SM-N910P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If I remember correctly, the 35 and 36 spindles are different. I have some 36 stuff here and if I think the 36 wide five drum/hubs were different from the 37-39 stuff too. I would need to check. Cliff
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