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F1 Shock Mounts – The Tardel Way

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by D-Russ, Oct 8, 2007.

  1. After looking for a while for a deal on original F1 upper shock mounts, I gave up and bought a pair from Speedway. The original curve at the bottom didn't fit the height of my frame with the front spring notch, so I followed the method described in the Bishop/Tardel book.

    First I cut off the curved part of the mounts below the first hole.

    Then I did a little shaping with the grinder.

    To position the mount correctly, I drilled the first hole and bolted the top part of the mount in place.

    Then I marked the position of the second hole.

    I drilled the second hole and after chamfering the end of the lower piece, I bolted it into place. Then I tacked the pieces together.

    Here's a shot of the mounts after welding and grinding.

    And here's the left side installed.
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2017
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  2. 34Fordtk
    Joined: May 30, 2002
    Posts: 1,690


    Great job,what welder did you use?
  3. touchdowntodd
    Joined: Jan 15, 2005
    Posts: 4,061


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  5. Sorry for the down time.
    All linked images in this thread originally hosted by PhotoSuckIt have been relinked to the HAMB servers.
  6. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 5,694

    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    You may have done it this way but as a chassis builder I have experienced when using short bungs just welded to the outer rails that on some cars that are high milers driven hard the bungs tearing out of the rails. On all the builds I do now that use the F1 style shock mount I use thru the frame bungs that weld on the inside and outside. Seems to have stopped the problem.
    HemiDeuce and D-Russ like this.
  7. sproadster30
    Joined: Mar 13, 2009
    Posts: 116

    from Natick, Ma

    Would plating or "doubling" the inside of the frame mounting surface help with that problem also? In case the frame wasn't fully boxed in that area?
    D-Russ likes this.
  8. This thread is from 2007. I'm merely relinking images because of the Photobucket fiasco. The current Rodder's Journal article on my car directs readers to my build threads so I felt compelled to update the links.

    You're exactly right though – the sides of the framerails are the weak point in this set up, so I fixed the problem with through the frame threaded bungs. See below.


    I started out by cutting up a 7/16-20 bolt and welding it in to plug one end of the bungs. I ground the end flat but I didn't take a pic.



    Then I enlarged the original holes with a step drill after drilling a 7/16 hole through the boxing plate on the inside under the cross member.


    After that, I bolted the upper shock mount to the threaded bungs and slid it into the holes and clamped it.


    Here's the fit under the cross member. The reason I filled one end of each threaded bung is so I could just rosette weld the bungs from the inside.

    Then I welded the bungs from the outside of the frame, cut the excess off, and ground everything smooth.



    Last edited: Sep 9, 2017
  9. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,348

    from Mayberry

    I'm glad you were compelled. this is a project fast approaching on my build.

    Sent from my SM-G920R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    D-Russ likes this.
  10. Good tech for many uses,thanks for added pics.
    belair and D-Russ like this.
  11. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 4,680

    from CO & WA

    Great work and glad that you have the pic's preserved for history in the right place.
  12. duncan
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 959


    awesome job.

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