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F1 brake light switch

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by boutlaw, Feb 27, 2014.

  1. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,221


    The stock style pressure switch is installed in the stock master cylinder using new stock wiring, problem is, it takes considerable pedal force to activate the brake lights. The brake lights do work, but for normal driving situations, the brake pedal is eased on and off, and light pedal pressure should activate the lights, but thats not whats happening. I've installed two different pressure switches, same effect, easy pedal force, no brake lights. I know I could add a normally open electric switch to the brake pedal, but the pressure switch design should work. Just wondering if anyone else had the same problem and what was done to correct the problem. Maybe another vendor for a better quality pressure switch?
  2. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,640

    V8 Bob

    Try bleeding the switch. Loosen it enough to allow a small amount of fluid to leak when pushing the pedal from above, (or pulling from below), and tighten when you relax the pedal. Perform this a couple of times.
    Doing this improved the switch sensitivity on my '51. :)
  3. flathead4d
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 884


    I usually fill the port in the new switch with brake fluid before installing it. Try it.
  4. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,221


    Great ideas both, and I never tried either, thanks guys.....
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  5. 57Custom300
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,294

    from Arizona

    Seen somewhere where they used a switch from Harley Davidson.
  6. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 5,334

    from texas

    Jeep had a lower pressure switch
  7. A switch from Harley-Davidson may be what you need.

    However, these switches, over time, carbon up from arcing, leading to the exact syptoms you describe. I use a relay in my system to activate the lights and lessen the electrical load on the switch, which nearly eliminates the arcing. You may want to put a capacitor between the switch leads to absorb the arcing as another avenue of cure.

    Good Luck,

  8. Inked Monkey
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,790

    Inked Monkey

    Another vote for Harley switch. Had the same problem on by buick
  9. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,221


    Was going to try the HD switch as "bleeding" didn't seem to help...... what fixed my problem was to put some pedal slack back in the MC push rod. I had taken all the slack out of the pushrod to get a good hard pedal, so I shortened the rod adjuster about a quarter inch giving me some free pedal and my brake lights work just like they are supposed to. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  10. LittleBritishCar
    Joined: Apr 22, 2012
    Posts: 90

    from Napa, CA

    Vintage Ford has a low pressure switch that is made specifically for the F1. Call them because it is nearly impossible to find stuff on their website.

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