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Hot Rods F1 box in AV8 help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flatford39, Aug 2, 2020.

  1. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    OK I thought I had this thing licked but have come up with a problem. I did the Tardell suggested installation of an F1 steering box in an A frame by cutting off the A snout and welding it to the F1 steering box. All that went quite well. Now that it is installed I am having a problem with clocking the pitman arm. On the bench I get a full 2 to 2 and a quarter turns lock to lock. Everything is tight and there is minimal play.

    Installed on the car I can only turn left and when I come back to straight it is locked out. This is with me having the sector gears notches at 12 oclock so the pitman arm hangs straight down.

    I noticed on the bench that to go lock to lock in both directions the sector notches were at 11 oclock and 2 oclock.

    So I thought maybe I had the Model A snout not clocked properly to the F1 box so I took everything apart and cut them apart again. I bolted the snout to the frame and inserted the sector gear in the box and then through the snout with the gear in what I think is the proper position which is straight down or 6 oclock like is shown in Tardell's book about doing this conversion.

    That still hasn't solved my problem. Anyone have any suggestions??? You can see the chalk marks are not at noon and my drag link arm is on a near 45. It should be straight down no??? 20200801_155201.jpg
     
  2. AVater
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,318

    AVater
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    Here’s how I dealt with it: took a 3 corner file and made the 4 indexing splines On the pitman arm just like the others (1 fat spline into 2 thin ones) then set the pitman arm so that it hung straight down at the middle of the lock to lock turn span of the box.
     
  3. What he said ^^^^^^^^^^
     
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  4. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    Interesting...I am not alone here with this happening then. That's a relief in itself. I appreciated your input and if I do act on it I will probably use dremel tool and a stone.

    Actually I just reread your post. I see now that you indicated pitman arm not the sector. A three pointed file is exactly the right tool. I thought you were talking about the sector.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
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  5. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 4,623

    continentaljohn
    Member

    The Dremel will work just faster:D
     
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  6. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    When I typed that about the Dremel I thought he was talking about the sector shaft. Going back and re reading it he clearly indicates pitman arm. You really can't get a Dremel tool in there and the three sided file worked great. I just did one and am pretty happy with the result. Three more to do. The first one turned out really nice and only took about 30 minutes.
     
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  7. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 4,623

    continentaljohn
    Member

    How about a picture of the roadster sounds cool
     
  8. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,344

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    I have the same set up as you in my Sport Coupe But changed a couple of things. I had several Model A steering boxes around and didn't like the unsupported shaft sticking out so cut off another flange and put in a new bushing for support. Probably didn't need to do it but figured it can't hurt. I also used a 37 - 40 pitman arm and filed the the notches out so I could index it where I wanted it and heated and bent it for clearance. That also allowed me to use standard tie rod ends on the drag link. Don't have a real good picture but attached what I had.


    20141222_140809.jpg fh1.jpg
     
  9. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 944

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did the same as @Model A Gomez. Come to think of it, I think it was one of his pictures that inspired me to do it. I also drilled and tapped the outside flange for a grease fitting, just because I could. I doubt it's necessary, however.
     
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  10. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    Thanks guys for the advice. It's greatly appreciated. You would think Tardel would have made note of this procedure in his books. I guess you can't cover everything but this is pretty integral to making it work.
     
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  11. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,821

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Could one of you send a pic on where to cut the model A mount, and where to cut the f1 box? My Tardal book is loaned out.
     
  12. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 944

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Tardel says leave about an inch of flange connected to the A flange, and about an inch of sleeve on the F-1 box.
     
  13. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,821

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thank you, Clark, I was about to commit a bad mistake.
     
  14. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    When you measure that inch make sure you measure from the side of the flange that is not touching the frame. It's 1 inch plus the thickness of the flange on the A snout.
     
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  15. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    OK got it all mocked up today and I have steering. Thanks again to all here that helped. It's great to get a project off the bench so I can start another one.

    Moving on to the clutch pedal next.

    Thanks everyone.
     
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  16. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,821

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks, have to cut mine. Haven't cut the Model a side yet.
     
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  17. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    Let me know what you used to cut it off. I used a Sawsall as I feel I have more control and won't leave to big a gap. I tried cut off wheels in my 4.5 angle grinder but I can't control it as well as the Sawsall. Sawsall takes about 10 times longer but I have a better cut.
     
  18. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,821

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    39, used a chop saw with a diamond tip blade. My first thoughts were the 4.5 but not enough control.
     
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  19. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,673

    flatford39
    Member

    Thanks...My first thought was the 4.5 and then my chop saw but since I only have a standard metal cutting blade in the chop saw I settled on the Sawsall. I am glad we all think pretty much the same.
     

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