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Technical EZ wiring question...no turn signals!!!!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blacktop Graffiti, Nov 3, 2015.

  1. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    Alright we've got one EZ wiring kit with a Speedway Heavy Duty turn signal switch. We have headlights, tail lights but no turn signals or hazards. We replaced the turn signal switch thinking it was the problem but it wasn't and we are using the three prong flasher that you have to use with the switch.

    Everything is grounded good, including body to frame, frame to engine and battery to frame. We are so frustrated it's killing us.
     
  2. Do you have brake lights?
    Are the brake lights wired into the turnsignal switch?
    LED lights ?
     
  3. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 500

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    I ran into something once. The electronic flashers polarity was different than where it plugged into.....
     
  4. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member


  5. did you bench test the switch? i have had to take those apart and clean the contacts to get them to work.
     
  6. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    Its a brand new switch so I assume its working but...
     
  7. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,737

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    Some of those switches will not work the same bulb for brake lights and turn signal.
     
  8. Ron Brown
    Joined: Jul 6, 2015
    Posts: 1,715

    Ron Brown
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree here... just wired mine this last weekend. when done everything worked except turnsignals. Used 2 pole LED flasher. the two wires to the flasher were not marked for polarity...well, i guessed wrong. Switched these two wires and everything works great.
     
  9. If you step on the brake and turn left will that light go out? Do you have 12 volts to the X terminal when trying the turn signal? Are your bulbs LED ?
     
  10. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

  11. the ones i have had to take apart HAVE been new ones just like that.
     
  12. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,534

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    I second checking the switch. These days, being new does not always mean its good! I've run into 3 new headlight switches that were all defective! I ended up taking the last (new) one apart and cleaning the contacts before it would work the same, consistently. Gene
     
  13. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    I'll try the cleaning idea. I'll try anything at this point. Its driveable but we can't until we get all the wiring figured out!
     
  14. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,154

    bct
    Member

    Flashers need a certain amount of draw to work.
     
  15. I have had 2 wiring kits ,that the flasher is Chinese junk and were no good. both flashers
    came with the harness's . drove me nut's for 4 day's the first time I couldn't get the flashers to work
    try a flasher known to work !!!
     
  16. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,537

    badshifter
    Member

    Which E Z wiring kit do you have? They have their own built in turn signal and hazard circuits based on a GM column/turn signal switch. They include wiring directions for Ford style and a few other switches, but not the style switch you are using. The turn signal switch you are using has its own built-in turn signal and hazard circuits. So my guess is with two harnesses both having their own turn signal and hazard circuits included, you've got something wired wrong. I can make a quick schematic if I know what EZ harness you have.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2015
  17. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

  18. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Sounds like flasher is bad. Try taking the load side (from flasher) (wire going to turn signal switch) to +12 volts. Then (with brake switch in off position) put switch in left turn and see if the front and back bulbs light on left side. If so, then flasher sucks.
     
  19. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    I've installed a new flasher twice.
     
  20. noddaz
    Joined: Sep 9, 2014
    Posts: 13

    noddaz

    Ok, try this. You need a test light or a volt meter. Test light is actually easier. Turn the circuit on. (Key on, 4 way flasher switch on just to start simple.) Find a good ground for one end of the test light or voltmeter. Make sure that this is a good ground by testing the light or meter from a known good 12 source. (Positive side of the battery if you have real long leads on your test equipment. Or something like a hot accessory wire that is on with the key.) Go to the fuse box and see if you have power on both legs of the fuse. If you have no power to the fuse backtrack until you find out why. If you have power at the fuse go to the flasher, pull the flasher out and back probe the plug to test for 12 volt. Test all three sockets where the flasher plugged in. One of them should have power. Remember, ignition switch is on. 4 way flasher switch is on. No power at all on the plug for the flasher? Back up to the turn signal switch and or 4 way flasher switch to see if you have power to or from the switch. Test both sides of the switch. If you have power going into a switch and no power coming out of the switch it usually means the switch is bad. And if you have power at the flasher connector itself, suck up some courage and make a small jumper wire to run from the hot (powered) side of the flasher plug to one of the other two connections. Either lights will come on or you might have to pull the jumper wire out in a hurry because you might blow a fuse. This is a rough outline for testing. YMMV. And this does not take into account if one or more light sockets are shorted to ground or to another circuit. An 1156 bulb shoved into a 1157 socket will mess with you like that...
    Good luck. and enjoy. This may not be fun, but try not to get frustrated with it.
     
    bct and Hnstray like this.
  21. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,537

    badshifter
    Member

  22. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    Thank you badshifter!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  23. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Did you try the test I also mentioned in my post? This would tell you if the flasher is the problem or wiring!!!!!
    Do the test first, then let us know what you find!
     
  24. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,534

    jazz1
    Member

    If you are using a 12 volt power source such as a battery charger on low amp try using a fully charged 12 volt battery instead. I had same issue.
     
  25. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    badshifter is a genius! We wired it up just like he said and we have everything working. Thank you to everyone here who tried to help. LONG LIVE THE HAMB!!!!
     
    bct likes this.
  26. Budro35
    Joined: Dec 22, 2007
    Posts: 114

    Budro35
    Member

    Will you share the schematic with us all, please? Thanks!!
     
  27. Blacktop Graffiti
    Joined: May 2, 2002
    Posts: 964

    Blacktop Graffiti
    Member

    Here you go:

    Left Front - Yellow on switch to light blue on harness
    Right Front - Green on switch to dark blue on harness
    Left rear - orange on switch to yellow on harness
    Right rear - brown on switch to dark green on harness
    Load (flasher) Black on switch to purple on harness
    Brake light switched power red on switch to white on harness
    You wont use the blue on the switch as it's not set up for left and right turn signals, and you won't use the 3 pronged flasher with the switch, it will use the flasher built into the harness fuse panel.
    So, 6 of the switch wires will be used.
    On the harness, you will not use the Dark Brown Hazard wire, or the Light Green horn wire (at least not from the turn signal switch).
     
  28. T Fire 40
    Joined: Jun 17, 2017
    Posts: 2

    T Fire 40

    Hi guys new to the forum and to be honest new to the forum thing all to gether but learning there are alot of really awesome people out there willing to give fellow men or women some good honest advise so thank you to all for that and see this is an older post but hoping someone can help with a similar issue as Blacktop. I have a older EZ wiring harness with the black labled wiring kit. My problem is everything was working and one day my cooling fan stopped, blower fan inside cab stopped working, no turn signals (hazards still work) all these usually come on or work when the ignition is on. I've checked power with the meter and seemed to have lost power to the EZ wiring block for these issues but still have power to others like gauges, starter. I've replaced the blinker relays and again my hazards still work. Any ideas?

    Thanks
     
  29. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,299

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The original Poster (OP) has received his answer and the thread will die. To get an answer to YOUR question, start a new thread.

    Proper forum protocol on almost any forum, is NOT to "hi-jack" somebody else's thread, but to start a new one. Go back to the main page and at the top of the page, on the right-hand side is a red box labeled "Post a new thread". Click on it and follow prompts. Be as specific in your details as you can and post pics, if applicable. Then you'll have everybody's attention, all for your problem.

    If you need some help, just ask.

    And welcome to the forum.
    -Bob
     
    pat59 likes this.
  30. dorf
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,087

    dorf
    Member
    from ohio

    i have a21 circuit ez also i have wired 5 autos .everthing worked as normal for a couple thousand miles ,then it started blowing brake fuses now it blowes the brake fuse with nothing on . im about to take it all out and rewire it .traced all the leads and found nothing , lights work and 4 ways work there a black wire that sticks out of the back of the fuse block makes a 160 and reenters the block dont know about it .
     

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