Technical EZ wiring issues that don't make sense... Any help?

Hi guys,
I've installed about 5 universal Harnesses over the years, and wired several choppers from scratch so I'm not exactly afraid of wiring. I've used both Painless and EZ, and never had any issues before.

My 53 3100, (have a build thread going), I gutted all the wiring and started over with an EZ harness, the mini 20. The documentation is weak, but I do hear they have good customer service for call ins. The manual does say to not hook up the battery until all circuits are terminated/hooked up. But I don't work that way. I HAVE to "test" each section as I go. Can't help it..
Engine section took a day. It has an early 70's 250 in it, so its already 12V. I added a ballast resistor (they had a late GM alternator hooked up to the original regulator and not ballast)...
All labeled wires are hooked up in engine, front and tail light sections.
Dual filament sockets added to front park lights, tested and work for turn sigs...

I bought a universal turn signal switch, 7 wire. It calls for a 3 prong flasher, and the harness I have has a 2 prong. Finally found that you just add the black and blue wire to the "L" terminal on the flasher together if you are running a 2 prong. So I did that..
I add (fused) power to the flasher X terminal, and the fuel pump pulses up front?? WTF???
Hazards work, but turn sigs don't work right. X term on the flasher, the Hazard LED on the universal switch blinks and the fuel pump circuit pulses... regardless of turn sig arm position. Even when "off".
Both rear flash whether I hit left or right. Front works correctly. I suspect the issue is I have LED's on the rear and will have to get an electronic flasher to handle that load. I've ran into that before..
However, there are bigger issues going on...
I wired up the key switch. activates the starter in the run position (not just start). It is a basic BAT, ACC, IGN, and START switch which was already in it and worked fine before I tore out the wiring. Have NO idea why the starter is activating in the run Position. Does not do it in the ACC position..
So, .. everything is labeled, should be straight forward but I have gremlins... Cannot get this sorted. Don't know why BOTH rear signals flash regardless of switch position, Fuel pump Pulses with flasher, starter engages in Run position (Won't turn off until switch is in OFF position).... Nothing makes sense...

 

You using a column with a four way flasher button? I had a GM tilt column in an "A" and had the same problem you're describing with turn signals/flashers. When I was working around the column, I pushed the flashers "ON" without knowing it. Screwed me up for a while, but finally figured it out by process of elimination. Starter switch may just be a wiring placement, or depending who made the switch, a Mexican electrical problem ( no quality control). Hope you find the gremlins; they can be a pain in the ass for sure. Good luck.

 

sounds like they mislabeled the wires, or you misread them. i think i would pull fuses for those circuits that are giving you trouble and trace out the wires to see if they are marked right.
is the back of the fuse panel open? could something be crossing the circuits? are the turn and fuel pump fuses next to each other?

 

Yeah, I'm using this one...


I wire wheeled the steering column down to bare metal to ensure good ground. Hazards work great. Its the turn sigs I cant get to work right on the rear.

 

After checking , double checking, etc. I definitely have not misread the wires. I will pull fuses and try your idea there. Also, I can pull the fuse block off and see the back, and check if the turn/ fuel pump are next to each other. I'll do that now and get back. Thanks for replies, guys..

 

Disconnect the black and blue from each other and the L terminal of flasher. Test again, then make sure you know where these two wires go, before you connect them back together.

 

Somehow, you are sending power to the S terminal on the starter. You haven't said or shown the terminals on the starter. The "I" or could be marked "R" terminal goes to the ignition system. Getting these two reversed will crank your starter with key in On position.

Ballast resistor should have nothing to do with the alternator or voltage regulator. The ballast resistor is for your ignition system, and depending on what you're using you may not even need it.

The high filament tail light wires for brake and signal need to go each and separately into the turn signal switch. No splices no detours no tie ins.

Without seeing the internal logic of the switch there's no way to say connecting the black and blue will not cause you troubles.

Your first step to shaking this out it to admit there's a bunch that doesn't follow the requirements. If the markings are correct, and your work is correct you'll not have problems. So suspect both and verify what you think you are hooking up is indeed what you are hooking up.

 

Thanksfor input so far. This is where I got info to combine black and blue wires for a 2 lug flasher. Everything else is hooked up exactly like the diagram.

 

So today im picking up an electronic flasher. I suspect thats all thahs amiss with turn sigs. Other issues, fuel pump plusing with flasher, start in all key positions etc are still there.

 

Every time I wire I get a hiccup with the turn signals. Frustrating. Sounds like your on the right trail.
Good luck

 

I had the same problem with both tail lights flashing...drove me mental for 3 days,,added 4 heavy grounds. I was using a 12v power source on low amp(old style battery charger) All my electrical worked fine except for flashers. Called in a friend and he suggested connecting a fully charged battery. Problem solved. Could low amps be the cause?

 

Well said wiring is one of my weak points I have to go very slow. Roger

 

The black and blue wires are clearly separate in this picture.

 

You are correct. However, right beneath it the writing says if using a 2 prong flasher (which I have) to combine them and hook to L terminal on flasher..

 

That switch wiring don't make sense, the Red is usually power feed in and the Orange is brake lights

 

One thing that's suspect is this turn switch has an 'emergency flasher' position (if I'm reading the sales listing right). It must flash only the rear lights (not all four) as to flash all four would require yet another input power and another flasher (a two-lamp flasher won't flash four lamps correctly and vice-versa). Verify that the switch is doing what it's supposed to do. With the switch 'off', you should have continuity between the orange, brown, and red wires only. Turn to 'left', now you'll have it between the red and brown (but these should read to no others), and between yellow, orange, and blue (but to no others). Switch to 'right', now you'll read between red and orange (only) and between green, brown, and blue (only). The black wire should read to ground (the housing) only. With the 'emergency' flasher turned on (and the turn switch 'off'), you should have continuity between orange, brown, and blue only. If you get results that are different, the switch is probably defective....

If using LED lights, you'll probably have to use a 3-wire flasher as you're likely getting backfeed through the internal indicator light. With standard lamps, this won't be a problem.

 

Color codes can vary, there is no 'standard color code' for automotive wiring. Each manufacturer, even switches from the same manufacturer can have different colors....

 

Ballast resistor.....do you have twelve volts hooked to the coil for full coil power when using the start circuit? If so, it'll feed back to the starter circuit when the key is turned to the run position, unhook it. The coil doesn't need twelve volts to start it, it'll start on the voltage put out by the ballast resistor.

 

No

 

If the fronts are flashing the flasher should be OK . Do you have a resister bypass wire to the starter? If you do having the two small wires swapped at the solenoid will act like what you are experiencing.

 

What's the latest on this deal?
Were you able to get the ign switch sorted out? Some of the other problems may be related to the switch wiring. Another factor to consider while testing ign switch is that power from IGN pole must stay on and power from ACC pole goes OFF temporarily while switch is in START or crank position. I say crank position because some people put a toggle in IGN wire so they can crank engine to build oil pressure before firing, or as a theft deterrant.
I did not see any mention of power from START pole on switch to a neutral safety switch.
Hope you are making progress.

 

Well today after retracing all wires over the past couple weeks, quadruple checking everything, I decided to test the start switch itself. I didn't, because it worked before I tore the old wiring out so it was out of mind. There was nothing left to check... So, I checked continuity between batt post and then ign (run), and start.

Start pole was getting a tone in every position except ACC and off!. Imagine my relief. I bought a new switch today, tested it, no continuity on start pole any where but in start position.. Threw the new switch in, which is identical (universal), and BAM. works like it supposed to. Truck even fired right up w/o choke and puuured.
Still fighting turn sigs, but that's all that's left...

 

Wire according to the diagram in the instructions with the 3 prong flasher. Use a headlight 3 prong socket to plug into.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

Check it..
http://vid84.photobucket.com/albums/k35/RowdyXLCH/53 Chevy/20150410_173742_zps09zlfvp1.mp4
I checked the battery at idle. Getting 14.3 volts so alternator charging perfectly. Today Im tackling the turn sigs and guage wiring then buttoning this thing up for a bit (driving it)

 

Wire in a three prong flasher, or the lamp stays on. With a 3 prong it acts as an indicator only. I usually make a jumper wire for the two wire socket. Jay

 

Well I got the whole deal on the rear turns sorted.
Thing is, I had everything right all the time.
I tore out from and begun again from scratch, TWICE with no luck or change in the issue.

Last night, I decide I'm going to actually tear out the wiring inside the hollow of the bumper itself, as I originally just tied into P.O.'s existing wires coming out of a small hole in the back of bumper..

The culprit was the wiring inside the bumper, as I removed all lights, wiring, cut taped areas off and wired in new which was now color correct as I had the right colors in my drawer. Hooked everything up right and it works perfectly. Tails, Turns, Hazards, & brake, all a GO.
THREE WEEKS on rear turn-signals.. that's just embarrassing. lol.

So Now, everything works perfectly. I need to track down the previous owner so I can sue him for "Pain and Suffering"... and "emotional trauma".. bahahahha,..

Glad its sorted. New gauges will be in any day, then I can finish the dash wiring.

 

Trusting the last guy that worked on it does, occasionally, come back to bite you in the butt. That can even include your own work, when you have problems you have to double check every bit of the work or you can end up chasing your tail for way too long. Don't ask me how I know.

 

glad you got it .
3 weeks -
From April 6 post .
So suspect both and verify what you think you are hooking up is indeed what you are hooking up.

It's very hard to post every possible detailed way something could have been Efed up. Also, you said that "you" re did ALL of the wiring- but to us you left out the part about not touching the wires from bumper to light sockets.

 

Great news! good to see ya got er straightened out.