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EZ wiring harness....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cwatson1953, Feb 26, 2007.

  1. That thing is a ROYAL PITA to mount.
    It would be a breeze if they gave you the female part. I had to make one and it sucked. The tits have a goofy shape and profiles. That has to have a female mount base made for it, it's out there somewhere but I couldn't find which one.

    Every thing else was AOK with me though

    I'm guessing that is a rear fuse panel of of some late model production vehicle. They have a mount base somewhat like this in the truck. The boxes clip in and out and that would make that thing flat out awesome.
    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
    Jerrybigbird likes this.
  2. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

    I was kinda thinking I was missing some kind of cradle for it . I'm gonna call them on Monday. And I will let you know what they say. I was thinking of drilling a couple holes in the back of it but I'm hesitant. I hate mess in up new parts.
     
  3. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

    I may start my own thread on this later
     
  4. That would probably be a good idea. I got it from speedway, but it's the same unit. If you could figure out what the female comes from I'm sure lots of guys would appreciate it. I know I would have gladly thrown a few bucks at it to make mounting it easier.
    image.png
     
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  5. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,437

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    I don't remember the details, but I made a mounting plate from sheet metal without too much trouble. A couple of keyhole shaped holes along with a hole for the lug to snap into, if I remember right.

    Gary
     
  6. A thought from a professional. If you have the original wiring in the car and can gingerly remove it marking what the wires go to.

    Do so and mount these old wires on the largest sheet of plywood you can manage to support upright. Wrap the wires around a nail at convenient points. Then create a new wiring harness yourself. Measure lengths, colors, and gauges and get wire. Buy a fuse block plus a relay block, which is half again bigger than what you need.

    At the board, duplicate old with new wires adding a foot of wire at each nail and you will be so proud of what you have done. Learn how to crimp connectors, solder them, and heat shrink tube at this point and admire your handiwork. Plus you can take care of future situations including adding on to accommodate an expansion...all by yourself!

    This may scare some but not all...you can do it! Perhaps you weren't aware but harness houses have many plywood sheets at the ready ... it starts with one. Yours
     
  7. That's a great post Paul, thanks!

    I've done it myself for things much more complicated than a hotrod.
    The thing I find most troublesome though is procuring enough wire in enough colors in enough gauges to make a decent harness at a reasonable price. Any help there?
    Usually to get a decent price per foot on the wire a guy needs to buy big enough rolls to do ten harnesses. Or buy small quantities and pay 2-3x what the kit costs.

    On a scratch build I like to run some 3/8" climbers rope to simulate harness runs. Install the securing straps, mark and tape the break outs and branches then remove the ropes and use that for a harness template on the plywood or table. Works amazingly well. Bring it back to the car and install it.

    One of the nicest things about those kits is the marking on the wires for the noobs at wiring. It's like a security blanket.
     
  8. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

    Ya im a welder not an electrician im not really into building a harness, sounds expensive. This thing cost like 175$ shipped to my door. This will be my third one. So i know from experiance i can wire a old car truck or hot rod bumper to bumper for under $300. What may set me over that mark this time is the fact that i still need taillights, front signals, w washer motor, new starter relay etc etc. I really appreciate the help though guys.
     
  9. 40FORDPU
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,136

    40FORDPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Yelm, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    I've installed 3 EZ wiring kits, about to do my 4th (I'm far from an expert with wiring).
    I had no problems with any of them.
     
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  10. We had the Speedway version of that mini fuse panel; just took the back off and drilled holes thru it where the tabs were and machine screwed it to a small angle bracket. We centrally located the panel, and regrouped the wires to run out both sides of the panel.
    IMG_2963 (Small).jpg
     
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  11. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

    I havent had any problems with the 2 I'vedone either....seems they get a bad rap though.
     
  12. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

    I like that angel iron idea....it lays down real nice i will consider that... thank you
     
  13. I take my harness kits and lay them down on plywood, make a harness board like Paul mentioned. Use finishing nails instead of harness nails and run everything out in scale.
     
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  14. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

    I was gonna do that for sure just so i can move some stuff around and maybe get rid of some i dont need or want
     
  15. I removed 99.999% of my wiring except for the dash cluster & heater wiring. Map out your dash controls from both sides of the steering column, figure where you want the fuse panel too. I nailed my fuse panel to the board first thing. Figure where you want the main harness bundle.
     
  16. Jerrybigbird
    Joined: Oct 10, 2015
    Posts: 178

    Jerrybigbird
    Member
    from Montana

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