I decided to run a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear end in my 32 Plymouth. The pinion is off center with a 30" axle on one side adn a 27" axle on the other. I will have the long side cut down by 3" and use a factory size short axle to make both sides 27". I am going with the 96-01 to get disc brakes. I am also going with the 3.73 posi. I bought one at a local junk yard and talked the guy way down since it was pretty rusty. When I got it home and tore it apart I discovered it was in VERY bad shape behind the brake rotors. The E-brake actuators are pretty much gone and the ends of the axle tubes are very thin once I took off the rust scale. I have decided to buy another axle but this time get one from the south rather than another from here in NE Ohio. I found one in Texas that is in very good shape for a pretty low price as it is a 3.27 non-locking. I want to buy it and put my 3.73 locking setup in it. Is there any reason that I will have trouble changing the carrier and gears from the 3.27 non-locking over to the 3.73 locking? Messing around in differentials is new territory for me. I can do it, I just need to know of any deep holes I might step in. Please advise. Thanks, Brad
Main thing that is important is the side shims. The shims on the left side of the bearing must go in the left side on the new housing, same for the right.
its a simple swap. you will need a new pinion nut, seal and crush sleeve. I would also replace all the bearings while its apart. there is nothing complicated about the Ford 8.8.
Here is a pretty good thread on shortening the 8.8 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=793153
Thanks for the help. A couple more questions? If I use 2 factory lenght "short" axles, can I use a used one for the shortened side? I have read that the used axle will fail if turned the opposite way that is has been turned previously. Is it possible to rent a jack like I saw used to push out the axle tube that is to be shortened? What is the proper name for that jack? Thanks, Brad
If it has been exposed to extreme torque, and has already been damaged, then yes, that would be technically possible. No stock Ford product, equipped with an 8.8, produces enough torque to accomplish this. In other words, you will be fine. You are looking for a Port-a-power hydraulic ram.
I have used the Ford 8.8" in my last two builds and they are great replacements for the old 9", almost as strong and a lot cheaper. There is no reason to cut it down unless you have a width problem. The off center pinion will not effect how it works under your car. Ford offset the driveline to gain steering clearance under the hood. Some swaps have a narrow or low driveshaft tunnel that would necessitate centering the pinion but it really doesn't matter as far as the rear is concerned. It is straightforward swapping out the carrier assembly. Replace the usual bearings and seals and make sure both axles are either 31 or 28 spline.
The Ford 8.8" is basically a copy of the 12 bolt GM rearend, but with 31 spline axles (in later years) vs. 30 spline in the 12 bolt. I picked up a nice 3.73 Ford 8.8" to put under the rear of my '63 Falcon gasser, and was pleasantly surprised at how beefy they are, especially the axle shafts. As with any swap of carriers and gears, you need to know what you're doing when setting up the pinion depth, and the lash. Get it wrong and you wont get 50 miles before it self destructs. If you've never set up a rearend before, then I'd suggest you do a lot of reading on it first, and then decide if you want to pay someone, or do it yourself. Most shops in my area charge $100-$160 labor to set them up, and less if it's out of the car.
Your best bet for initial setup would be to use the shim under the pinion bearing on the 3.27 and put on the 3.73 pinion shaft your using since it's from the housing your using. Than from there get your backlash set .008 -.012" with the side shims. Pinion bearing preload spec changes with used or new bearings. New bearing spec is 15-29 in lbs of rotational torque. 6-15 with used. But since have to take off the big bearing to swap shims both should be replaced and new cups put in the housing.
There are no c-clip eliminators for the explorer 8.8 that I know of anyway, everything you see listed are for the smaller 28 spline axles for Mustang/fox bodies. The 31 spline axles are about .100 larger. Having one with disc brakes will help out some. Best thing to do which isn't cheap is to add 9" big bearing ends and new axles. But for the street it's not needed because most likely your not going to get enough traction to break an axle .
Pull a part is full of those things. Look at the door post sticker for a D4 axle code....this will be the 3:73 limited slip. Read the tag on the axle to verify. I would track one of these down before swapping centers back and forth, use the short tube on the axle you hve with the shorrt tube n the new and skip a few hours labor.
Thanks to all who responded to this post. I have bought another Explorer axle with the 3.73 Locking diff. I bought it from a auto recycler in Knoxville Tenn. It will arrive here next week. I spent a little more to have it shipped instead of buying one here in Ohio, but I wanted one that has not been assaulted by road salt for the last 15 years. Also at the same time, I ordered an additional RH axle shaft to use once I shorten the LH side.
Unless one is going for the disc brakes, it is fair to note, if you narrow an Explorer 8.8 drum brake rear end, on one side, you essentially have an early (1990-1992, 56-1/2 inches) Ranger 8.8 rear end. Yes, the tubes are smaller on the Ranger, and the axles are "just" 28-spline, but if that will fit your bill, there it is.
I'm running it offset. No difference being off to one side, than being uphill to the trans. Lots of guys using them as is with no problems, if the trans tunnel isn't an issue. Mine's high enough to not be an issue. I'll give it a good test with this:
There was a guy up on rt 82 in Broadview hts, He used to deal in 8.8 Rear ends. I bought one off him, Out of a T-bird. Disks, posi, I know he is well known around that area.
Yep. It was pretty easy, but I wasn't worried about width too much. I wanted the width so my Hurst 10" piecrust slicks would hang out a bit.
Ahh, I was wondering, as it has about 3" on the stock axle. I am about to put a Ranger 8.8 under my '60.
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