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Technical Exhaust Pipe Welding Clamps

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jaw22w, Dec 5, 2021.

  1. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,464

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    I had a thread awhile back about choosing quiet mufflers. Now I am getting ready to install said exhaust system, from the headers to rear of car, up and over the axle and straight out the back. All welded. The only slip joints will be at the mufflers, so I will be buttwelding (TIG) quite a few joints. I know that I saw a post in a thread somewhere on the HAMB where a fella had a clamp that looked like it should work pretty good. Seems like he had spots in the clamp where you could get it tacked together. I have searched trying to find it. It might have been a post by martystrode, maybe??? Probably a long shot, so let's hear how you guys clamp up 2 pieces of exhaust tubing for welding.


    Hey, last minute thought, how do you do that @martystrode thing so it comes up in red and alerts him. Never could figure that out.
     
  2. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 3,790

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Buy a Walker butt clamp, drill 3 - 1/2" holes around it at the center. Tack, then remove. Works great. I have several clamps but this works best and hold the tubes straight.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33979
     
    AHotRod and jaw22w like this.
  3. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,003

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I took two 2" hose clamps and spot welded three 1/2" strips of 18 gauge about 2" long, equally around the clamps. I can butt clamp two sections of pipe and tighten the clamps. The space between the clamps gives me plenty of room to tack the pipes together.
     
    jaw22w and Algoma56 like this.
  4. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 8,417

    Budget36
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You need to spell the name as it’s spelled, I/e @Marty Strode

    Or if you are close, suggestions pop up.
     
    jaw22w likes this.

  5. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,464

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    AAAHHHH HA! That's the problem. I can't spell worth a damn.
     
    Budget36 likes this.
  6. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 1,894

    6sally6
    Member

    Hot bout this cheap idea?!
    Get a small piece(maybe 2) of angle6-8" long....and two hose clamps. Make your fit up and lay the angle under the bottom and tighten the hose clamps down to hold it in place. Make 4 good tacks and move the gig (can I say that word?!!):eek: to the next one.
    For really nice work....flow Argon thru the exhaust pipe while you weld the joints. Purge the Oxygen out of the pipe.
    For best results cap off the end and leave a small hole so the Argon will have a pound or two of positive pressure inside the pipe.
    This is just for real 'anal' guyz!;)
    6sally6
     
  7. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,407

    earlymopar
    Member

    Cut a 1" long piece of your exhaust pipe, then cut the 1" long piece so it's a "C" shape that can be expanded or compressed as you want. Compress the "C" shape it so it just slides into the I.D. of your tubing. Leave 1/2" of the 1" length sticking out. Slide the mating tube onto the portion sticking out of the tube. Now your tubes are joined. Tack as needed then weld all-around. Much easier than clamps. This was a tip I learned 30 years ago from Schoenfeld Headers who at that time at least made many of the headers and exhaust systems for NASCAR.
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 19,925

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  9. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 3,790

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have one of these, too. But the Walker clamp works better for me....and costs less.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 19,925

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No doubt, but you need to buy one for every single size of tubing you work on.

    Since I work on 1.5, 1.625, 1.75, 1.875, 2, 2.125, 2.25, 2.375, and 2.5-inch, to duplicate what one $23 clamp does, I would need to $128 in Walker clamps.
     
    pitman and chevyfordman like this.
  11. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 3,790

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    True! I still use mine, mostly for clamping close to bends.
     
  12. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 717

    KenC
    Member

    I have a plan but haven't built it yet. upload_2021-12-5_16-38-40.jpeg Cut the jaw so that when closed on the loosest setting they allow your biggest pipe to fit. cut a couple of pieces of 1 or 1 1/2" angle iron about 2-3" long. Lay one on top of the pipe, hold the other under it and clamp in place with your trimmed vice grips. Adjust the jaw cut if needed. weld jaws to vice grip.

    I think this would work and be fast to install and remove. Someone try it and let me know. Or I will in a few months when I get to that point on my pickup exhaust.

    I have several pairs of these and some longer versions hanging on my tool wall, so no out of pocket when the time comes.
     
    Bugguts likes this.
  13. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,775

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do you remove the guide after tacking, or leave it in so you have a slight restriction in your exhaust system at every joint?
     
  14. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 504

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ive been using a few pairs of these C style welding locking pliers for exhaust/ tubing welding. Sits inside the jaws rather than on the tips of the pliers, keeps it nice and aligned and is hugely adjustable for tubing size. I also bought a couple pairs of the V pad pliers Gympy shared for a recent project. Both work well for me!
    164300_400x400.jpg
     
    mcsfabrication likes this.
  15. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,407

    earlymopar
    Member

    It's left in but with a 1/16" wall and a 1" length it doesn't create a restriction any more than a tube that has been "necked" to fit with another tube or a tube with severe bends.
     
  16. I made a pair from an old pair of vice grips below: Fits most exhaust pipe.
    20211205_150738.jpg

    They also sell size specific tube clamps that give you openings to tack the pipe together:
    This pic came from a product at Summit:
    sum-693325_xl.jpg
     
    40ragtopdown, rockable and mgtstumpy like this.
  17. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,098

    mgtstumpy
    Member

  18. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 6,732

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I am late to the party, but here is my simple, cheap solution. I take a used, or new, stainless hose clamp, tighten it down on a scrap piece of exhaust tubing, and drill 2 or 3 holes, using Harbor Freight step drill. The holes are around 3/8" to 7/16" in diameter. It makes clean holes, that give access to tack weld. All of the commercial ones I have seen are too long to clamp curved sections together, in the case of header building. Since they are mostly free, you can use multiple ones at the same time. IMG_4765.JPG IMG_4766.JPG IMG_4769.JPG
     
  19. ^^ I like your method, Marty! I had seen that before, but couldn't remember where.
     
  20. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 6,732

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I showed it on my 29 RPU build, and another time.
     
    fauj likes this.
  21. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,464

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    Yeah, that's what I was remembering. A nice thin clamp for when you are working right at tangent.
    Thanks for posting that again.
     
    fauj likes this.

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