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Ever had one that might be too rusty?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Psychoholic, May 9, 2009.

  1. Psychoholic
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 70

    Psychoholic
    Member

    I was cleaning out more of the interior of the buick today, trying to get ready to figure out which panel to do next. I took off the sill plate and what was underneath wasn't good. I took off the rubber strip around the door and the metal tab that went around it disentegrated in my hand as I moved it. The floors are just rotten as hell, the side posts inside the car are rotten as hell and this is my first car that requires actual metal work to make livable. I'm not giving up on it, but I am having to take a more objective look at what it is I'm doing and be real with myself and my abilities to see what the car is going to be.

    So I pose the question: When do you change directions on the car? What is the cut off point for you?
     
  2. T.W.Dustin
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 883

    T.W.Dustin
    Member

  3. Cutoff point = Am I going to recover what I have in it by selling it off in parts?
     
  4. bshepherd
    Joined: Apr 16, 2009
    Posts: 130

    bshepherd
    Member
    from michigan

    depends on how much work you want to do or how much it will cost you. Personally I think that there are very few not worth saving. Old tin is constantly gettin scrapped, so I say save as many as you can. Why change directions? It might just take you longer to achieve your goal.
     
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  5. Psychoholic
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 70

    Psychoholic
    Member

    I've attached some pics - and granted some will look at that and say 'man, that isn't shit!' and site some examples of worse (feel free actually, I'd love to see some inspiring stuff).

    I have a few things working against me here, for better or worse.

    A) I'm going this alone. I have so little time to enjoy stuff to myself that I only get to work on this on the weekends when I have time, and anybody with mad expertise isn't available to me when I'm not at work.

    B) I really am learning to weld from watching videos on youtube. I've never held a welder in my life until a few days ago. I've been reading a book on how to weld and I get many of the basics, but the actual applique of the technique is hard on 18 gauge metal. Some of my practice welds on thicker stock have been very pretty and quite strong, but I'm getting terrible penetration on the floor itself or I'm completely blowing through it.

    C) I'm not entirely sure I know what the right way to tack weld is.

    D) After looking at the 'metal shaping' thread and puruesing metalmeet.com, I see how i can create some of the tools I would need for better metal working and making the panels fit better from the get go - but when i was working on this earlier I was really just staring into an endless array of 'Bullocks! Is there anywhere to weld TO??'.
     

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  6. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,076

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    Might not be exactly what you are asking but I would recommend getting the car blasted first. Then you will really see what is left. Plus it will be easier to find good solid steel to weld to. It will save you a lot of time in the long run.
     
  7. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 6,272

    flynbrian48
    Member

    What kind of welder? 18ga is pretty easy with a cheapo wire welder, unless you're trying to do rusty,scaly old floors. The suggestion to blast is right on. Nothing is too far gone if you have patience and desire, but some stuff is more work than you may be willing to devote to it.
     
  8. This car is just too sweet to give up on. Step up and make her as solid as she looks.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. chadman117
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 23

    chadman117
    Member

    Why not get a vehicle that will be worth some money when it's done? It takes the same amount of effort to repair a 4-door buick as it would a 2-door.
     
  10. draggin breath
    Joined: Feb 5, 2006
    Posts: 511

    draggin breath
    Member

    That 4 door is a perfect car to save and develop metal working skills. If you are in it to enjoy the car a moredoor is perfect. People that badmouth the value of a 4 door are into cars for the money and they get educated in a hurry. Hone your skills.
     
  11. chadman117
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 23

    chadman117
    Member

    When a guy puts $25k into a 4-door and can only sell it for $10k, he gets educated in a hurry too;)
     
  12. wetatt4u
    Joined: Nov 4, 2006
    Posts: 2,147

    wetatt4u
    Member

    I really don't want to start any shit with ya chadman117<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_3903437", true); </SCRIPT> but whos to say that that car can't be worth 25 large?

    With the right time and effort it could be very nice ,no matter how many doors it has.....

    I know the old story about two doors vs four doors ,but some are cool either way...
     
  13. lostforawhile
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,160

    lostforawhile
    Member

    who says he wants to sell it? maby he wants to build it and enjoy driving it. if you are building it for yourself, what difference does it make how much is into it?
     
  14. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,003

    Squablow
    Member

    I'm of the opinion that "that ain't shit" and I've fixed way, way worse, but the welding is my favorite part of the job, I went to school for 2 years to learn welding and metal fab. Still, a very fixable car.

    I'm parting out a '52 and while I would assume the floors are junk, I may be able to provide some pieces for you if there's something you need.
     
  15. my 53's floor boards
     

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  16. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,555

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A little rust ain't gonna hurt ya. Cut it out and weld in some new stuff. It's just metal. You can't hurt it.

    Here is a before of my Merc.
    [​IMG]

    After.
    [​IMG]

    -Abone.
     
  17. kwmpa
    Joined: Mar 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,241

    kwmpa
    Member Emeritus
    from Pa

    stuff cant be to rusty...my model A was partly buried in mud someplace in Neb. I had to replace the lower 8" from tme doors back...i started working at a resto shop that does nash metropolitians...and then one I am working on now only has two pieces of original sheetmetal...one ft. fender and one of the doors...the rest was built from 3 other cars...oh yeah non of the panels on it are straight either...so I have a months worth of body work...but nothing is ever to rusty
     
  18. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,553

    ems customer service
    Member

    cars like this are fixed everyday, it is not bad just average. you like it go for it!!!
     
  19. rusty28a
    Joined: Jun 10, 2008
    Posts: 452

    rusty28a
    Member

    My advice is find a welding buddy. I have most of my work done by the husband of the girl I took to my prom (no she wasn't married back then...geesh). He is a professional who works cheap and usually barters. If you love it, it's worth it! Best of luck.
     
  20. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 17,464

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    floors are easy since they don't have to be perfect. looks like you are on your way. one thing... what does it look like from the bottom where you put in your patch? looks like an overlap. you don;t want there to be a place for water and crud to accumulate so you'll need to at least partially weld the underside and put some seam sealer on it.


    oh yeah, the line for the 4 door haters to kiss my butt starts on the left. single file please and wait your turn.
     
  21. wetatt4u
    Joined: Nov 4, 2006
    Posts: 2,147

    wetatt4u
    Member

    AMEN Brothers ,To all of you guys.........Thats what i'm talking about.......
     
  22. 39cent
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,569

    39cent
    Member
    from socal

    yeah had a duece roadster body an rolling chassis.with rusty windshiel frame, some small rust spots along bottom of the right hand doors, and cowl, 2 big holes for pontiac brakelites on rear and some other small sh---, and then sold it! baknthday, wotta dumb sh---!
     
  23. Dave K
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 344

    Dave K
    Member

    If it was mine I would cob the floor together as fast and easy as possible and just drive the wheels off it. No reason to get all crazy trying to make the under floor on a 4 door (not knocking 4 doors) look totally factory unless you just want to do it as a learning experience. Don't shy away from por 15, fiberglass etc.
     
  24. chadman117
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 23

    chadman117
    Member

    No worries, I just threw those numbers out as I have absolutely no clue what 4-door Buicks sell for vs 2-door Buicks. However, the point stands. I have seen FAR too many guys get into a 4-door because the barrier to entry is low, and they think they are going to hang onto it forever. It costs just as much to repair a 2-door as it does a 4-door, however the resale value will be much higher on the 2-door. That's not to say 4-doors can't turn out nice, obviously many people have restored/rodded 4-doors that look fabulous. However, given the choice, I would say 99% of buyers would purchase the 2-door over the 4-door at the same pricepoint. I'm not being critical of 4-doors, just being realistic.
     
  25. I say brace the body good & then proceed to cut away all the rust - taking pictures as you go. It won't be nearly as intimidating once the hideous crap is out of the picture.

    Then start replacing it all. What needs to happen should be easier to see without all the crap clouding your view.

    My Nova wagon HAD rusty floors. It now has nothing from the firewall to the back of the rear seat.... & I feel much better about it.

    JH
     
  26. vertible59
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,059

    vertible59
    Member

    exactly!!!:)
     
  27. Ramblur
    Joined: Jun 15, 2005
    Posts: 2,101

    Ramblur
    Member

    [​IMG]


    This is the driver side rocker panel from my 57 chevy delivery. Now the passenger side is fine, no issues at all. That leads me to believe a girl I
    dated in high school 30 some years ago that projectile puked all over me
    the door and the above shown rocker panel may be responsible for its
    current condition. I spoke to her about it at our last class reunion. She
    quickly blamed me for taking advantage ;) and changed the subject,
    offering nothing in the way of restitution.
    Personally,I think rust with history may be slightly easier to deal with,
    but hey,stay after it. Your making progress and if you can keep from
    taking it off the road for major work,your way ahead of the game and
    me...
     
  28. I agree with the blasting comments, Get it blasted, get it etched so that you have a decent dry clean base to work with and just start working you way through it. If you are at all doubtfull that it may mave on you - brace it up before you start cutting/welding etc.
    Some before and during shots of what keeps me in the wife's good books (her ranchwagon)
     

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  29. madwrencher
    Joined: Mar 2, 2007
    Posts: 77

    madwrencher
    Member
    from ohio

    When you get it on the road and someone asks you what year it is they will be checking it out and not caring how many doors it has. If you dig it thats all that matters.
     
  30. heatmiser
    Joined: May 6, 2009
    Posts: 253

    heatmiser
    Member
    from mia

    i think the biggest determining factor is how much you like the car...if you really love it, no amount of work will seem like too much... if its a "just for now" car, you may become discouraged... either way, rust repair is really only a little sheet metal and a lot of labor, so it won't cost that much, and you will get a lot better at it. i recently bought a rusty old pickup for that very reason.
     

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