Technical Enhancing EMS patch panels

I'm putting EMS patch panels on my 35 5W and have issues with the details. The body line is so much rounder at the edges as well as the lower step not being deep enough. I'm grateful for the product but wish it was of higher quality. Who has modified their EMS panels to improve the crispness of the body line? I have a motorized bead roller with all the dies that Eastwood sells. The other option is to install it as is and get on with the rest of the work.

 

I see what you're saying, I've had to do some altering to their patch panels, but they're good heavy metal to work with. From looking at your pictures, I'd section just that bottom feature line. I wouldn't use the entire patch.

 

I thought of that but I need access to the backside to hammer weld. That lower feature line isn't accessible. Using the whole patch my weld is easily accessible.

 

I've never understood why they make poor fitting panels. It seems that it would take the same amount of effort to make parts that fit.
So I make my own poor fitting panels instead of paying for their poor fitting panels.

 

Pete used to say, "a blind guy won't see it and a dumb one will think it has to be like that".
Could explain it? Or it could be that those were panels from the end of the stamping run and the dies had worn down? Which falls in line with what Pete said.

 

Pretty typical fit. Close but not quite. As said above, why bother to even make them if they aren't right?
I've given up on buying panels and just make them.

 

That sure is wonky difference. I guess it depends on your skills and level of good enough. Too bad you made a cash outlay to be disappointed. Personally, I hand and hammer form my own repair panels for three reasons. One is I enjoy the process , two I can make the panel to replicate the factory body line , curvature and crown because it’s all in front of me (the old and the new panel) and three I like to control what gauge of metal I want in a repair panel.

 

I assume you mean EMS patch panels. Out of all the patch panels out there, EMS is head and shoulders above the others. With that said.......I've never had an aftermarket patch panel that didn't need some form of modification. Even EMS panels!

 

Hmmm, if I didn't know any better - & I don't, I'd guess the molds to make the stampings on the patch panel were created from an oem(maybe) body line. Sorta looks like the bead is ~ 2 sheetmetal thicknesses too thick(tall), & no compensation for metal spring-back. ???
Marcus...

 

I also bought those EMS 35/36 Ford lower cowl panels and had to chop them up and section them to make them usable, very disappointing, only a slight improvement on starting from scratch.

 

EMS is probably one of the better companies that make this type of product, but I have had to "tweak" every panel I have gotten from them. I made a die from a piece of square stock and a reverse die from angle iron to "crisp" up their corners on a similar panel. A bead roller may also work. That and adding a strip at the bottom should make the panel usable.

 

@ems customer service is on here occasionally. Maybe he can offer some insight and suggestions.

 

I've never found a patch panel from any company that fit perfect. I've read that Ford had stamping dies created at different points in the model year, and they didn't match each other. So who knows if EMS made their dies from a different original than yours?

First off I wouldn't cut so far up, if there is a way to get at the back of the panel another way. Maybe remove an inner brace. Sandblast the rocker so you can see what good metal you can save.

 

EMS panels will fit and look good ??? ! After you run them through a pull max machine to sharpen the corners and shrink down the high crowns in the center and grind off the muffler coating on the metal.

 

I make my own.
For that particular shape, I’d have to make it in 2 pieces with my equipment. Would have to split the bead.

i generally hammer beads like that.

sometimes a bead roller. But to get the proper radius, ya still got to hammer them without a pulmax.

No store bought patches. Hand hammer work, some bead rolling and creative sheet metal brake work with some shrinking and stretching.

 

In the defense of EMS, most old car bodies are not consistent.
Not even side to side on the same car.

 

Looks like your original piece only needed the bottom or bead
First rule of patch panels. Only use what is needed. Leave as much of the original intact.

 

Buy the best panels that are available, which in most cases, is EMS. I have installed many panels brought to me by others in my learning curve years. All panels including factory need help, especially for the guys that want perfect everything. I had to learn how to do metal work myself, as I don't have the means to pay someone else to do it for me. Now, I do it in my retirement years for a little extra income.

So, my Ranchero project needed panels and the EMS panels are very nice and most important, they are 18 gauge. The lines around the wheel well needed crisping up, to match the factory panels. Some time with hammer and dolly, as well as a cold chisel that has all the sharp edges taken off it, and slightly rounded over edges.

The cold chisel works wonders to restore any body line if you have access to the back side of the panel. No pullmax or bead rollers needed. Better to do it by hand and by eye. And go lightly, carry a big stick if you really feel you need to, but just tap tap tap. If it looks good, and feels good, it is good.

My glass is half full. I'm glad EMS makes what they do. If you are doing your own work, buy the best panels available. If you are taking your project to someone else, and can't bear the idea of parting with some of your hard earned cash, buy the best panels available.

Good luck.

 

Hey, Anthony;
Do you have any vids out, to help those who can't get into your classes? .
Marcus...

 

No. But I was asked to teach adults after school
My son wanted me to start a YouTube channel.
I might when we build a floor for his Jeep.
I also have a set of rockers and floors to make for a Mercury

 

I'm no bodyman (not even close) and I like to make simple things harder.
I would just cut out the lower part of the rib and patch that (weld, grind, filler) and weld up the holes on the rib (with a patch or weld). That way at least the stock rib is still intact and your weld area is covered by the fender. After you cut out the lower piece, make a backing out of a cut open copper pipe (the same shape as the rib) and fix the holes on the rib, then weld in the lower patch. I don't have rollers, presses or a pullmax, but I have made a wooden buck when needed (for simple ribs, nothing compound). Then spray the crap out of the inside with rust paint.

 

Some hammers, a good pattern and a block of wood can do a lot

All hammers

 

Hey, Anthony:
Please let me know if you do the vids.
& wow!.
Marcus...

 

Yup, the feature line is toast. Way to thin to weld on. I was going to weld in the patch as is. Melvin said no one would notice and I believe he's correct but I would know so decided to make a play at making my own patch. Came acceptably close IMO. The lines are much crisper/sharp. Where I fell short is I forgot about putting some shape in the feature line as its flat. I think if I english wheel the feature line area then run it through the bead roller I'll get the curved profile I seek. Also though about adding crown using a couple radiused dies and a soft lower wheel. Gotta make some proper templates and find some 18ga. Now is time for food and beer .

 

I’ve hammered the radius in a bead rolled line before. Isn’t hard.
This simple tool does a great job crisping up bead rolled lines and radiusing flat areas in a bead or style line made on a roller or brake

 

Where can I buy that kit?

 

https://www.tonsco.com.tw/lead-more-bumping-tool-interchangeable-lmbt-20q11.html
A quick search doesn't throw up much in the way of retail. Or ebay.

 

I bought one from a tool truck. I think Corwell.

 

https://parts.philgilberthyundai.com.au/interchangeable-bumping-tools-part-no-ngjwag010141/

This might help. The chisel set is easy to find. This “bumping” version isn’t very easy
I think the same company makes both styles. The tool truck had both. Same boxes. Different bits. Could just be getting the name wrong.

 

I feel you on this with ems stuff.... the person in me says “im glad to have these” the professional in me gets frustrated... i used lower rear quarters on my54 because for the price i couldnt touch making them...
But the professional in me is also confused and snnoyed about why they made them 18 gauge when the cars arent 18 gauge, i mean, sure i can deal with the associated issues with welding thick to thin sheetmetal but i shouldnt haveto .. also the hot dipped zinc coating. Why. If it wasnt zinced itd still never rust out again, but also you cant do anything with it, no decent keying, welding, deoxidining or wash priming...
I found another brand that were better and more accurate.. the name escapes me now, its been a few years