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English wheel build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MP&C, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,854

    MP&C
    Member

    Well Fedex showed up yesterday with some English wheel parts, this is/was a Metal Ace weld kit that is now on it's second life.

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    It has been on Craiglist for awhile now, and as the slush fund didn't quite show an E-wheel purchase in the future, this little score will allow it to happen. From what the gentleman told me, his motorcycle business all but dried up a couple years ago, and with all the other equipment he wanted to save, he just didn't have room to keep his wheel, so he made it a kit once again and scrapped the frame.

    I'm using 4 x 6 x 1/4 tubing....

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    ....and base the frame on the Imperial Wheel design, but plan on radiusing the frame members for a smoother look.

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    As I'm not one for leaving well enough alone, I also had thoughts of cutting the lower anvil support just below the quick release to separate it from the adjuster, and shortening the adjuster for installing it at the top.

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    Looking ahead, I'm thinking the adjuster realistically only needs about 2-1/2" of travel to accomodate changing from an 8" upper wheel to a 3" tipping wheel, so if I can get twice that, about 5" or more of travel on the adjuster, I should be golden. It will be at least a couple weeks before I can start to get it all fabbed up, so I thought I'd throw all this out here, that any of the more "fluent" in English Wheels may offer their comment, insight, etc. Thanks, Robert
     
  2. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,964

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Robert,

    Whata great score! Did the Metal Ace Design start out as the John Glover?
    Any idea where they sourced the anvils?

    I like the idea of the upper adjuster...........every once in a whyle, you're wheelin a part with a tight crown, and klunk, there's that damned lower adjuster handle!

    Good luck, and thank's for the other posts, too!

    " Life ain't no Disney movie "
     
  3. Friend of mine built an English Wheel, with an upper adjuster.


    Said it was the stupidest thing he ever did.
     
  4. 1/2done
    Joined: Oct 29, 2006
    Posts: 580

    1/2done
    Member
    from Ohio

    Good score. If you've been talking to Kerry you should be on the right track. If you radius the frame make sure you weld in some support pins before you cut the tube, it has a tendency to collapse if you open up a side. Upper/lower adjuster is a personal preference. Lowers can get in the way since pieces tend to curve down when wheeling.
     
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  5. Why radius the frame?


    Just my opinion ... lots of work with absolutely no benefit. Kinda like putting suicide doors on a Sunfire .... what's the point.


    Sweet tool, just get it up and running an enjoy it, save the "smooth look" for the parts you will make with it. :)
     
  6. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,854

    MP&C
    Member


    Not sure on their original design as Glover. I stumbled across it on CL doing a 500 mile radius search on searchtempest. I was under the impression they made the anvils. ???

    Thanks for all the comments.
     
  7. Why cut the tubing all to pieces? Why don't you make two side plates and two caps to create a radius tube? Just my $.02.........
     
  8. nocoastsaint
    Joined: Jan 5, 2006
    Posts: 413

    nocoastsaint
    Member

    I dig the idea of the radiused look.
     
  9. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    Like Mine :D

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  10. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,007

    john worden
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from iowa

    The adjusting wheel is also called a kick wheel because it can be adjusted with your foot instead of letting go of the panel and adjusting with your hand. Worth considering I think.
     
  11. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    Too true, & each to their own, but also consider the fact you can roll tighter radiuses when there is no adjuster down below.

    Spend any time with a wheel & you'll find it is very rare that you adjust the presure on the "fly" (with the panel in the wheel) You remove the panel, check it & then change the presure if your not gaining enough height (but then again, most wheels do not have an over centre release like mine, so you don't stretch the edge of the panel on entry or need to wind it down (or up) with the panel in, so no supporting needed. I can remove the panel & replace it & continue to wheel with the same pressure as before. No winding up & down to put the panel in & out each time :D
    When your on a sizable panel, a helper is a must, so to adjust the pressure & supporting the panel is easy with 2 anyway.

    Like everyone, just my 2 cents worth ;)
    The more different ideas that crop up, the more options you have to work out what while be right for you.
    Good luck with the build :cool::cool:
     
  12. Larry G.
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 20

    Larry G.
    Member

    I'd like to see a pic of your over center release if you don't mind.
     
  13. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,854

    MP&C
    Member

    Larry, it will be a few days before I could take any other pics, it basically has a round rod going through as seen here, held in the "tube" with a snap ring....



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    and inside there is a flat machined about 1/3 through the rod to allow the square shank of the lower anvil to drop down. A 90 degree turn of the handle brings the flat up top for the anvil to drop, and down as shown (gravity working in your favor with handle weight) places the flat to the side, bringing the anvil back up to "operating" position.
     
  14. Tinbasher
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 274

    Tinbasher
    Member

    Remember you can't over build a E-Wheel. But keep it square to the centre-line and make sure the wheels are parallel to each other. The reasons the adjusters on the bottom is because its easier to kick with your foot when your two hands are full!!

    The Old TInbasher
     
  15. BCR
    Joined: Dec 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,258

    BCR
    Member

    Great taste, less filling, great taste, less filling..........

    My top adjuster works fine.

    I had the sides lazer cut cheaper than I could buy tubing. Also had the lower tool arm lazer cut. Bolt in bushings and Welded in ring rolled steel on top and bottom.

    Having a really stiff frame is only important if you are running contact flat anvils in my opinion. With true radius anvils it doesn't matter as much.

    If you have the tubing build it like Imperials wheels, they are some of the best ever made in my opinion.

    Mike
     

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  16. nocoastsaint
    Joined: Jan 5, 2006
    Posts: 413

    nocoastsaint
    Member

    Rods & Relics,

    Your wheel is crazy awesome. You didn't happen to take a whole mess of photos when you built it did you?
     
  17. Candy-Man
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,698

    Candy-Man
    Member

    This is a piece of art.... What an impressive looking english wheel...
     
  18. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    Errrrrrr No, sorry. I didn't :rolleyes:
     
  19. emiliedk
    Joined: Dec 29, 2004
    Posts: 614

    emiliedk
    Member
    from denmark

    looks good! ive had one with upper adjuster, but built my new wheel with foot operatet adjuster!
    here it is!
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    not to highjack your thread..but this is how we did it!
    good luck
    -palle
     
  20. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,114

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    some pretty artistic , english wheel s , i like em
     
  21. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,854

    MP&C
    Member

    Well I finally got some time to work on the wheel. I had been looking for a good way to make some accurate 22-1/2 degree angled cuts, and just didn't feel comfortable with the accuracy using the 4-1/2" grinder with cutoff wheels. The best thing I had to work with was my trusty 12" dewalt miter saw, but all the cold saw blades at my local welding supply were only good to about 1800-2000 rpm. Some web searches and phone calls finally put me in touch with Cut Technologies in Bellingham WA. They have a cold cut saw blade that would handle the rpm's and material, so he said. At a modest $160 price tag, I was keeping my fingers crossed.
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    After the first cut, the blade was still cold to the touch!

    Pieces mocked up.....

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    Also needed to trim the old frame from the "kit"

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    Should be large enough for most of everything I'll need it for....

    The 12" blade was just shy of cutting completely through the 4 x 6 tubing. And after all the cuts were complete, the blade had warmed up slightly, but still cool enough to grab it with your bare hand....

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    The planned cuts for tomorrow...

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  22. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 20,717

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work and I think it's fair to say that you guys have raised the bar as far as "built it myself" English wheel frames go.
     
  23. 35mastr
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,899

    35mastr
    Member
    from Norcal

    Nice score on the parts to build your E wheel. Metal Devil also makes blades that you can use for chop saws. I also have one in my skill saw. Can be purchased as most hardware stores.
     
  24. I find having the wheel at eye ball level easy to work with.The above wheel looks to low,just sothing to think about.
     
  25. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member


    Good stuff :cool::cool:

    Now hop to it :D

    Looking forward to the up date ;)
     
  26. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,854

    MP&C
    Member

    Here's the progress for today...

    All of the ends were chamfered to get better weld penetration, and also so I could grind the welds down for a flush look on the sides.

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  27. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    OK
    So you've been busy :eek::eek:

    Well done :cool::cool:
     
  28. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,854

    MP&C
    Member

    And now I'll have to take a break to get back to the HDL :D

    (honey do list)
     
  29. harrydude
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 96

    harrydude
    Member
    from ab

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